Starting Procedure for a Daytona

You will notice a change in the sound from the fuel pumps after 10 or 15 seconds, then pump the accelerator pedal 3 or 4 times. Then hold the accelerator pedal down maybe 1/4 of its travel and crank it. That will almost always do the trick. Don’t pump the accelerator when cranking.

 

That procedure is for a cold start. For a hot start, hold the accelerator to the floor and crank it. When it fires, back off the pedal.

 

you are sure the pump is delivering fuel?

 

The starting process that was given is perfect for a well maintained Daytona, and works well every time! If that process does not work, take a look into the carbs when someone presses the gas pedal; and if you do not see the fuel squirt into every throat; possibly the diaphram in them has failed. Easy to replace, just 4 screws.

 

I think the problem is, there is no fuel inside the carbs mainley because of the heat of the engine. So it takes some time for the pumps filling the carbs.

Anyone using the choke for starting a cold engine? It works fine but to me there is no need to do so.

 

That is exactly how I start my 365GT. When it is hot, I just don't need to pump the throttle more than once. If it has been driven in the last few days, it usually fires on the first crank.

 

One other tip, to save wear on the gearbox and bearing, clutch, put in neutral to start and don't depress the clutch.

Perry

 

Considering how much the average Daytona, or even some exceptional ones, are driven per year, I can't imagine that makes much difference?

 

While many of the offered "tips" appear good and working (at least for the individuals offering them ?), my limited experience with older vintage cars, including Daytonas, has made me believe most of them behave (a little or a lot) differently from each other at start up, even if same make/model, due to numerous variables, like the condition of their battery, engine, electrical, ignition & fuel system, fuel itself, etc..., so whenever I encounter these types of inquiries, I suggest the (new) owner takes time to learn how his/her new-to-him/-her car "behaves" best.

Just like driving any car (or having ***), best way to (truly) learn and (fully) enjoy the experience is to (carefully) try different approaches to feel which one is most rewarding.

In my experience, well sorted vintage cars, including Daytonas, can often be started, especially when warm, without even sitting in the car and by just reaching to ignition switch through an open window (or if an open car, over the door).

 

I have kept quiet on all this, but I have to make a comment on Perry's post. Starting a Daytona with the clutch engaged (let out) makes the starter, in addition to the engine, have to spin the clutch disc, clutch shaft, propshaft, CV joints, and transaxle input shaft through thick cold gear oil. All this adds significant load to the starter. No, always push in the clutch when starting, especially with a cold engine/transaxle. The proof of this is to notice how a cold start causes the engine to slow or sometimes even die when the clutch is let out and the engine has to pickup the load of all the above components. All that load is added to the starter's job if the clutch is not disengaged when starting. This applies to almost ALL cars (some British are the exception). Don't ask the starter to spin the gearbox input shaft and countershaft on a cold (or any) start. Pushing the clutch in on a start is also good safety advice, so you don't have the car jump forward if you accidently left the car in gear when starting.

 

^ from a pro, you can take that to the bank.
thanks Dyke

 

For my 1971 365 GTC/4 - Engine's never been out of the car. 150 psi compression. Doesn't smoke but is a little tired. Having driven several, and owned two, I agree with TTR. They all have their own personality. My current C4 has a high-torque starter, as I got tired of temporary fixes on the original magneti-marelli unit.

COLD - ignition on 7 or 8 seconds, couple of pumps with the gas pedal then held open maybe 1/4 of the way; always starts right up. If driven in the last week or so, just a couple of seconds with the fuel pumps and start it.
WARM - just turn the key.
HOT (like it gets here in Phoenix during the summer) - slightly open the throttle until it catches.
I've heard of people letting the fuel pumps run longer, however with the side draft carbs I don't care to do this. Obviously not a concern with a GTB/4.

 

Dyke,

I appreciate your post and info, and also respect your standing. I didn't take into consideration the transaxle and all the related mechanisms. I only refer to some cars thrust washers, and starting with the clutch in can cause wear on the thrust washers and crank. When pushing the clutch in it puts pressure on the crank, and the thrust washers. My TR6 is a case in point. As you mentioned, some British cars are the exception, maybe others.

Thanks,
Perry

 

To be completely fair, most British cars aren't going to start anyway ....








** I love British cars, but Italian car owners have only British cars to pick on with regard to reliability, so it's important to seize every opportunity

** My wife owned a TR6 when I first met her

 

??

 

Timo: You are exactly correct. Old age got me again. I was thinking about the CV joint propshaft in late 275s. My bad.

 

Perry: Your comment about the crankshaft thrust washers is correct, in that when the clutch is disengaged, the crankshaft is pushed forward. However, this adds very little additional load to the starter. If the crank end-play is set correctly, this creates very little wear over many miles and years. However, this is also why it is a good idea to not set for any length of time with the clutch depressed.

 

Correct, but on TR6's, it does cause wear over time, and the cranks and even block can be ruined.

Hey, hey, my 6 always starts, and I daily it when it's not raining or below 50. Top always down.

Perry