English Verge / Fusee Pocketwatches (service and repair) | Page 6 | FerrariChat

English Verge / Fusee Pocketwatches (service and repair)

Discussion in 'Fine Watches, Jewelry, & Clothes' started by walnut, May 22, 2022.

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  1. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    It has been quite a while since I made progress on the Ed. Gratrex piece but I have been back at the bench again after a summer hiatus. A few other easy services (cleaning and timing) on some more modern pocket watches and a couple clocks have been completed and are out of the way. So… let’s get back to this.

    The goal for this piece is to recover the exterior case with polished Shagreen (stingray leather). I’m following the same process I did in a previous effort but it was with cowhide and didn’t have those hard keratin nodules on it. They can be cut, but it will be more of a challenge for sure.

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    The mainspring still needs a new hook installed as I’m not happy with my previous attempt. That is really all that’s left for this one though.
     
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  2. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    If that works, its going to look pretty wild!
     
  3. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    Ok, this is proving to be every bit as tough as I thought it would be. I’m getting there, but this certainly can’t stretch and/mash like normal leather. I have yet to figure out a way to get a clean cut along the case lines. From a distance it’s not bad.

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    From up close… I want to be able to do better but unsure how.

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    I may have to find some sort of poly leather paint/patch or edging that I can apply to get a nice edge. Anyone have a suggestion?

    @ArtS, what say you?
     
  4. walnut

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    As much as I wanted to keep the large center nodule for the ray on the back of the case, it just can’t work with the edges. I removed that piece and cut a new section lower on the ray’s back, closer to the tail. The nodules are smaller, thinner, and much easier to trim.

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    I’ve only completed the one section but that is an edge I can live with.
     
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  5. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    Too bad about the center but it looks like the right call - fit and finish is more important than bells and whistles.
     
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  6. walnut

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  7. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    Well... I know where there are more old pair cased watches and we now know someone who can apply shagreen... :^) So if you want to keep your first watch covering job intact...

    Oh, BTW, it looks really cool!

    I think this one is approaching the home stretch!

    Regards,

    Art S.
     
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  8. walnut

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  9. ArtS

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    1. It looks really cool!

    2. Does the edge need to be 'finished'? I haven't researched how the shagreen should be maintained.

    3. It looks really cool!
     
  10. walnut

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    1) Thank you!

    2) I have to look into this as well.

    3) Totally agree!
     
  11. walnut

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    I haven’t forgotten about the A. Goldsmith. The movement, as I’ve posted, is in good shape. I need to finish hands and find a glass for the inner case. I have found someone that will make a custom one but not with the bullseye. I think that will have to do for now.

    I did finally manage to get the replacement latch for the exterior case installed though. It works reliably and securely.

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  12. ArtS

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    I put this in the watch videos thread but it should be here as well.

    Tompion!

     
  13. walnut

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    If you follow the link below there will be quite a bit of info on the movement itself.
    https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/17911255

    As for the case it is most likely (I can’t see the stamps on it) 14k gold-filled. That style is called a “hunter” or “full hunter” with the crown at 3 o’clock and the hinged cover to protect the crystal/dial.

    If you have other questions, please let us know.
     
  14. WPOZZZ

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    Thanks! A couple guys asked about pics, so I figured I'd post them here. I can wind it, and it works, but cannot change the time. I tried to pull the crown out,m but could not.
     
  15. Solid State

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  16. ArtS

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    #142 ArtS, Jan 19, 2024
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2024
    Although it's neither English, nor a fusee, I'll try to fill you in.

    The watch movement was made in 1914. It is decent quality, 17 jewel is normally considered fully jeweled in US movements but, in reality, 15 jewels or even less is plenty to insure maximum accuracy. However, the movement is 'unadjusted' which means it isn't factory tuned to chronometer standard (an over simplified explanation).

    The dial is an optional upgrade - they figured out how to fire in those designs into the enamel glass of the dial in a production manner, which would cost thousands (or a lot) to produce in that quality today.

    Although I can't see the markings on the inside of the case panels covering the movement, it has the sense of a gold filled case. That means a heavy plating, but not in the modern sense - it is thick enough that it will test at 14K (which is what you are touching) even though it isn't solid gold. It's actually made of relatively thick sheets of 14k bonded using a special technique to a brass core (which provides stability and strength without excessive weight and cost). There is a stamp that probably says '25 years' in the inner back cover. This means the case was guaranteed to not wear through for 25 years of use (a bit of false advertising but you get the idea considering yours hasn't worn through yet).

    Overall, it's a nice middle class American dress watch from the Edwardian (pre- World War One) era. The 12 size is a smaller end watch from the period (smaller cost more back then). It would fit subtly in your vest pocket without being heavy or bulky. It will fit nicely in the watch pocket of your jeans today. If serviced, it can tell accurate time for an evening out (it won't go a week or a month without adjusting the time like American railroad watches or European chronometers would but it was perfect for purpose - a stylish watch for an evening out or a church service.

    Remember to push the button down when closing the front the same way you do when opening it - that satisfying 'click' you hear when snapping the front closed is the sound of the polished steel catch wearing out the brass and gold case lid lip. Regarding setting the time, the crown should pop out; its listed as pennant set movement, but may require a bit more force to get it to go. The watch hasn't been serviced in a long time and the crown is spring loaded to NOT pop up easily. That said, there is a dark smudge along the bezel between 4 and 5 O'clock. That is approximately where the lip of a lever setting mechanism should be. Put your fingernail behind the smudge and pull out; if a little metal thingy comes out, you can now turn the crown to set the watch. If not, wash the fleck of dirt off your hand and go back to pulling on the crown... :^)

    Get it serviced, get a chain or strap for it and enjoy it - its a great little watch!

    Regards,

    Art S.

    PS. you take better pictures of watches than me and Rich do!
     
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  17. WPOZZZ

    WPOZZZ F1 Veteran

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    I love the Fchat brain trust! Thanks guys! I shall take a closer look at the watch today.
     
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  18. walnut

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    If it’s not one thing, it’s another. I finally learned how to properly make a mainspring hook for the Ed. Gratrex piece.

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    I’ve got the bulk of the movement reassembled and find now that the ratchet mechanism inside the fusee cone is slipping such that the watch cannot be wound. Looks like I’m taking it back apart.

    So close!
     
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  19. ArtS

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    A pretty good video describing what Rich is up against. Mind you, the watches Rich is fiddling with are older, which means more complex and trickier. Because of the components are unique, rather than mass produced (at least not in the way we think of mass production) there are no off the shelf replacement parts. Also, the overall timekeeping solution and its tuning and adjustment techniques make this a watchmaking comparison to an old Ferrari's Webber carbs vs. modern fuel injection - fuel injection is simpler and better but not nearly as cool! Finally, nearly 300 years of wear doesn't help.

     
  20. walnut

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    I had thought the watch was done. Everything was assembled and the new mainspring was installed… then I wound it and discovered that the ratchet on the fusee cone was slipping.

    I’ve been fighting that issue for a while now, trying not to make a mistake I cannot fix. Today, at least when turning it by hand, it feels like I’ve managed to cure the issue. I’ve had to reshape the steel pawl, modify the curve of that pawl spring to give it more pressure, and use a file to add depth to the worn teeth.

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    I need to do some more checking with my microscope as there are 2-3 teeth out of the 50-ish that still slip. That’s much better than the 20-30 that were not working before though.
     
  21. ArtS

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  22. ArtS

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    Although this has a variety, they spend a while on the early stuff. It's striking to me that the first watch shown was made during the rule of King William of William & Mary (late 1600s - early 1700s). It's amazing to see a small finely hand made machine that's well over 300 years old and still running!

     
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  23. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    For those interested in what a fusee/chain system is, it's been reincorporated into a Zenith movement so there are nice CAD drawings and good explanations of how it works:

     
  24. ronfrohock

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    I love this thread. Keep up the great work work!!!
     
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