I used the Eni once when found it and have since gone back to Redline 75/90 NS
That's what I have now and it is a bit harsh when cold, it takes a bit of driving to warm up and then it is smooth as glass, 40K on a manual and running strong, I spent a few hours re-reading this post and a couple of other posts and I may be overthinking the synchro vs gears part of the conversation...as always
I am currently performing a belt service on my 360 f1. I would also like to change fluids while car is not driveable. I have read dozens of posts on which lubes to use without a definitive answer. Most of the products listed in the service manual are either no longer available or not available in the US. If I were to take my car to a reputable Ferrari dealer for a major service what lubricants would they use ? Engine ? Transmission ? F1 reservoir ? Brake fluid ? Coolant ?
Keith, I was trying to upload a pic of all the products I used but failed, I decided to service my car 360 myself, I did my research on what the indi shop that was servicing my car previous to me buying it was using, and what my local indi shop uses that I have been going to for about 10 years and what a Ferrari dealer mechanic said they use at the dealership, and of course the invaluable information on this site and I came up with this, Red Line 75W90ns gear oil for the Transmission. ATE Typ 200 Brake fluid DOT4. ZEREX G05 Coolant. Pennzoil Platinum Euro Full Synthethic 5W-40 Engine oil. I purchased it all on Amazon including the pump for the gear fluid, the vacuum tool for the coolant (makes it soooo easy), and the oil filter wrench, I did get the oil filter and drain plug /gasket from Ricambi. I can't help you with the F1 fluid since mine is a 3 pedal. let us know how the belt change went, always interesting to hear when someone goes the DIY route on their F car.
Thanks for the reply. I used the same gear oil and brake fluid. For the coolant I used Peak European formula , Redline ATF for the f1 and power steering, Mobil 1 5w-40 Euro in the engine. As for difficulty I found the coolant change was the most frustrating (should have ordered vacuum tool). I flushed the system by running with distilled water until the fans came on at least twice. I then drained from radiators and 4 hoses underneath car. The belt change was not too bad. Watched multiple videos on line. Easy access with the interior panel removed. Purchased parts and special tools from Ricambi. Used a scope to view the marks on the rear of the cams. On another note, I wonder if we are not "over servicing" our cars. I have changed oil, filter, and cleaned screen for the 5th time since my ownership. (5 and 1/2 years, 9690 miles) Oil has been only slightly darker than new and screen always clean. My first trans oil change found oil and screen clean. All belts removed were like new. The timing belt tension (sonic) was still in spec and the only signs of use was wear of the writing on the back of belts. These are my observations. Please don't ignore service on your cars based on my findings.
Uview 550000 Airlift Cooling system leak checker and airlock purge tool kit on Amazon, it is a Breeze to use, I wish I had a lift but my garage roof is too low, so I use a Quickjack which is great for most things, the radiator drain plugs seem scarily fragile, but I had no problem with them. I often wondered if we are overservicing, but I remember reading somewhere that fluids have a shelf life and the belts under tension and high RPM do also, so I figured it is worth the expense, for under $200 (after the purchase of a few tools) I can service all the fluids for 6 years for the same amount as the Indi shop charges for only 1 service, and most important the satisfaction of doing it myself, I plan on doing the clutch in the next few months, I also have a 2013 Porsche 911 and I can find all sorts of information when I am trying to do work on it, but very limited resources for the 360.
Thanks for the response. I would be interested to know how your clutch replacement goes since mine is original from 2001 (22775 miles). I also have a Porsche 911, 2014. I have found the opposite concerning information available. I try to perform most of my own service and repairs which so far have been successful on the Ferrari. With Ferrarichat, Youtube, and a service manual on cd I have not needed a dealer. The Porsche has had at least 2 failures requiring a dealer visit.
I kinda think we do over dooooo...but I'm ocd and thats ok. Many others who own and work on these cars are way worse than me....LOL....I don't mind the annual lookee looo....keeps us hands on and keeping an eye on our babies. I think that is worth the few bucks changing fluids....cheers
I would like to make a note to this old but valuable thread about the heat exchangers. I took one apart recently and noted that the reason for failure of the particular heat exchanger I looked at was from the oil side of the system. The heat exchanger tubes appear to be pure copper. The coolant side appeared to have zero corrosion and the tubes were shiny inside, like new. Oils that are less corrosive to red metals would be the obvious choice for the 360 seeing as the syncros and the heat exchanger are made from brass and copper. Here's a picture of a corroded tube from the heat exchanger. The one on top is a new tube, the one on the bottom, not so new. Image Unavailable, Please Login Here's a link to a heat exchanger thread with more details on my analysis. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/my-360-heat-exchanger.683304/page-2#post-149343876 After reading this long thread, I came up with a list of potential safe transaxle oils: Redline MT-90 GL4 75/90 Shell Spirax S5 ATE 75W-90 Nulon Full Synthetic 75W-90 -> Australia only Eni Rotra LSX 75W-90 I'd love to hear the experiences from those who have had long term experience with their 360 and know what kind of transaxle oil they're running. Did you have a synchro or heat exchanger failure during your ownership?
I always thought the wrong antifreeze attacked the copper .. Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Reviving this thread as the recommendations seem to change every so often. The takeaways I found from the last 6 pages/6 years of this thread are (and please correct me if I’m wrong): * GL4 is safer for the gears, questionable for synchros * GL5 is safer for synchros, questionable for gears * gears are the more expensive repair vs synchros I recall that Brian (and many others) used to recommend the Redline 75W90NS, but some posts suggest that he had been considering a switch back to a GL4. Does anyone know if he officially switched? I’ve tried Ravenol for the last 18 months and 8K miles or so, but I’ve started to hear a faint whine under light loads. While I ultimately believe I will be looking at repairing bigger issues, I figured a gear oil change would be an easy and inexpensive place to start the process. There’s no oil in the coolant, nor any detectable coolant in the oil when checking the dipstick. With the Nulon and Eni difficult-to-impossible to source here, my 2 choices are between the Redline NS vs MT90; the usual debate. I’m curious what, if anything, has changed in recent findings that the most recent recommendations suggest MT90 over NS. Is it in consideration of protecting the heat exchanger moreso than the gears and synchros?
See post #10, by gears you mean hypoid gears? I think you have it backwards gl5 is better for differential, gl4 is better for synchros.
You don't want a gl4 in a 360 ..period end .. Had someone reach out to me and we tried a few things and it looks like motul non LS did the trick for him Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
I don't suggest anything. I just tell you what I use. I have never used GL4 in a 360. Not once. It is not a hypoid lubricant. I have used a lot of Redline NS but I was 20 miles down the road from where it was made. Awfully expensive to get here. There is little to no car culture in Texas so no specialty lubricants except maybe for a Cummins. I do know many here have complained of posi chatter with it. I had very little problem with that. Can't imagine why so many do. I use different products for different cars and 360s are not a huge part of my business now and they are not as fussy about gear oil as many other cars I do a lot more of. But since I have a good sized box of wiped out syncros for them I do think abut it.
Dominick, when you say you had somebody reach out to you, were they trying to troubleshoot a specific issue, or just wondering what oil to use? If they were troubleshooting, what issue did the Motul non LS solve?
Brian, Thanks for weighing in. So Ferrari recommends GL5. It sounds like people recommending GL4 do so in an effort to protect the synchros? But doing so could risk the hypoid gears? Just trying to get my info straight from all the info in this thread from the last 6 years!
Experimenting with different oils to quiet the whine ...and it seemed the motul non LS version made it quieter than the vsg..this is whine not chatter Most likely chatter if present would get worse with the non LS version Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Redline oil fixed diff chatter on my 360 immediately fwiw [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Indeed! That’s always in the back of my head. I check the coolant reservoir for level and signs of oil at least once a week, and I check the gear oil dipstick once every 1-2 months. I pulled the dipstick most recently last Saturday. Fluid was still clean and a nice amber color. Level was proper. See attached pics. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What about Red Line 58504 SuperLight ShockProof Gear Oil, 75W90? One of my customers has been using it in a 360 saying it gives the best shifting in a manual transmission. How does it compare to the Red Line 58304 (75W90NS) GL5 Non-Limited Slip Synthetic Gear Oil being mentioned a few times in this thread? And why would Redline 75W90NS be better in 360 than Redline 75W90 without NS, considering that 360 has a limited slip diff and the "better" 75W90NS oil is called Non-Limited Slip? Or is to some other "Slip"? (Sorry if that's obvious to others but I'm not a transmission oil expert) Thanks
