Eliminating front end rise while accelerating in a 360

Other than stiffer springs or shocks with adjustable compression/rebound which have larger adjustment range than the OEM units (both these options would come with unintended impacts to other areas of handling) the only other way to achieve anti-squat (or anti - dive) is to change the suspension mounting points (again, this leads to unintended impacts to other areas of handling)

Lowering the car in and of itself won't materially do anything (the amount of weight transfer reduced due to a drop in CoG is minimal, most of the "gain" in reduced squat would be due to the stiffer springs you would naturally have to run to prevent bottoming out)

I'm not gonna sit here and say to you to keep everything stock as that's best given these are 20 year old cars and technology has moved on ....tire tech has moved on so grip levels achievable now from street tires far exceed anything imaginable by engineers in the late 90s (meaning what was appropriate for aggressive tires when this car was designed would be barely adequate for decent all season tires today)

 

Buy a newer car.

 

I never noticed any unacceptable front end "rise" in my 360. Maybe be sure the OEM suspension is all in order first. I also keep my car in "sport" mode-- always. I'm guessing in Sport mode the travel up is reciprocal to the travel down as the suspension is set to be stiffer. I may be I'm guessing wrong and there are lot of those here with way more knowledge on this. But with that said, if the suspension feels stiff enough while driving then there shouldn't be any objectionable "lift" on take off.

 

There's more to squat /dive than spring rates

 

OK. and...

 

What you said simply isn't true

You can have significant anti-dive anti-squat built into the suspension that you can effectively dial out any pitch due to acceleration/deceleration

This is basically never change-able on factory setup but the point still stands.

On top of that, the variable suspension on the 360 have much larger impact on the rebound than compression

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Start with new OEM shocks & springs all round, all of the ball joints, all of the bushes, and a full geometry setup. 20+ year old suspension parts will be loooooong past their best.

 

Consider sending the shocks & springs out to Madeno Racing for a rebuild, instead of buying all new ones. Will be about 1/4 the cost!

 

I'm betting your engine mounts and gearbox mount are badly worn and there is a lot of movement going on with weight transfer on acceleration. Get them checked.

 

That's a very good point. My engine mounts were not great but my gearbox mount was totally *&!)%ed, you can't see it without removing the back box, and even then it's not completely clear until you move the A-frame thing out of the way. The telltale for a chronically bad gearbox mount is if the bellows on the MAFs are squished up and the air filter housing is being pushed towards the back of the car.