Which are the best Spark Plugs for a Daytona? Euro version, if that is an issue. Thank you. Regards, Alberto
I'm running NGK BP6ES as Edward showed above in my Euro Daytona. I also have a set of NGK BPR6EIX which is the Iridium equivalent I believe but have never used them. Bought them when I had a tuff time finding the BP6ES.
BP6ES plugs are now pretty much extinct from NGK. However, BPR6ES (R=resistor) are available and work fine.
Terry: Yes, generally all the 1950-75 Ferraris can run well with the NGK BPR6ES plugs. Some people are beginning to try BPR5ES (one range hotter) with good results in cars that are not driven hard at all. The factory plugs equated to BPR7ES, and in some cases BPR8ES, but Ferrari assumed the cars would be run hard, especially in Europe and they didn't want to warranty engines due to burned pistons. There are a series of cylinder heads in the Lusso range (about #5000) that have problems closing up the plug gaps when the plugs are tightened in the head. This is due to a casting shift causing the "well" the plug sets in to not be straight, so the side electrode hits the wall of the well as the plug is screwed in and closes up the gap. People have complained about the plug hitting the piston, but that is not the problem.
I had the same problem on a GTE. Used B7ES instead of BP7ES because ground electrode is recesed compared to BP7ES. Worked fine. I want to say thanks: I learned so much from Dyke (DWR46) and he always is my „go to“ if I need advice! Thanks Dyke for sharing your extensive knowledge as you do! That is very generous and you do not see this so often in todays world. I really appreciate this forum and all the knowledge here. There is nothing comparable in Europe.
Christopher: It is my pleasure to try to share some of what I have learned over many years. I have particularly enjoyed working with you because you are dedicated to your cars, and work hard to understand them. A long time ago in a galaxy far far away. there were people who helped me as I struggled to repair my first Ferraris and this a way to thank them by paying it forward.
I've seen 3 Daytona's (1 competizione) using a pair of MSD boxes. You can run 7s or probably 8s and have no fouling issues whatsoever, likely ever.
Ferraripilot: Yes, a MSD style ignition system will provide adequate voltage to fire a cold plug like a 7 or 8. However, there is nothing to be gained from doing this with a street driven car. Just because the plug does not foul, does not mean the cylinder is achieving the most complete combustion and making the most power. We do run 7 or 8 heat range in the 250LM and GTO's in vintage racing, but these are with dyno tuned carburetion and lots of on-throttle time. In these cases the colder plugs do help prevent burned pistons. The two most important things I have learned in over 40 years of dyno testing engines is everybody tends to run too cold a spark plug and most engines don't need as much fuel as you think (leaner jetting).
they like to be on the safe side and may take no risk. but also it depends at what altitude level you drive. also if you go racing or cruising
Every street driven carbureted Italian car in general simply works better with a great ignition system. Carburetors provide a thick and dirty mixture, especially at lower rpm, which loads up the plugs, hence a great ignition system resolves this. Plug heat range should still be correct though. I am not sure I understand your statement about the plug not fouling. The mixture either ignites or it doesn't. The mixture is either optimal or it isn't, and often times the most optimal mix (13:1 or just under) is a bit thick and tends to foul plugs if not driven hard. This is resolved by a stronger ignition system which makes for a stronger flame kernel and faster more powerful overall ignition. This has been dyno tested and proven time and time again. Porsche knew this hence why all their 911s came with CD ignition from Bosch. As far as dyno work is concerned, you and I can probably agree on this. Not sure what your experience has been, but the sweet spot for these engines is being just under 13:1 air fuel at WOT in a 4th gear pull, or on engine dyno. There is undoubtedly a 2-3% power difference if the mix is in the 14.5:1 range, not to mention the engine runs measurably hotter with such lean mixtures.
