There are a few ways to approach the side latch issue and I applaud all that try to correct this design issue: 1. Put the side latches in the glove compartment and forget about them 2. Remove/reduce the pressure to the glass-latch by removing material on the latch 3. Remove/reduce the pressure to the glass-latch by adding a spacer between the latch and glass 4. Restore the window seals and reglue the latch I think we’re all in agreement that although (1) is the simplest, it isn’t what I’d call a repair. Solutions (2) and (3) are similar approaches where the root cause of the issue is reduced or eliminated by lowering the separation stresses. I and Tony differ about the pros and cons of each, but I think they are both effective solutions. Solution (4) is actually not a “correction” but essentially a repeat of what I consider a design flaw. I don’t know if you include replacing the side window as well, but in my window the latch area had some glass spalled off and repeating would probably lead to cracking or breakage of the window. I decided against the strange idea of just repeating the same approach as a better way. You won’t likely be able to use the latch without eventually breaking the latch bond or worse, breaking the window. To me, that’s just not a “correction” but a repetition of a flaw. I see you think our approaches are “Ad Hoc” and worse. Although you are entitled to your opinion, it’s not a good look to just denigrate without explaining the real solution along with pictures. If it continues to be just criticism at a perched distance without any real information to add, it is just being patronizing and not much more than name dropping, bloviating puffery.
Solution 4 just makes the situation worse with increased tension on the latch due to the new stiff and unseated seal - It takes a year or two before that new seal is relaxed just a little bit (Ask me how I know). I'm still enjoying my new latches and glass with drilled holes from DP and the old original glass and latches are safely stored for later re-installation by either myself or a potential new owner. I'm perfectly aware that this solution is unfit for most purists but I was eventually so frustrated over loosing the latch and de-laminating the glass that I gave up (I tried all thinkable glue's and spacer solutions). I drive my car nearly daily in the season and really like to use the window as HVAC when it gets hot. Best, Peter
a nice solution would be for ferrari classiche to admit the design flaw and recognize the drilled hole method as an update. the drilled hole design was used prior on other models so it is historically correct.
You left out approach #5... 5. Don't latch the vent window closed. The latch is not going to affect theft prevention and who drives their Dino in the rain anyway?
Correction to item 2 - Remove small amount of material from the plastic window striker plate., not the metal latch itself. Then leave it closed and never open it in case the latch falls off into the road at 70mph! Tony
Dyke, I believe so or at least given some general outlines, but probably only in reference to Daytonas, hence my cautious suggestion of “potential” when commenting on Dinos, since I haven’t tackled this issue on any of them.
Yes, I guess I missed a few. There’s 2a and 2B depending on whether you thin the latch or the plastic plate. A #5 for keeping the latch open, another for a drilled hole and I guess a #7 which would be an aftermarket bracket like the one that was described earlier in this thread. I agree with Peter that #4 is problematical. I just don’t get the unspecific #4 solution. You can reframe the window with new rubber and lessen the lartch forces, but that’s not a repair. Unless there is a specific description for that fix by some who as of yet only post vague super fixes of the “”underlying problem”, it is difficult to take this seriously. Since the original design is flawed, I don’t think we’re all keen on flocking to this unexplained magical solution.
All this, of course, brings us to a dilemma, if you will. Assuming Dinos have same/similar underlying cause/contributor I have confirmed Daytonas having, none of the proposed cures/fixes, including mine, are "as they left the factory", but I believe mine is at least closer to the originally intended design than all other suggested ones. If my above "assumption" is or would be correct for Dinos, I don't believe nor think I ever suggested "the original design" being necessarily flawed, just the execution of it.
Timo: The Dino has exactly the same problem as a Daytona. So how do you fix the Daytona Vent Window latch problem?
With all due respect Dyke, I know, just like everyone contributing to this thread knows, Dinos have the same problem, but having no hands-on experience with Dinos, I don't know for sure if they have same or similar underlying cause for it as Daytonas do. As for fixing it in Daytonas, I'll be happy to share outlines of my extensively developed/research, proprietary (and also fairly extensive) solution with you privately if needed or I can provide it as a service to anyone who may wish to send their car here. I'd be even willing take on a Dino, but it could possibly become even more "extensive", due to lack of previous experience/R & D...
Timo and I just had a very good conversation regarding his solution to the Vent Window Latch issue. I respect his privacy in developing his PERMANENT Solution. His efforts are complex, detailed, not-inexpensive and definitely not recommended for the average owner who just wants the latches to stop falling off the window. His solution does result in Vent Windows that function as the factory intended and leaves all the parts as factory built. He has put a great deal of time into this project and is to be commended.
Thank you Dyke for your kind comment and understanding. I just wish to add that my “solution” applies directly only to Daytonas since I haven’t had any opportunities to work on this problem in Dinos and yes, the complexity of the work makes it likely far beyond any average DYI individual or even average repair mechanic or “technician”.
What a mystery... And a pity we don't have a TTR outside the USA. And I can't send my dino to the USA just to fix the window latches. Yes, I tried...
A mystery indeed. From the description of the repair being done without anything that would be additive, I can only conclude that a better epoxy to glass/metal is used with temperature and pressure or a form of glass frit bonding is performed. That would require taking the window off, treating the surfaces and then heating the assembly with a frit glass compound that would form a stronger glass-metal bond. I am fine with the #2/#3 solutions since they are quite cost-effective and solidly work. Sending a whole car seems over-the-top expensive for this specific repair.
This ^ has essentially nothing to do with my solution, but to expand on it a little, mine is not some quick & easy 'Band-Aid" for DYI owners or mechanics. As I (and Dyke, a.k.a DRW46) mentioned, mine is far beyond capabilities and likely pocket books of "average" owners, not to mention way too complex and involved to even try to detail on some internet forum (and possibly get blamed when someone without inherent understanding and ability to perform the entire process properly would fail and possibly screw up their own car. Who needs that headache !?!). The bottom line is that I really don't care how anyone fixes their car(s). I'm just pointing out that, assuming the root cause in Dinos is same as in Daytonas, it can likely be cured without "Band-Aids", just not necessarily easily or inexpensively. That's all.
Another way to put this: I can probably restore an entire Dino or just about any car, bumper-to-bumper, mostly by myself (and have done numerous, just not Dinos). If you believe you can too, you can then probably figure out how I would approach it in a Dino (or have done in Daytonas) and suddenly, it wouldn't seem like a mystery at all. Or you can always ask advise from the factory and/or have their experts or contractors to fix it for you.
Spectacular. Us mere mortals, the regular Dino owners could never hope to understand this brilliance. It’s just so beyond us that it must remain a mystery. Got it. As Edward said, Oy Veh…
As I said, not a mystery and I assume (perhaps incorrectly) anyone with more than my 8th grade drop-out level education and some experience working on automobiles should be able to figure it out ... ... or if not, consult the factory, as they made the car in the first place and presumably still have access to best engineers and highly skilled craftsmen combined with 75 years of experience manufacturing exotic cars and therefor should be able provide a far better solutions I've come with. I've had to work too hard all my life to just give my "trade secrets" away to someone I don't even know (and in case you haven't noticed, there isn't many experienced/skilled "professionals" here sharing theirs either).
My interest was purely academic and at this point exhausted. I am not prepared to spend any more thought on an undisclosed approach that promises a marginal improvement in authenticity, yet seems to take a lot of energy, money, and effort to make it happen. This is a forum to share ideas, less so to tell others how another way is better but will not be disclosed.
This is ridiculous!!! There are 3 ways to fix the problem. 1. Get glass with a hole in it. Works perfectly and no modifications to your precious latch. 2. Remove a small bit of material from the replaceable latch or the replaceable plastic striker, which removes the pressure. Works perfectly. 3. Use UV cured glue works better than nothing but will remove a layer of glass when it eventually pops off. There is no undisclosed magic solution that only special gifted people know about and keep it to themselves because they have nothing but like to see them as the center of attention for a moment. JEEEZ it's a frigging latch!
Example of Jon’s no.3 option and eventual consequence. I was in the car when this one occurred. Not even using the quarter light, it just pinged off taking a glass divot with it. Didn’t half make me jump. I had previously reduced the plastic catch/striker plate as per Jon’s No. 2, but obviously not by enough. The catch lives in the glove box along with the other side one that I inherited with the car ~20 years ago. Suppose I should get around to cleaning the rest of the glue off, or replace with a spare quarter light glass along with a more aggressive option no. 2… Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login
