348 Hard to get into First Gear

Based on your description, best guess is slave cylinder "triple seals" or failing master cylinder.

When the hydraulic triple seals, which hold pressure for the slave cylinder that engages the clutch, begin to fail, the clutch will slowly re-engage, even if you have the pedal down. When you say you have to release and press the clutch again, it sounds like you are re-pressurizing the slave cylinder, which then fully engages the clutch and you can shift into first.

This would also explain why it is easier in 2nd gear, as you are pressing the clutch more more quickly, so there is not time for hydraulic system "leak" pressure.

In cases of slave cylinder leaks, you will see fluid start to leak from the rear of the car under the clutch housing. NOTE: The clutch and the brakes on these cars share a reservoir, so if you are losing fluid, make sure this is addressed!

You can easily test this theory. Find a road without traffic, then get up to about 30 mph or so in second gear, then depress the clutch and just hold it down. The car will coast. While holding it down, blip the throttle a bit every so often. You should be able to "feel" the drag of the clutch on the engine if the clutch is slowly re-engaging with the pedal depressed.

Another test would be to simply try pumping the clutch three times before shifting into first. It it works better that way, you have your answer.

Another possibility is that you have air in the clutch/brake line. You can try bleeding the clutch (which is a real party), but if that's the case, you will also need to sort out how air is getting in the line.

Lesser probabilities: synchro issues in your transmission, misalignment of shifter cables. The cables are a common problem, but they really don't match your description as well as a hydraulic leak does.

Good luck and let us know!

 

Start simple. If last clutch and brake system flush was over 2 years old change fluid and bleed. If less than 2 then bleed clutch. Check position of trans in 2nd gear. Is stick centered in slot nicely? Fluid does make a difference in shift quality. People have favorites here. Then go deeper if the simple things don't fix.

 

Redline 75W-90NS is the correct fluid for transaxles. Their regular 75W-90 contains LSD friction modifiers that are bad for synchros.

 

I have a new hill TOB, full AP Racing clutch assembly, new Motul hydraulic fluid, factory Shell Spriax gearbox oil, new triple seals, lubed shift cables, greased shifter box, I have the same issue occasionally. Actually I think my 80s cars had that issue, my Sirocco sure did. But I can get into second when cold pretty easy and never grinds or catches teeth going in or out of gears. When warm it feels like a new car. Before all that it was a dread driving it, not enjoyable at all, now it’s a joy.

 

Maybe others can chime into this one, but I am noticing a stiffness from the shift shaft that comes out the front cover that the linkage mounts to and does the main shift movements to engage the linkage inside the trans. I'm wondering if this gets tight over time. I was having trouble with initial engagement or moving into any gear for that matter after sitting. Once it was moved and engaged into a gear it would shift fine. It could also be a misalignment of the control fork for 1st and reverse. Do you have any trouble with reverse?

 

the trans needs to be out and the main front cover removed.

 

@rob58 Based on everything described, this isn't wholly unusual. Did you check the lever position in the gate in all of the gears as suggested already? A misalignment would be indicative of a shift mechanism issue. If not there's no need to pull the trans. Does first always work if you let the clutch up and then depress it again? @User-C3 is having a very different issue.

 

Recently my 348 had started to take a firmer push or pull to get into gear. I suspected clutch pressure plate. Took the clutch housing off and sure enough, 1 finger was broke off (like lots of others have experienced too). I'm sure the other ones were weak/worn. It was time for a new clutch. Did a new AP along with all seals and new Hill Eng. throw-out bearing assembly (bearing for old housing on my style is NLA.). Clutch job isn't hard, just had to buy 2 special tools....well worth it.

Everything smooth as butter now.

Bleeding the system was a piece of cake with the Motive pressurized fill bottle (https://www.motiveproducts.com/) the cap that came with the bottle screwed right on to the reservoir.

 

I go into third or second or both then into first. Rowing gears. The gears are not aligned and moving parts of the transmission have stopped.

Put it into another gear first then into the intended gear. Engaging another gear will usually move the gears in the transmission enough to be able to mesh. An STI gear box it is NOT.

sometimes pushing and releasing g the clutch works as well. I just row gears, it becomes second nature.

This is common btw as gearboxes from 80s at least everyone I have had including German cars, especially as they age.

 

Same idea as last time- examine your clutch pressure plate. $10 says you'll find a broken finger or 2. The clutch drag is what is making it hard to get into gear. From a stop to 1st is where you will feel it the most.