Euro model front indicator/parking light cross slot screws

Me too.
Thank you.

 

Believe it or not, you could probably scan and then 3D-print that in either bronze or stainless (both of which you could then plate); I have done some stuff like that successfully.

Expensive, however; probably something like $50US per screw to fab, and you need a very fancy scanner (and of course, an original) to get a good copy.

 

Appears to be sort of the adjusting screw with tapered grtinded point can be made?

This fastener is oddly made. Why the self tapped point but 4mm machine threads?
Which one are u? LOL

https://classicalfa.com/lt096-headlight-adjusting-screw/

 

It’s not self tapping. I would call it guided witch makes sense for the purpose. Nice screw that would work much better than the chromed screws that tend to corrode very fast when used in that exposed location. I’m in for 4.

best, Peter

 

Those are called either a Narrow Cheese Head or Fillister Head screw and are available:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/rounded-head-screws~/narrow-cheese-head-phillips-screws/

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/rounded-head-screws~/high-profile-narrow-fillister-head-phillips-screws/

For a PERFECT match you need to do a little machining but they are very close to perfect out of the box. A polish with polishing paste while spinning them in a drill will give you a perfect chrome finish look.

 

Made a comparison of the ones Rob found, to the original ones. The visible part is very similar. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Great find Rob!
Except, the taller ones only are in inch thread.
The slightly lower ones are metric. They can be raised with clear plastic washers.

Regards, Alberto

 

I hink its feasible, Matthias. It would be easy to 3D-print but one would not like the surface of areas that aren't reachable for grinding or polishing, so I have to see if our CNC guy can mill the phillips head. Will finalize the desgin, enquire and report back.

 

I tried to locate these screws a few years ago but was unsuccessful.

Beware they are not normal pan head machine screws, the head diameter is much smaller at 6.85mm (most are standard machine screws at 8mm dia. and dont fit inside the lens cover hole)
Also 12mm is too short and greatly depends on where the lens housing is mounted. I would make them 20mm overall length instead of 14mm. Better to be too long than too short!!

Tony

 

I have the original ones I found some time ago and are 14.52mm long (overall) but they are a tad to short, maybe if i moved the actual housing forward they may be OK. Its a lot of messing around so am looking for some a bit longer.

 

These are available in stainless in various lengths: https://accu-components.com/us/pozi-pan-head-screws/9297-SPP-M4-12-A2





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Found this as well: https://everhardwarestore.com/product/m4-0-7-din-7985-phillips-drive-pan-head


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Beware - the hole in the lens cover is just over 6mm dia so these are no good unfortunately. The head dia must be 6mm max otherwise they will protrude above the lens cover.

 

Seems these might work if you adjust them a bit with a lathe.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832675872635.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

 

With a lathe handy to take down a fraction of a mm from the diameter of the head these work very well:

https://www.mcmaster.com/91737A127/

I know the first thing people will say is that those are imperial and the originals are metric. This is entirely true but the 8-32 thread is very close to the M4 and because it is threading into a cast aluminum thread that is far from precise and it is not a critical fastener with specific torque, most people will find that the 8-32 will thread right in without force and you would never know the difference. Given how cheap this option is and how close the screws are it is worth trying them out.

 

Rob, worthy solution on paper but in reality the pitch is close but not close enough, the unc bolt will lock up within a few mm and potentially strip the threads very quickly without to much effort.

I'd stick with the M4 machine screw, plenty on the market but the head diameter is the biggest stumbling block.

 

If the pitch really is pretty close, one might be able to re-cut the threads with an M4 die, so that they match the needed pitch; still, reducing the head might be easier (if it is just a couple of screws to do, putting the screw in a drill (drill grips the shaft of the screw), and holding the head against a file will likely get you what you need).

 

Re-threading the screw to M4 wouldnt work as the pitch would recut & destroy the UNC threads after 5mm. Tried it

The original screws are brass and chrome plated (they are on my car!) so you would have to use stainless steel screws to avoid destroying the chrome plate!. Bottom line is a compromise, you only ever see the actual head of the screw once fitted so a philips type head would be the best option.

 

There is never any substitute for "trying"...

If you've lost an entire thread after 5mm, then the thread pitch can't be all that close; sounds like it is best to stick with an M4...

 

Here is what you get from this source compared to the original one:

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And this is what you can machine out of it:
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Our CNC guy fainted when I asked if he could mill the philipps head. I have one more enquiry at a fastener company and if they don't want to make the small qty., adapting these could be the best option.