Coolant?

Paul: Go to the No-Rosion website and read all their information about coolants. All your questions will be answered from a VERY KNOWLEDGABLE and TRUSTWORTHY source.

 

Try this:

https://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm

 

I've been using conventional 50/50 mix in all vintage cars, including Daytonas I’ve maintained/serviced in past 40+ years. Replaced every 3-5 years (on those under my long term maintenance).
Engine oil + filter replacement once a year or every 2500 mi., whichever comes first.
Brake fluid + all related rubber components every 10 years, regardless of mileage.
Coolant & heater hoses, V-belts, etc, also every 10 years, regardless of mileage.
Tires, 6 year or less (I usually try to wear them out before 6 year DOM deadline).
So far, seems to have been working OK.

YMMV

Have not tried No-Rosion, but will likely do based on Dykes endorsement(?).

 

that is much too long. normaly all 2 years when you use DOT 4

 

I recently switched from 50/50 anti-freeze to HyperKuhl (a No-Rosion product). I used pure water (from reverse osmosis) per recommendation on the No-Rosion website. You can choose to believe me or not, but my 330 GTC was running up to 100C regularly on the 50/50 mixture. It hasn’t exceeded 90C since the switch. So far, I’m impressed.

 

Kevin: Yes, I would expect a reduction in water temps. We have been using their products for over 30 years. The No-Rosion products (and advice) are all very good. As an aside, if the car will not see real cold temps, a mix of 25/75 antifreeze to RO water will also help lower temps. NOTHING cools better than water.

 

I had no problem with the link Dyke provided.

 

I used to change brake fluid on most cars every 5 years or so, but haven’t experienced or seen any concerns on others with 10 year intervals.
Of course the climate here in Southern California isn’t very humid and the cars I’m referring to aren’t driven extensively (except my own), on track or very hard at all.
Only times I’ve seen problems with brake fluids during short service intervals have been with cars not driven regularly or at all.

 

Paul: Just try googling No-Rosion.

 

Here's an interesting note; Lloyd Buck, who took care of the Arturo Keller collection for some 25 years (which contained MANY Ferraris) started an experiment with all the different coolants, and their combinations. Lloyd now presides of the San Francisco Academy of Art Collection which until recently had 7 Duesenbergs, 40 Packards, and of course, a few Ferraris. He started by getting pieces of cast iron of what the engine blocks are made from, and aluminum as found in the head, etc... and sandwiched a copper gasket between them with I believe a SS bolt, all torqued the same. Over the years, the only coolant that stands way above all the others is Prestone 50/50 pre-mix!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

then you never havv driven your car very hard. I had meanwhile 6 times the problem that the brakefluid, mixed with water because of not changing the brakefluid got so warm, that the water gets gaseous and gas can not be compressed. so your foot when braking just fall with the pedal down and no, absolutely no braking effect. after about 10 minutes it was ok again but I was then only driving like a old grandma

 

Interesting, except I think the flow and temperature changes in active use could add some variations to these experiments.

 

Their website has a security issue.

Anyone that has strict security-requirements in their browser settings won't be able to access that website.

 

In 40+ years I've driven many of my cars "spiritedly", but not "very hard" and while I've experienced some "brake fades" on various occasions, I don't believe any were caused by moisture related issues.

About 15 years ago I completely lost ability to brake or slow a 1955 Chrysler on a downhill road up in the local mountains due to rear brake drum coming loose and sliding of the axle shaft hub. It was an interesting experience, to say the least and perhaps more so because just 10-15 minutes earlier I had a friendly uphill race with a some later model BMW on a very twisty road with severe drop-off cliffs...

 

Coolant, gentlemen. That’s what this thread is about. Perhaps we can get back on topic?

 

Water content brake fluid testers are cheap. You should buy one. While you are in a pretty dry area 10 years is still way too long. DOT did a test nationwide on their fleet and nowhere in the country did DOT4 stay at an acceptable water content level for that long. As I recall the "Wet" boiling point spec came at an average of 3 years nation wide. Different brands do absorb water at different rates. You should know what your brand is doing in your environment. In Texas I have many cars needing a change at 1 year, some 2 but never longer. It is a different story in Santa Fe. Boiling brake fluid happens pretty suddenly and is quite common in Daytonas and Boxers.

 

A big concern of mine is cavitation. Large pits in the liners that we used to just think was corrosion as it turns out is in reality from cavitation. Quite common in wet liner engines. It has become a big issue in modern diesels and several companies have specifically formulated their coolant to deal with it. Zerex GO5 is one. Its worse in the modern cars due to their higher compression. The traditional additives used to prevent it are very short lived and really lasted at most 2 years. For fleets renewal additives are available so you don't need to replace coolant every 2 years but not so available to us. Because of environmental concerns coolant companies are being pressured into making long lasting coolants. There is a recent chemistry development to make anti cavitation additives last up to 5 years. The only 2 I am aware of that use it are Shell Rotella ELC NF and one of the Caterpillar coolants, I think they have 2.

Also cooling system pressure plays a big part in cavitation. Higher pressure reduces or eliminates it. I do not propose putting on higher pressure caps but make sure they hold the pressure they are supposed to. In my shop its one of the most commonly replaced parts after oil filters.

I will have to read NoRosions site and come up to speed on their position on cavitation.

 

yes, you are right kevin

but I like to clarify my mistake anyway:

I mean of course gas can be compressed and that is the reason the brake pedal will fell down

 

Brian: No-Rosion has produced newsletters addressing cavitation. I would assume they are available on their website. Their "coolant additive" replaces and fortifies the additives in coolant/antifreeze. They recommend adding No-Rosion at one to two year intervals to extend conventional antifreeze life to five years. That is what we do here with the pre-1993 cars.

 

Thanks Dwight. I'll look for those.

I have found the various big players have far better information on their products in fleet operators information than in their OTC websites. One gave a coolant product life between testing and renewing additives as 300,000 miles or 2 years.