Yikes!
hey, I noticed you said you were able to get the whole flap out of the car… You did this yourself just by maneuvering the top into different positions to access the three different screws/bolts holding it in? And then what, you replaced it with a new part or the repaired part just by doing the same thing again? No major disassembly?
Yes, move top -> undo 1 screw -> move top -> undo next screw... I ended up getting a new flap and then had it painted by my local shop. Also one of these mini screw driver ratchets helps: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html -Sam
awesome! I figured it was this straight forward. Service guy made it sound like it was going to be the biggest project in the world (probably planning on disassembling way more crap than they need to). So it sounds like I got another project on my hands… thanks for the encouraging news. Hopefully there is no other problem I’m not seeing. For me, it was one of the bottom two pieces that broke off. I see there are three points of contact: two on the bottom that pull/push up and down, and one on the side that slides. So I assumed there would be three screws to undo, but you’re saying there are only two?
Ok cool, was just curious. But you gave me what I wanted to hear: “I can do it myself with some maneuvering.” Done! Saves me thousands.
Carsten please update us on your efforts to remove, repair and re-install flap. This task is in my future. I have a repaired and repainted LHS one to install (after removing a scratched up one)
Will do. I am going to start early next week. I ordered the improved aluminum (instead of plastic) replacement part and will need to get it painted. But I’m also going to see if I can salvage/glue the original part too, as a back up. But switching to the aluminum part seems worth it in the long run as it will clearly be less prone to snapping/cracking like the fancy-pants plastic OEM part. I’ve replaced my side mirror, done custom stereo, back up camera, replaced fuel pumps, removed the screens behind the roll bars, replaced battery, installed valve controller… I’m hoping I’m savvy enough to get this sucker out of there and replaced.
I never got back around to updating this! Oops. In short, I was able to do it. Ordered the aluminum parts, got them repainted a local shop for $100 for the pair. Then I have to remove the back cover (that hides the top when top is down) > remove the gray underneath where the cover sits, and then I was able to more easily access the flaps. I’m sure with enough frustration someone can manage to get them out without removing that much, but those two parts are actually pretty straight forward to get out. I only needed my wife to help me hold that first main cover panel to lift it safety away. Everything else was actually pretty straight forward. Was quoted $2000 by someone to do what took me a couple hours of looking at a diagram… Oh Ferrari…
When you say>>>>Remove the gray underneath where the cover sits. Can you clarify that or any pics? Thanks
oh, sorry, I meant “the tray.” Typo. Part number 7 in the diagram. It’s the big tray bucket thing holds the top when it’s down. I probably didn’t need to do that, but it gave me more elbow room and was pretty easy to take out. Also one of the screws that holds in the flaps was stripped, so I needed more leverage. Maybe if that wasn’t the case I wouldn’t have felt like that was in the way. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lorenzo, when you figure out what Carsten mean by removing the tray can you please explain it to me. I have to remove one of my flaps for repainting after repairing a crack on the flap. Please and thanks
He's saying that he removed the Capote cover. And then he removed that bottom tub that the top sits in when the top is down.. Someone in here said it was a major deal but he is saying it's straightforward and pretty easy. I got a problem with my rollbar cover and i'm not sure how to adjust it. If it can be adjusted. I got To Figure this out why this gap is off Image Unavailable, Please Login
But that flap looks like it has 2 pins at the bottom. one each side with a c clip Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi, I have the same issue. I cannot seem to find where to buy the aluminium ones? Would you be so kind to point me to where to get them?
I don't know if the aluminium ones are reproductions or OEM. Did you ask the usual stockists if they are now all aluminium? This LH flap is aluminium and new (reportedly): https://exoticautorecycling.com/product/ferrari-360-lh-left-convertible-top-flap-afm-aluminium-new-p-n-66462000-2/ "This part is new reproduced in aluminium." RHS (NIL STOCK) https://exoticautorecycling.com/product/ferrari-360-rh-right-convertible-top-flap-afm-aluminium-new-p-n-66462100/
The post above for exotic auto recycling is where I got mine. Although I purchased through eBay. Seems like not only did they go up in price, but they’re out of stock. I’ve purchased a bunch of used parts from them and they’re usually quick about responding. So I’d just give them a call. I don’t know if they’re making them or just reselling them, but I’m sure they’ll help you get it sorted.
My RH capote flap broke and I repaired it using the epoxy method from the top. Now my recently rebuilt roof is not working. The capote hood goes up but the top does not come out. Just another day of spider ownership
If you just had that work done AND you just redid the flap, it’s probably something simple like the sensors. They have a tendency to need adjustment a couple times once you touch anything. If you’re saying “the top won’t come out” as in it’s down and won’t “go back up,” I’m willing to bet the sensors at the bottom of the flaps aren’t being touched correctly. The computer needs to know the flaps are all the way down before wanting to lift the entire top back up (since the arms of the top swing through where the flaps go). And that would also make sense if you just did the flaps… Maybe a sensor got knocked out if alignment when the flap snapped, or just from fitting ever so slightly different after you reinstalled. I’d start there… luckily the sensors are held in with basic screws and easy to adjust. Getting your hands in there with a tool is the hardest part. #4 in the diagram.
Someone here once posted a pic of where every sensor in the top mechanism were located. I thought I had it downloaded but I can't find it.
I just edited my post above to include where the flap sensors are. But here’s the whole thing. I think #4 above is likely his issue. In this chart, it’s #1 [
yep thats it. This is really good to have. I tried to print it but it came alittle blurry for some reason but thanks for posting this up.....Mico switch is the word i was trying to think of
