It seems as if you are an extremely poor judge of character then. It would be smart to be more careful with your judgement in the future. You don't have to be a subject matter expert to ask for quantifiable proof for dubious claims. All that's needed is a bit of common sense and a no-BS mentality. And it's not unreasonable to expect people with certain backgrounds to be more likely to have that. The people involved in the EAG saga and the various youtubers don't seem to be particularly cunning, wouldn't you agree?
Imahorse, you bring up a point that I failed to recall, that is, EAG’s brushing over any detail with respect to their conversion effecting the mechanical behavior of the rear Differential! I couldn’t help but notice the commentary regarding various peoples enthusiasm for various products based on blind faith as well as the irreproachable consideration that many owners of Elite Cars, like our own Prancing Stallions, are more likely armchair critics of anyone that isn’t a “Certified Technician” thinking of performing any, much less all, repairs on such cars, much less their doing “conversions” to their own cars! Well, I may be among the few, but what started out of necessity of my doing my own repairs 16 years ago has tirned into a hobby! It was years ago when after shelling out $$ to have the engine rebuilt on my SAAB 9000 Aero whereafter, I took it upon myself to not just fix any issues but take preventative measures, like replacing every rubber suspension bushing, shocks, etc and built it up to Stage 5 requiring an uprated Intercooler to support the similarly upgraded Turbo, you get the drift. The feeling of pride was powerful after experiencing the result! Fast forward to 2017 when I bought my 2007 Mercedes AMG E63 at huge discount to its Original $95+k retail price, with 94k miles on it. First Impressions were that the interior was beautiful and the body was straight aside from a rather concerning Smiley Face Gauge going from Mirror to Mirror in front of the Emblem! I’m sure I’m not the first to jump at buying when one comes to the realization that finding such car in the preferred color combo is slim to none! In my case it was White with Tan interior as most came with grey or black interior. The fact that the guy selling it to me was the Head of Sales for a European Auto Dealership, I was somewhat reassured, that was, until I drove the car home from the Body Shop after the Title Cleared! What followed has been 3 phases done myself in my garage each lasting 6-9 months: 1st Phase-Heads Off and rebuilt whereupon I found out that 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent, and the reason was so wacked it would take a chapter to explain! In short, I corrected what would have resulted in Catastrophic Engine Failure! Also Intake Manifold was deteriorating and therefore rebuilt. I installed a Catch Can to collect EGR Oil Vapor to keep that IM Clean. In addition, front shocks-rebuilt, Power Steering Pump-New and HP Hose Rebuilt, Front Ball Joints-replaced, Torque Arms-Replaced, Upper Control Arms-Replaced with Adjustable etc. Of course New Head Bolts, new Spark Plugs were installed and the Injectors even after I removed to be inspected, failed, then New ones were installed, new engine mounts. Also the Airmatic Pump Unit was replaced as it seemingly failed as soon as I took possession! 2nd Phase-started with Rear Main Seal spewing Oil all over the exhaust causing it to smoke, this requires removal the entire exhaust Pipe as well as the Drive Shaft(s) and 180+pound Transmission. In so doing, I relaxed the Tranny Mount and removed/installed every Rear Subframe Bushing as well as 8 bushings replaced with K-Mac Poly bushings in the rear Control Arms along with new rear torque arms and their replaced corresponding bushing in each rear wheel carrier, and new adjustable Toe Arms, Rebuilt Rear Air Springs and new Shocks and swapped my 2.82 Rear Differential Gears with 3.06 Final Drive Ratio (ie-Ring & Pinion Gears) from a Chrysler (Diamler Chrysler) HRT 300 Challenger. In addition, the Headlights lenses were swapped with new ones (ie-cardboard Box and hairdryer to soften the Butyl Rubber around the Lenses), the radiator/Tranny Cooler/AC Dryer replaced as well as the AC Condenser and Alternator. Current 3rd Phase-Now that everything “mechanical” has been replaced and the 500 horses are seemingly more powerful with my 3.06 Gear Swap, the AC EVaporator sprung a leak, so all the stereo bits I have acquired with the dream of installing now has come to task, as my thinking was if I have to take out the entire Dashboard, I might as well go full bore, and sound “treat” the interior. Moreover, while I was at it, I might as well “Thermal” treat it as well, so Second Skin Products galore have been installed covering literally every metal surface (Trunk, 4 doors, F&R Floors, Firewall, Wheel Wells) . That’s as far as I’ve got but to follow is the Windshield Removal/replacement followed by Headliner Repair, then everything (Carpet, Seats, 12 Speakers, 3 Amps, DSP, Front and Rear Cameras, Head Unit) are all to finally be installed by yours truly. When thinking about what needed to be done. It made no sense to “Sub-out” this work because each required their own “$pecialist”, so I bit the bullit myself! And it will turn out to be my personal best as well as being the most powerful beast in the corral. That is, until I acquire my current “Dream Car” a 599GTB that yes, I intend on “Converting” to Manual Gated 6 (or is it 7?). Yes I would be considered a newby owner, and this car will literally be worth more than all 5 of my current Cars Combined! Am I psyched, you bet I am! Have I waited long enough, I sure have! Is such purchase practical, Hell No! And, I am champing at the bit! As to whether I’ll be able to sort out the ECU Gremlins with regard to shifting without loosing massive RPMs, there are those on this forum and others who are able to help. As for the LSD being rendered inoperable though after being converted to Manual, that is certainly a concern. I’m left to wonder if a Quaife or similar Differential could be installed to “solve” the issue! I may have to see for myself!
No I wouldn't say that. Customer's not being told that the e-diff would become inoperable or for them to know that there is a TCU delete necessary for the conversion is supposed to be common knowledge for people with business degrees as you speculated earlier? There was nothing presented in either the contract nor the scope of work that mentioned TCU delete. It's rather easy to take potshots at people and ask "you'd think they'd know" these things. Show me any discussion anywhere in 2020 that an e-diff delete during a conversion was widely known. There are only a few hundred OEM manuals in the entire world. Most technicians wouldn't even have seen one let alone work on one. But somehow this should have been known by customers with business degrees? That beggars belief.
If someone has an EAG converted car that 360trev worked on, do you agree those cars have properly functioning ediffs?
I can't really recall what happened all the way back in 2020 which is the point @Kent Adams was trying to bring up At the end of the day any/all of us needs to be aware that when you're buying something (product/service) you're really responsible for doing your own research. Anytime you drop 5 figures on something, I don't think the excuse "but they told me *****" is really gonna cut it. This isn't a case of like me buying something for 10 dollars and it not being worth my time to do the research. It doesn't take THAT much time or effort to figure out how this stuff works and if this is really your pride & joy / hobby bla bla bla ... you'd know this stuff. It's hard to feel bad for people who get duped here in the same way that it's kinda hard to feel bad for Hi-Fi nerds who buy ten thousand dollar HDMI cables.
so is the assertation that EAG/360trev converted cars were mis-advertised and in fact have Ediffs deleted?
Do you have any info on this TCU delete stuff? The TCU absolutely should be removed from the car with a correct conversion process. It becomes defunct. Were there some cars converted with TCUs left in the car or something?
glad im not the only one who has struggled to understand the accusations. id be happy to send both my converted cars to Universal for an independent verification.
I can't remember making any statements about e-diffs and people knowing about the delete beforehand. My point is simple: I know virtually nothing about music, audio equipment etc. But before I'm spending 20k on cables, I'm gonna ask the vendor for proof that their product is indeed superior to a 200$ cable. And once again, i claim that it is not unreasable to assume that people who spend most of their day looking for value-for-money, cost savings or ROIs would be more likely to behave similarly.
From what little I've seen the technical knowledge of the regulars seems as good or better as any other forum. There are quite a few resourceful people on here sharing quality custom work and ideas. The basic questions and noob opinions seem to come more from the people who only drop by when something's wrong with their car or to chime in on threads that are loaded with subjectivity.
It’s hard to be an expert in everything, but it’s not hard to figure out who is capable. I placed my trust in trev, and until someone demonstrates evidence that my conclusion was flawed, i will continue to keep my trust.
If you open the rear covers behind your seats inside an F430 you will see four ECUs, with two on each side. The rear ECU on each side is for those four banks of the engine. The front ECU on the passenger side is the TCU (transmission) and the front ECU on the driver’s side is the E-diff ECU. Deleting the TCU has nothing to do with the E-diff and it’s operation.
Just look at your locking pressure on your dish tool as you drive ..that will confirm ediff is working Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Diagnosis tool like a Ap200 etc ..lol Sorry for my spell check and fat thumbs on a small phone Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Agree the TCU should be disconnected (as it would now serve no purpose) but I certainly hope the unit itself was returned to the customer (or atleast told it was left in the car should they ever wish to revert the car back to F1)
why? how many 430 owners are going to convert back to F1. basically obsolete paper weights for a regular 430. for a scud, maybe a different story.
My understanding is the TCU has to be deleted, however, the edif can still be wired to work. However, had I known way back when that the e-diff would have been disabled, I never would have converted the car. I was operating on the information I was given, which is the conversion was better than the OEM. I was also not aware that the rev limiter would be deleted either.
I was satisfied that the shifting, which is what I paid for, was superior to OEM. I'm still convinced of that based on very old forum posts from OEM owners. OEM owners reported that the car doesn't shift well when cold from 1-2 and some of the bushings used on OEM were just cheap plastic, because brittle and broke whereas the converted cars used a composite shift bushing that had better reliability, which I'm also convinced is superior to the original.
Well EAG and Trev both did mine and the e-diff didn't work. I don't think it was Trev's issue though, it was that the car wasn't wired correctly.
Was your e-diff working before the conversion? I've had no issues with my converted car but perhaps it was about what year/location/funding cycle your car was at EAG.
Stranger things have happened It's just good practice to give the parts back to the owner If they decide to throw it out its up to them but you can't just chuck it yourself
I assume it was. I never received any errors. After conversion, the errors were numerous. Art claimed ediff no longer worked because of a failed F1 pump, but dealer investigation reported that the F1 pump was in working order.
