Hi all Somebody I know recently bought a Ferrari 308 GTB. There are a few small problems. The speedometer is currently in MPH and it has to be in KMH. Does somebody know where I can find one? I've did a search on the well known Ferrari parts websites but I couldn't find it Another problem is the gearbox. There are 3 cog wheels in the gearbox. They need to be replaced but they are very expensive. Maybe somebody in here has those cog wheels and doesn't need them? The part numbers are 105542, 105543 and 105544. Pics are attached. Regards, Jeroen Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm always in the market for a working US style speedo.....talk to me! Martin in Cavallino Motors in Miami (site sponsor) had a 308 tranny he was gonna use as a table....see if he'll pull the gears! Welcome, brudda! *308GTB club handshake*
Fuuny how the US cars wander back to Europe, and the Euro cars are running around over here! Second case I know of a US speedo being swapped...
What is wrong with the gears, I have a spare middle and lower I will part with if they will help you out. I will check the part numbers, what year is your car? I also have a spare cover.
I see a little rust, common when car's been stored.. Get that greasy part off your Owner's Manual! That BOOK is a $200USD part! LOL!
First of all, I want to say again that this car isn't mine! A good friend of me asked me to put this message here! Hi, I will contact Martin. I let you know something when the speedo will be sold. Some 'teeth' (don't know the exact name in English) are worn out and so they don't run over smoothly into the other cog wheels. I don't know exactly the year of the car, the only thing I know is that it is an early 308 with carbs. I'll check it out... I let you know something for the spare cover EDIT: it's a 1977 308 GTB!
It may be possible to send unit for new silkscreened dial.........see if anyone in Europe can handle that, if unit works fine. Lot's of Boxers were done this way when new, to come to USA......
Hello to everyone who is reading this and can help me. I just picked up a 1983 Ferrari 308GTS. I was running the car and everything was working when the heater fan blew a fuse and keeps on blowing fuses. I checked out that the fans are working properly and they are both turn on and are blowing but the air is not getting to the cabin vents. What is causing the fuse to blow if the fans are running properly. Hope someone has had this problem and can help me figure it out. thank you
Check that the filters, #25, in the heater boxes are not blocked and that the various hoses and valves/cables are in the proper places and working: https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/308-quattrovalvole/117-heating-system If there's enough "drag" in the heater motor(s) (dirty bearing, old grease, hoses blocked/kinked, etc.) to reduce their RPM = that causes a higher current draw (and they are in a tough location that ingests a lot of debris/dirt/leaves).
So far I can't find anything the heater blowers are blowing strong and no clogs that I can find. Any other things I can try to look for to find the problems?
If the air isn't reaching the cabin vents (when the fans are running), you have to have a problem somewhere. The next level would be to measure the current each fan motor is actually drawing to see if that is what is causing the fuse to blow -- if there is a bad rivet connection at the fuseblock, this can cause enough I^2*R heating of the fuse to melt the fuse element even though the current isn't enough to blow the fuse by itself.
Replace the original fusebox with "Birdman" aftermarket. This is no brainer first thing to do in a 308
the fans were blowing fine in the biginning air flow was good and after that the airflow stopped. I looked at the blowers and they are working fine blowing air bu it's not making it to the vents. I do plan on replacing the fuse panel I have ordered it already.
You say there is no air to the vents. Are your cables working? I would check each one to see if the cable is still connected to the control lever (could be a loose screw). If so, is it actually moving the vent in and out? The other possibility is the hose may have come loose from the heater boxes or vents. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I have everything still open in front where I can see all the hoses and all are connected and the cables are still attached to the screws. I have lubricated all the connections of the cables to the three-way adjustment port from top to bottom vents. It's just a freaking mystery.
IF THE HOSE HAS COME LOOSE FROM THE HEATER BOXES THE FUSE WOULD NOT BLOW BECAUSE THE AIR WOULD BE FLOWING. I CAN SEE IF THERE IS AN UBSTRUCTION IN THE LINE THAT THE AIR IS FORCED BACK TO THE BLOWERS THEN THAT WOULD PUT STRESS UNDER THE BLOWERS AND CAUSE THEM TO GET HOT AND BLOW THE FUSE. SUCH A SIMPLE PROCESS FOR THE AIR TO FLOW BUT YET SOMETHING PROBABLY REALLY STUPID IS HAPPENING FOR THE AIR NOT TO FLOW. I THANK YOU AND EVERYONE ELSE ON HERE FOR YOUR IMPUT. PLEASE KEEP IT COMING.
I have looked at the control levers and they are still hooked up to the cables but what I am seeing is that when I move the lever back and forth the cables themselves are not moving both the whole insulation is. The cable inside the sleeve must be somehow stuck in there against the sleeve pulling the cable by hand or moving the insulation should release it. so far everything I am looking at is working. the two heaters #25 are they there just to warm the air up so air flows through it cold or hot? Just wondering like somebody mentioned before to check out to see if airflow is going through them but they are stationary so I can't mobe them. Any thoughts?
Regarding the lack if airflow. It's only logical that something is blocking the air. Only several possibilities: a clog in the flexible air hoses or vents, a plugged heater box filter (if the filter is still even there), a clogged heater box core or a closed or inoperative heater/defroster vent flap (BINGO) Obviously, you want the insulation to be held stationary by the clamps at the ends and the inner wire to move freely when the lever is moved. You need to buy a motorcycle lubrication tool and start to lubricate the cable at both ends. Hopefully this should free the inner cable and clean out the rust or debris. If that does not work, you can replace the cables. Bicycle brake cables which are thicker, as opposed to derailer cables which are thinner, can be used as a substitute.
