How have these held up? Still making for the 355 w/ cats?
https://technistrada.com/ w/ = with or without? Are you looking for the cat ECU bypasses for catless cars?
I installed the bypass version and no sdl anymore. Mine would show up at cold start now it's gone. My cats are gone so I just wanted that damn light out.
w/ = with w/o = without apologies for the shorthand. If I purchase this for my 355 F1, how many of the thermocouples shall I also buy? Are there adequate installation instructions? Thanks!
Did you straight pipe it? I have cats + tubi. Any recommendations? I’m registered in FL, so I can delete…
There are two thermocouples. Because the Technistrada ones are universal, you'll have to adjust the depth to match the originals. I can't say if there are any installation instructions provided, but they may provide them on request. I would use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize compound on the thread for ease of maintenance down the line. The thermocouple ECUs they provide are plug and play. If you are planning to go catless, you could order their ECU bypass plugs. Also plug and play.
My factory cats are gutted I do have the O2 extensions on the second 02 sensors . I never had a cel only sdl.
Sorry to be so green / such a noob. But, do the ECU bypass plugs physically replace the green ECUs? Do they augment them somehow? On a 5.2 am I buying two 355 thermocouples and two ECU bypass plugs? Or am I buying three ECU bypass plugs? Also, should I replace all O2 sensors while I am doing this? Seems inexpensive enough.
They simulate a good, normal, fixed temperature. They completely replace the main cat ECUs (and thermocouples), but are only to be used if you don’t have cats… or like living dangerously. They can also be used to diagnose main cat ECU/thermocouple issues. If you use a bypass plug, you can quickly determine if you have a cat ecu/thermocouple issue or a wiring/Motronic issue. They can’t be used to replace exhaust bypass cat ECUs or diagnose them however, because the Motronic ECU needs to see a temperature change when the valve opens and closes, not a constant temperature.
If that’s the case, how does the Goth Bypass box, which has a switch that can be set to main cats or BYPASS VALVE keep the system happy ? It has to be sending a fixed signal regardless of temperature change to work on the Bypass Valve..
No one but Goth knows and, AFAIK, he's not making these anymore. Other's have tried simulating a range of different resistance/voltage values and they can't find a sweet spot. Perhaps some cars are more fussy than others. The system seems to want a temperature change, not a static temperature. Do you have one?
I do have one. It’s the only thing that has kept me sane ! I didn’t realize others have tried and failed to make another box. I’m surprised nobody else has been able to figure it out. I’ve been using it for five years with success. There’s a switch that lets you toggle between using it with the main cats or the BP Valve. So, there’s two different systems in the box.
I made a mistake. I'm not talking about the bypass plug. I was referring to the Catalytic Temperature Control Station listed here: https://technistrada.com/catalytic-slow-down-ecus/catalytic-temperature-control-station---355-360-456-550-575 I'd rather not remove my cats, I don't think anything is wrong with them. Do these replace the main cat ECUs?
Yes. They are smaller, lighter, cheaper and use more robust components. For cosmetic reasons/ symmetry, you may want to replace both control stations. You will still need a functioning cat and cat thermocouple.
Replaced all three with of the units with Technistrada cat temp sensors on my 99 (with cats) - they work terrific; no codes/slow down lights.
Has anyone tried this solution? No affiliation but my 550 was giving me the slow down light last year and then I replaced the CAT ECU's with the Technistrada replacement parts and it was working fine. However, when I went for a drive this weekend the slow down light came back on again and the car is limited on power. I was going to replace the thermocouple sensors but does anyone have experience with the Scud ING solution below ? https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/132-smart-duo-cat-ecu.html
Looking at my options for a 5.2 - need to replace the CAT ECU and Thermocouples... Technistrada or Scuding? Anyone use the Scuding solution yet?
I installed the Technistrada thermocouples (one was malfunctioning) and cats ECU recently and solved the problem. In my case a faulted coil was also interferring in the SLD light flash. Once everything changed, no lights flashing again. I learned of the Scuding solution after the installation of the Technistrada pack, so it was not an option for me but my thoughts are: technically looks as a very advanced and developed solution, very likely superior in reliability and accuracy to the OEM one (and maybe over the Technistrada as well). But as it is not designed to be located in a specific place into engine's bay I don't like it too much (you have to look for a place to fix it and then launch the wires through the engine bay to the thermocouples, close to very hot areas). So, it needs a small DIY and change of the overall aesthetic of the car. Knowing that the Technistrada alternative it is still superior to OEM solution and, fortunately, fits in totally right in the car engine bay lay-out I would go for this solution again
Can anyone answer this question in regards to the Cat Ecu's? I had an issue 2 years ago where the car began skipping/losing power -No CEL No SDL. Pulled over and shut it off, unplugged both Cat ECU's. Started car back up and still skipping. I'm assuming that the Cat ECU's/Thermocouples were not the issue at that time? I went and purchased the new Cat ECU's anyway, as I know the originals have an almost 100% failure rate.
As a point of interest, my cat ECU's were replace on my 1995 in 2006 with the green OE units. In 2016 I had an SDL. Though it was a cat ECU. Turned out to actually be a CAT overheating due to a bad coil. The 2006 ECU's are still working fine today after 18 years. Moral: don't assume an SDL is a bad cat ECU. John, with regard to your problem I had an experience somewhat similar. My car would break up as it hit 4000 RPM. Turned out to be a broken wire from one of the crank sensors (2.7 car). No CEL, no SDL....
