355 Only starts on the 2nd try when cold

Same issue here… curious on the responses.

 

Key on and leave it there for 10 seconds allowing the fuel pump to build pressure.
Key start and it should fire.

 

I'll wager MAF is out of spec, someone changed the pot for some reason on the past. It needs to measure proper CO2 and HC levels and adjusted per bank from the manifold taps. Dealer should be able to do it. That' my guess.

 

My 348 is 2.7 and has 2 maf's. Runs great. Never had an issue. That EXACT same problem happened when I set the MAF's to 383 spec before I knew better (and did not record the prior numbers to put it back) which it turns out is not really a spec more urban legend, the actuall value is north or south of that somewhere 383 is sort of the starting point. Problem started then, worse when cold too. I have checked other cars known to not be changed and they were 379-385 range with both banks different.

On mine after the rebuild all bets are off anyhow it needed to be redone since it has new valves etc. If I adjust OHM's down the problem gets worse. If I adjust it up it goes away but smells rich, don't want to burn cats up so I turn down MAF ohm both to same 185 where its now exactly like you say. Only way to do it is properly is with factory equipment or more experience and tools than I have looking at the manual procedure.

So my setting is likely making one bank lean one rich at cold start and hence the problem. When engine is warm and its in closed loop no such issue.

 

Bob, if you reset the battery and the car starts first time, if you don’t let the car get up to temperature and leave the car for a day, does the car start instantly?

In some respects it seems like the car is learning bad habits (say, from faulty sensors) as the battery reset clears the bad habit, but on the other hand, the problem clears instantly on the second crank. I can’t see the logic in this.

Are you doing anything differently on the second crank, like pushing the accelerator pedal?

If the car detecting a problem with one of the sensors and reconfiguring itself to use alternate sensors, why does it wait for the second crank to reconfigure.

 

This happens on my car (2.7). I've always suspected that the fuel pressure regulators have failed and the car is having a hard time building up pressure. That does not explain it starting on the second attempt. But it could have a hard time building pressure via other means like the boots for the fuel pumps are likely disintegrated and is clogging the screens which is preventing it building up pressure. I've also theorized the flywheel may need to be regreased- that it thinks that the car is misfiring due to slight changes in rotation due to unequal weight on the flywheel. I think that is a longshot though. None of these theories support the fact that on the second try it starts right up.

Until I can get it on a lift and inspect everything it will remain a mystery. But this thread is a good start and its nice to know that I'm not alone.

Also it is worth noting that this car has no problem starting hot.

 

Wasn't there a thread about this years ago and the conscientious about 1/2 the people responding said it take 2 tries?

With my 2.7 car it's variable depending on how long it sits. If it sits for a week, probably fires and dies on first try. 2nd try, it runs as soon as I hit the key. But sometime it starts 1st try. If it sits overnight most likely it will fire right up. But even that sometimes it takes a 2nd shot.

Frankly, I never gave it much though. Compared to my 308...... I mean, these are 28 and 38 year old Ferraris. That the run at all is a miracle.

By the way, I don't believe turning on the ignition and waiting a few seconds will do anything re fuel pressure. As I recall, the fuel pump will not run unless the ECU senses the engine turning over from the crank sensor signal.

Also, no adjustment on a 355 MAF.

 

Mine started first bump every time until changed the maf setting not knowing better. Since then never been right. Actually I can turn the key first time to spin the motor and stop it before it tries to fire like your hand slipped off the key, second time right after it, it fires right up. If I let it fire first bump it stumbles a bit before it catches. Do the double bump to start and it fires up like it's on the dealer lot new.

100% not fuel pumps, FPR or injectors, crank sensors, cam sensor, coils, igniters, IAC to TPS, those are all new and adjusted per the manual and the problem started before I changed all those, none of those fixed it, air bypass screw also affects it I noticed, had to open mine even after balancing to get it to start better.

It's a super fine line to get the AF dead nuts right to fire up clean and reliable and that maf setting g is key few fractions of ohm off either direction and it's no dice or so it seems.

 

I have re done the fuel tank rubbers, and re greased the flywheel. Made no change.

My car when driven regularly, and having gone through it almost entirely most times will start first attempt but it sometimes reverts to the behavior the OP and many others with 2.7 experience. I just turn the key back and on again and it will fire up. Strange for sure but having changed pretty much everything not sure it can be solved.

The 5.2 doesn’t do this. I think it’s related to the motronic system somehow and not car specific.

 

Funny enough i had this problem prior to changing all the fuel lines.

 

The 5.2 has the “one shot” priming system. When the ignition is turned on, the pump primes for a few seconds. Thereafter, only cranking will turn on the pump.

I just assumed that the 2.7 pump ran continuously. Is there no sound from the pumps on the 2.7 with just the key on? Is the 348 the same?

On the 5.2 the pump sound is soft and it competes with the sound of the IAC, but you do notice when it turns off.

 

The 2.7 does not energize pumps until key turned to run not just on with dash lights on.

 

It would be interesting to try jumping the fuel pump relays to see if you get a start straight away.

 

I have this same issue as well.