Daytona shocks rebuild time

would like to hear everyones experience for doing the rebuild from paint to bushings to pitfalls etc.
tia

 

They are available new. The rule of thumb used to be if available new it was less expensive than rebuilding. New Daytona shocks are expensive so that rule may no longer apply. I used Pacific Shock at Sears Point Raceway for many years and that was their advice as well. Pacific has gotten very expensive in recent times, partially no doubt to the expense of operating in California, a situation I know all to well. Might call and ask them and might see if there are other high quality rebuilders in other areas that can rebuild them at a more rational price.

 

I had mine rebuilt by the Koni factory in KY and was pleased. One was rusted through and they had to remake with an outside tube. The paint looked correct but I did not have a good comparison.

Quality, price and time were good.

This was well over 5 years ago though.


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https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/148713000/

I used "Performance Shock" in Sonoma, CA.

If I had it all to do over again, I would have had them not primer the shocks, and just processed the shocks as soon as I got them. It would have been easier to deal with a "known quantity" primer.

I think the turn-around time was about a month, but was told it can vary depending on season.

Cost dependent on whether all the hard-metal bits are in good shape.

A little more expensive than "new" (I found that a lot of "new" shocks these days were actually also rebuilt older units), but if you have the "wing" logo stamps, and want to keep that detail, no choice but to pay the piper...

 

Koni rebuilds your original so your shocks have the original casing with the important date code stamped.

The date code is very easy to see, hard stamped, so super special to me and the price was less than the new one

Can you see the date code on your shocks?
Is the date code something you valued?

 

Hi Sergio,

If your question is directed at me, yes, I think the date code and (especially) the "wing" logo stamp are important.

I don't believe you can see them when the car is on the ground (hidden by the big rubber sleeve), but obvious when the car is on jack stands.

-- Alex

 

pix of “wing” logo stamp?

 

Hard to get a good clear shot...
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so is the date code on tyres important too.
Serviceable units like batteries A arm bushes amongst hundred of other items

 

Well, for shocks, there is an option to rebuild them, so it is a little different than a tire.

Also, I never claimed that I thought the shock marking should figure into show judging, or anything like that; I just said that it was important to me personally.

My car is not even show quality car, in any way. I just want it to be as close to how I think it likely looked out of the factory, and the more modern Konis are stamped with a logo that did not even exist back in 1972.

To me, my car is basically like a life-sized, operational model of a Daytona, and I am just a "modeler" that is trying to put as many accurate-looking details on it as I can, and make it operate as much like it originally did back in 1972 as possible. To me, the wing logo on the shocks is an interesting detail, so I wanted my car to have it. This is just how I happen to enjoy the classic-car hobby; others have different ways of looking at it.

The question of batteries is an interesting one. Personally, I've always thought it was a little silly to buy "vintage look" batteries with plastic stuff on the top to make them look old, and then put Marelli stickers on the side of them. What does interest me is getting an actual battery that is constructed in the old way (individual cells, with metal straps across the top to hook them together). I have little doubt that a modern-construction battery is better in every way, but that is sort of the point. Using the old-construction battery would give one a chance to experience what an old battery like that was like to use, and to me they are just very interesting to look at.

Now someone will be tempted to point-out that I put urethane bushes in the rear suspension of my car, and that this is inconsistent with what I say above. Guilty as charged; I don't think it makes too much sense to let preferences rule one's life. I already know that rubber deteriorates faster than urethane, and don't feel like I get a lot of utility out of experiencing that first hand. Also, it scared the daylights out of me to press the old bushings out of my "unobtanium" A-arms, and I never wanted to have to do that again...

 

rubber bushings for front?

 

I only did urethanes for the soft A-arm bushes, and the front A-ams don’t have any soft bushes; pretty “fancy”…

 

I had all 4 Koni shocks rebuilt by Performance Shock, Sonoma California (Bruce 800-965-5664) www.pshox.com. They also refurbished the coils and Terry Myr in Michigan pressed out and replaced all bushings. The shocks look great and perform perfectly. Done over the Xmas holidays, '22, so it took awhile, and shipping them was PITA, but don't that forget the coils went too. Had to insure for $$$$, as they're pretty much irreplaceable and heavy. Not sure I'd go to the trouble or expense to make them show quality agsin, as now they are the only thing underneath the car that looks really good! s

 

My Konis have all been restored, but I'm seriously considering replacing them with custom units from Nitron (https://www.nitron.co.uk/products/automotive). I have these on my Cobra and they are fantastic. I bought my Daytona to use it, so I'm not too concerned about absolute originality.

Paul

 

Sure, why not? Set the originals aside and see how you like the new ones. You, or the next owner, can change at any time. lt's yours to do as you please and this isn't irreversible. s