My weird door lock / window drop issue...(430 spider) | FerrariChat
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My weird door lock / window drop issue...(430 spider)

Discussion in '360/430' started by fossilfuel, Jun 9, 2024.

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  1. fossilfuel

    fossilfuel Karting
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    #1 fossilfuel, Jun 9, 2024
    With the recent spate of door lock, window, microswitch posts, I thought I would reach out to the collective minds for guidance on my issue.

    2007 430 spider.

    On the passenger door only (driver's side is fine), when I open the door (from inside or out) the window drops a little as normal. But it raises back up after about 15 seconds with the door still open.

    When I open the door, the red traffic warning light on the back of the door lights up (if I push the pillar switch, it turns off---so that switch is working) BUT the interior lights (by the mirror) do NOT come on when the passenger door is open (but DO when the drivers is open).

    The door lock with the key remote and with the little lock pulls on the inside.

    When the door is open, if I tug on the outside opener, the window drops again (for another 15 seconds) then goes back up.

    Thoughts???

    Thanks in advance,

    -mark in austin (fossilfuel)
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #2 Qavion, Jun 9, 2024
    The pillar door switches should only affect the red traffic warning lights on the door and the alarm. The wiring is spliced together so that opening any door will put both door lights on (if you can see them with the other door closed).

    By interior lights (by the mirror), do you mean the one on the overhead console? Window drop/raise and interior lights are controlled by a number of different switches on the door (but not the pillar switch)

    I assume this is not normal (but 2007 cars can be a little weird sometimes) :p It's as if something is telling the Window ECU that the door has reclosed. My first thought is the microswitch in the doorlatch assembly (although I recall a recent message where wiring checks seemed to disagree with the wiring diagrams).

    How good are you with a multimeter? I think faultfinding can only progress if you do continuity checks on the door microswitches either from the main door hinge connector or at the Window ECU (The latter can be pretty tough on folks with mobility issues, the former needs the door to open as wide as it can go). Continuity checks can help avoid having to remove the door card.

    Here's a 360 Passenger door wiring diagram which should be close enough to a regular 430 diagram:

    https://www.dropbox.com/t/GCDmhbcW5ZkJNNYw

    You will want to do a continuity check between pins 14 & 15 with the door open and again with the door open, but with the latch mechanism pushed into the door "latched closed" position (i.e. with a screwdriver or something so it doesn't bite your fingers). If possible, try to compare it with tests on the driver's door.
     
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  3. Qavion

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    #3 Qavion, Jun 9, 2024
    P.S. Last message edited for grammar and omitted words :rolleyes:
     
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  4. Qavion

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    #4 Qavion, Jun 9, 2024
    I forgot to ask. If your ignition is on, do you get a door open warning on your dash with the passenger door open? This may help you avoid having to do wiring checks. The interior light may be another indication that your doorlatch switch is not working.
     
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  5. Qavion

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    #5 Qavion, Jun 9, 2024
    The doorlatch switch is inside the latch/lock. Not sure it can be replaced without changing the entire latch/lock assembly.

    Driver's doorlatch shown below.

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    Latch microswitch plug circled.
     
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  6. fossilfuel

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    #6 fossilfuel, Jun 10, 2024
    Ian, as always, you are a god-send to this forum! I will get out to the car with your notes and report back. Thank you!

    -mark in austin
     
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  7. fossilfuel

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    #7 fossilfuel, Jun 10, 2024
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    THIS! I totally didn't think about the dash warning, but you nailed it! Dash warning for drivers door only....does nothing when I open passenger door. Sounds like I am taking the door panel off and digging into the door latch .....
     
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  8. Qavion

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    #8 Qavion, Jun 10, 2024
    The chances are it's most likley the microswitch, but the wiring for the switch may be at fault. If you have a multimeter, you could do continuity checks as mentioned earlier. I guess it depends on which is easiest to access.

    Also, the Window ECU plugs have been known to be contaminated. Perhaps even a reset of plug C (the smaller of the bottom plugs on the ECU) might help?

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  9. fossilfuel

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    #9 fossilfuel, Jun 17, 2024
    Once again, Ian (Qavion) for the win!

    I finally got around to chasing my problem down. I tried the easy stuff first--- unplugging / plugging the Window ECU plugs. NADA.

    Then tested for continuity / open on the pins Ian suggested (which I never would have figured out without his generous guidance and diagrams). This test showed no difference door open or door closed at the two pins.

    So, off came the door panel. Not a bad / hard job actually. I got to the plugs/harnesses at the door latch striker box. Tested continuity / open there. It WAS working! No expensive door latch box for me ;-) BTW, I did not see any way to take it apart if I wanted to. There are 3 little phillips screws, but it wont come apart from there (at least I didn't see how).

    Now what? Door lock switch works ....but somewhere between the lock switch and the window ECU, something is amiss.

    Ok, I'll stop teasing y'all..... It was a bent pin (#15 to be exact) in the main door connector --in the door jam from the car harness to the door--the BIG 24 pin connector. Somewhere in the car's previous life, someone had been in there (for a prior crazy stereo install me suspects) and bent the pin that connected one of the door latch switch wires into the car ----> to the door ECU. I gently straightened the pin (thank god it did not fatigue and snap off). I reconnected the connector and Voila!

    In the end, I did not "need" to pull the door panel off after all. But I would never have suspected / diagnosed the main harness connector unless and I trouble-shot it that way. Plus, I got a chance to tighten up the window regulator bolts and grease the track while I was in there.

    I was so excited when I found it, I forgot to take any pics :-(

    Now when I open the passenger door, the window drops a bit and STAYS dropped. The interior light comes on, and the right door open warning shows on the tack display :) All is right with the world!!

    Thanks Ian. (again)

    -mark in austin (fossilfuel)






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  10. Qavion

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    #10 Qavion, Jun 18, 2024
    I'm glad the faultfinding led you to the fault. I don't think bent pins are common on F430 doorplugs. I'll have to add this to my "fault tree".

    Still a win for logic, though.... and team effort. It's good to find someone who knows how to use a multimeter and gives great feedback. :p I need a memory jog from time to time.

    Hit here...

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  11. fossilfuel

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    #11 fossilfuel, Jun 18, 2024

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