355 - Major Service DIY | FerrariChat

355 Major Service DIY

Discussion in '348/355' started by Johnnieblack115, Sep 27, 2023.

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  1. Johnnieblack115

    Johnnieblack115 Karting

    Nov 18, 2022
    220
    Massachusetts
    Full Name:
    Jonathan Walker
    I’m trying to strategize the most cost effective/ space efficient solution for tackling the belt service this winter. Has anybody successfully gotten the engine out without using a scissor or two post lift? Aka something like a floor jack and stands/ ramps? I know it’s not the ideal way to go about it but I’m space challenged and would like to avoid dropping $2000 on a lift before I even begin the service.

    In the meantime I’m looking for friends of friends in the SE Mass area that may have a lift I could use but coming up short in this area at the moment


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  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,082
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Something I have never read here so I'll say it here.The subframe you are removing is a very large piece of the structure of the rear of the car. Once it is out the rear is pretty fragile. Only 1 small square tube on each side supporting the bodywork. Be careful not to bend it. Many have. Don't lean on the rear admiring the big empty hole.
     
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  3. Johnnieblack115

    Johnnieblack115 Karting

    Nov 18, 2022
    220
    Massachusetts
    Full Name:
    Jonathan Walker
    There may be a double entendres in there but message received haha. I wonder if it would be worth fabbing up some temp structural reinforcement in place of the missing subframe


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  4. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,082
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Its not that fragile. Just be aware and dont let anyone sit on it.
     
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  5. fboutlaw

    fboutlaw Formula Junior

    Dec 3, 2014
    260
    Woodside, CA
    You need to lift the F355 approximately this high to remove the engine and subframe. I have it sitting on a harbor freight pneumatic wheely cart.

    If you could dig a big enough hole under the vehicle you might be able to do it, but good luck without some form of real lifting equipment.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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  6. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

    Feb 17, 2020
    568
    New Zealand
    Full Name:
    Kevin Bennett
    I would not recommend this at all, you need to lift the car off the sub-frame as per the picture in the last post, the lift gives a much more controlled environment for this exercise.
    Its not impossible on stands and jacks, but definitely a very sketchy way to do it, no room for error. Doing it on a lift is safer, easier, no brainer.
    I bought a scissor lift to do my 348 and I also now use the lift for all sort of things, even cleaning the car, also use it for servicing my daily driver and my partners cars....
    Its not a waste of money if you do a lot of work on cars...
     
  7. Johnnieblack115

    Johnnieblack115 Karting

    Nov 18, 2022
    220
    Massachusetts
    Full Name:
    Jonathan Walker
    Completely agree, I’m just trying to make this whole thing as palatable as possible with the wife (a fools errand, I know).

    This guy inspired me:




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  8. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    28,962
    socal
    We call jackstands on the rear to lift the car and a dolly for the engine and subframe the "reiner method." He was the 1st on Fchat to do it that way. Many many motors have been pulled using this method. Search there are many threads here on that method. Using a 2 post lift is much better but sometimes people have to improvise.
     
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  9. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

    Feb 17, 2020
    568
    New Zealand
    Full Name:
    Kevin Bennett
    It can be done, I wouldn't do it that way, but as long as you know what the ins and outs are, it wont hurt anything...
    The wife, tell her its going to be safer, take less time and make less mess........
     
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  10. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,082
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Tell her the cost of a hoist is just a small percentage of the money being saved by doing it at home. It is also a garage space multiplier.


    Taking it out is the easy part. putting it back in you'll wish you had a hoist. Its a one man job with a hoist.
     
  11. PaulK

    PaulK F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 24, 2004
    4,781
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    Paul
    If you buy a lift and put it in, it will be paying dividends for years.
     
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  12. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,547
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
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  13. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,082
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    For servicing a 4 post is a small step better than no hoist at all.
     
  14. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,547
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Yes, I agree but ... that is all I got in the garage.
     
  15. bobzdar

    bobzdar F1 Veteran

    Sep 22, 2008
    6,892
    Richmond
    Full Name:
    Pete
  16. cactussed

    cactussed Formula Junior

    Mar 12, 2008
    286
    all you need is 2 low profile trolley jacks and a low engine dolly. There's detailed how-to guides using the method and its v straight forward.
    I've done it loads of times.
    For the dolly, I used 2 pieces of 18mm ply, glued and screwed together and then 4 heavy duty castor wheels bolted through the base. The picture above is a fair example.
    A lift is easier, but by no means necessary.
     
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  17. cactussed

    cactussed Formula Junior

    Mar 12, 2008
    286
    #17 cactussed, Sep 28, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2023
    Just follow this guide. It's really not rocket science.
    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/355-major-part-1-how-to-drop-the-engine.53351/

    Plus. you can then see / access all the other bits that are worthwhile doing.

    From experience, I found the hardest parts on removal can be the hard lines between engine and firewall (needs 2 spanners and sometimes a lot of grip strength) and threading through the bloody ECU cable via a slot which is 0.0000005mm wider than the ECU plug... a poor bit of design. Oh and 2-3 of the upper front cradle bolts aren't exactly easy access either, esp the ones near the oil tank.

    On reassembly, take your time and go slowly. again, the bit I struggle with is feeding the ECU cable back over the tank and through the hole, plus sliding the rubber coolant pipes on whilst lowering the body over the engine. Its not hard, just fiddly.

    I found it a really rewarding and satisfying experience.

    I'm assuming all belts and bearings are the bare minimum.
    Whilst there, it's worth replacing old rubber coolant hoses with silicone and probably water pump if it's never been done. Rads too if they look dodgy.
    If you're not planning to pop the cam covers off, get things to TDC and then mark and clamp the cams, otherwise just go off the tdc timing marks on the cams.
    The crank bolt can be hard to remove without a decent impact gun so be aware. You can hold it steady through the clutch/flywheel end if needed.
    I'd advise you to get some new A/C o-rings for reassembly if they've never been changed and check things like condition of all the rubber / plastic hoses, engine / gearbox mounts etc etc. And new jubilee clamps as well. The usual stuff on a 30yo car.

    Patience, and if in doubt, ask here. There's LOADS of kind, knowledgeable and helpful people on these forums who've given me support over the past nearly 20 years I've been running my one.

    You can do it! And you'll learn loads about the car which I find part of the enjoyment of ownership.
     
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  18. cactussed

    cactussed Formula Junior

    Mar 12, 2008
    286
    Oh, and lastly.
    NEVER, EVER lift the rear of the car by using the 2 jacking points under the Pininfarina badge simultaneously. The whole weight of the drivetrain is put through the body which is v bad. Always lift the back by jacking under the structural corners of the engine cradle / subframe.
    Only when the engine is disconnected and you're ready to lift the body off do you THEN lift at the rear jacking points. Very slowly and carefully, so as not to test the breaking strength of whatever you may have forgotten to disconnect.
     
  19. cactussed

    cactussed Formula Junior

    Mar 12, 2008
    286
    And lastly lastly.
    I like to box/bag and label everything I remove so that come cleaning / replacing / reassembly, I know where it all is and it's labelled and in order. It sounds pedantic, but I've found it useful.

    Take LOADS of photos and keep receipts for everything. Partly for service history, partly for personal reference and partly in case you forget what goes where (it happens). A stamp in a book is all well and good, but nothing beats a receipt and a time stamped picture of the work actually being done.
     
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  20. Johnnieblack115

    Johnnieblack115 Karting

    Nov 18, 2022
    220
    Massachusetts
    Full Name:
    Jonathan Walker
    Top marks sir, awesome breakdown! I’ve jacked the car up from all combinations of jack points in the past but haven’t noticed anything come out of alignment. Does jacking from the rear body jack points always cause stress issues or is it more of an abundance of mechanical sympathy to avoid using them?

    When I did my oil change last winter I had the car up on all four jack points. Then when hunting for a leak I used the rear subframe points


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  21. bobzdar

    bobzdar F1 Veteran

    Sep 22, 2008
    6,892
    Richmond
    Full Name:
    Pete

    I think it's fine to use them one at a time (ie jack one side up, support the engine cradle with stands on that side, then do the other). Don't jack it up on both sides at once with the engine attached (not sure why you'd do that, but if you're doing the jack stand approach that's how you raise the body above the engine once the cradle is unbolted).
     
  22. Johnnieblack115

    Johnnieblack115 Karting

    Nov 18, 2022
    220
    Massachusetts
    Full Name:
    Jonathan Walker
    I used both the rear frame points just before the wheels the first time I lifted the car based on StickyRx’s instructions I figured all the points on the diagram were good to go. Halfway through that job I found through this forum that the engine subframe is the preferred rear jack solution.


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  23. huzilulu

    huzilulu Formula Junior

    Apr 20, 2011
    340
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Huzi Husain
    How did you get the engine out on a 4 post with the car in the middle of the lift? Or did you roll it back after removing the engine with the rear hanging off the back?
     
  24. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,547
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Hanged the rear over the back of the lift, dropped the engine, rolled the car back onto the lift, raised the lift, and "winched" the engine / subframe up the driveway incline and under the lift.
    Do you see that electric winch down low on the forward legs of the 4 post?
     

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