I've never actually seen the fan/ECU fuses in real life and it's hard to get a sense of their sizes. I'm assuming the colours equate to normal fuse values. Would you say that green fuse is oversized (maxi) and the brown one is normal sized? Or is the green one normal sized and the brown fuse mini? Of course, what is "normal" depends on what kind of fuses you've grown up with
Something didn't seem right on the quoted price of the so-called hedgehog so I went to eurospares, and indeed that sucker is $10,000 bucks US. What in the actual F___? That's nearly triple the cost of the entire evaporator unit! I guess I'll be sending mine in for repair if it ever takes (an expensive) dump.
It's their way of saying it's the last one on the planet. The factory may have stopped making them. Depending on the internal damage, they can be repaired. This is what some hedgehogs look like after self-destructing: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/148292134/ Image Unavailable, Please Login If yours is like this, new and second hand ones apper from time to time. New: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204093637755??&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=705-53470-19255-0&campid=5336838664&toolid=10001&customid=lgzqnggwcz000k3x007ht Second hand: There was even an entire evaporator unit (LHD car) available for $2000 (including the hedgehog) for sale. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141103334725?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=705-53470-19255-0&campid=5336838664&toolid=10001&customid=lgzqr5lv8f000k3x007ht One gentleman even bought a Lamborghini hedgehog and had technozen-electronics.co.uk/ combine the externals of a Ferrari unrepairable unit with the internals of the Lamborghini unit.
It might be a good idea to measure the current going to the fan on startup when the hedgehog harness is jumpered.
Just noticed that that new item has the wrong connectors. OEM connectors, according to the wiring diagrams and online photos, are rectangular. The advertisement does specify (in French) that the wiring has to be modified.
Thanks again Qavion, mwstewart, scottslaw, & Mike32 Re fuses I’ve checked the 30amp green and 7.5 brown fuses on the side of the evaporator, and they are good Image Unavailable, Please Login Here are the green and brown fuses Re blower motor I shorted the wires and the motor worked. Re ECU I pulled off one connector easily but the other I couldn’t get off. I think may be easy to undo the bracket and remove ECU completely. Would that be a good idea? Thanks again! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Also…… Voltage across hedgehog was 13.4 (car attached to ctek) When ignition on, I tried the controls to fan, air direction, and temp. Nothing with fan, others made noises from flaps moving Does that indicate ecu ok, and hedgehog stuffed? Cheers Andrew Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Do you have a picture of the plug? Is it the yellow one with a small black plastic clip saddled over the middle of the plug? I think you have to lever the black plastic part upwards. By upwards, I mean away from the plug/ECU. This is pic of the ECU on a 456M. Image Unavailable, Please Login If you're wondering why all the fasteners are rusty, the FChatter's car was a flood salvage vehicle.
Well, at this point, the hedgehog, ECU or maybe even the control panel/wiring is faulty. The electrical checks for the hedgehog can be a little complicated. Someone figured it out for the F355, but that has a different pinout. I've been told that if the power transistors fail in the hedgehog (on the F355), that the fan will go at full speed. Seems weird that the fan is not turning at all. If you use the "parts cannon" on this problem , it's going to get very expensive (especially if one part is causing the failure of another part). Do you have a meter which can handle 30 amps? I'd be curious to see what happens if you used the ammeter leads instead of the jumper when you test the fan.
Hi Qavion I don’t my little multimeter will handle that many amps[emoji15][emoji85][emoji95] Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Given that the hedgehog controls the speed and it is doing nothing, when the motor can be shorted to run, its a good bet you need to get it checked. You will end up with a modified unit to a better spec for about £75 plus postage
As long as the broken components are off the shelf, you should be ok. Whilst your hedgehog is in transit from the antipodes to the UK, you could always install a switch on the hedgehog connector jumper if the weather gets too hot yeah, 10 amps max. I don't know how much current the fan pulls at high speed.
The repair website states Please be aware that the usual reason for failure of the PWM Module is a faulty fan motor. The motor will either be drawing excessive current (siezed bearings) or is generating electrical spikes (worn brushes). The underlying fan motor fault MUST be rectified before refitting a repaired module! How do I work these out?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are the bearings noisy with the fan running? What current does the fan pull (max on startup)? You may need to borrow a beefier ammeter. I have a current tester which plugs into fuseholders, but I'm not sure it would squeeze into that area. Also, it's expensive. There are cheaper versions which go up to 20amps. They may survive. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165663700009? Electrical spikes?... Dunno. You may need a Cathode Ray Oscilloscope or similar for checking things like that. How did you go with the plug reset? For info, the control input from the ECU comes in on the blue and green/black wires Image Unavailable, Please Login
Put a size smaller fuse in and short motor, leave running for a while and see if keeps going at steady speed.. can you get hold of the fan shaft to see if shaft is tight or rough bearings. Also try moving in axial direction in case it is moving and hitting fan housing
From a generous donor (traded for a favour). Actually, they are Scud diagrams, but close enough. I did my usual colour conversion and de-bugging of the diagrams (but still some errors to be sorted).
I found a 430 workshop manual+ wiring diagrams on e bay uk for £130. Both about 50 mm thick copies. Might be worth a punt
Which ever fuse supplies the motor, if the motor spins up ok with no rattles or burning smell u should be good. When the brushes start to go the running can be a bit hit and miss on starting. If you can see the brushes, will they lift out or are they internal. Electrical cleaner is good to wash any dust away, then dry with a compressed air gun.
Traditionally, the fans are hard to get to. They are just in front of the front bulkhead. Image Unavailable, Please Login Can't see them in this image Image Unavailable, Please Login
Absolutely. Wish I had the free cash. I'm missing some of the engine diagrams. Hopefully the wiring diagrams aren't a hardcopy of the ones I have... mostly blurry, with dozens of errors. The missing diagrams are hard to describe. e.g. There is no diagram showing how the RH Motronic ECU is hooked up to items like the coolant temp sensor, the Secondary Air Solenoid Valve, the PDR10 relay, the crank sensor, etc. The seller would have to know how to read the diagrams.
