Replacing Fuel Pump Supports in the 456M (and boy am I glad I did) | FerrariChat

Replacing Fuel Pump Supports in the 456M (and boy am I glad I did)

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by pchop, Jun 17, 2024.

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  1. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    #1 pchop, Jun 17, 2024
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 17, 2024
    I found myself knee-deep in replacing the fuel pump supports this past week. It wasn't easy but wasn't too difficult either. With the help of fellow forum members @Aerosurfer and @LotusS4, I kept profanities to a minimum and only drank moderately.

    Here are all the parts I used:
    2 x Petrol Pump Support (Fiammenghi Italia)
    2 x Aluminum Fuel Pump Cover (AW Italian Import)
    2 x Fuel Pump Gasket (AW Italian Import)
    2 x Viton Fluoroelastomer Flange Gasket (Amazon)
    2 x PTFE Corrugated Hose 5/16" (Amazon)
    1 x Submersible Fuel Line 5/16" (Any)
    4 x Small Hose Clamps 5/16" (Any)

    You'll also need:
    - Battery Transfer Pump
    - Grease
    - Solder Kit
    - Screw Drivers, Hex Sockets, Joint Socket Adapter, Torque Wrench...and other tools.
    - Locking Ring Removal Tool (Amazon) - which I customized with M6 Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts.
    - Lots of Towels
    - An Appropriate Fire Extinguisher...if you don't understand why you need this, please don't attempt this project.

    Total was around $1,400.

    ***DISCLAIMER: I'm not a professional mechanic, I'm Asian and probably a bad driver...so use this at your own risk.***

    STEP 1: Please make sure you have as little gas as possible (let the fuel gauge be as close to E as possible). Please do this in a well ventilated area and away from any potential flammable source. I did it in my garage with the garage doors wide open. BE SURE TO SHUT THE BATTERY SWITCH OFF.

    STEP 2: Open the Trunk Wall Carpet attached the Luggage Compartment & Fuel Tank Shield. This will pull right off and is attached via several Velcro strips. Some of the strips may come off due to age and will need to be re glued later.
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    STEP 3: Use remove the 17 x 10mm Hex Bolts. Make sure you don't lose the washers. Corner Bolts will need a joint socket adapter to reach. Once this is done, remove the bottom black Angle Piece and carefully remove the Luggage & Fuel Tank Shield and set it aside in a safe place. The bottom of the shield need to face towards you in order to get the shield out of the trunk. Now you should see the exposed Fuel Tank and Pump Covers like this (take a photo):
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  2. pchop

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    #2 pchop, Jun 17, 2024
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2024
    STEP 4: Customize a Locking Ring Removal Tool with M6 Screws (minimum of 1.5" in length), washers and nuts. I recommend using quality screws to prevent bending.
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    STEP 5: Disconnect the fuel lines on each pump by loosing the nut holding the retaining clip. Please have towels ready as there will be fuel dripping out of the lines. Disconnect Fuel Level Indicator Harness in the middle of the tank. Cut the Zip Tie around the fuel lines and the Temperature sensor harness by the left fuel pump cover. Please take a photo and note the approximate depth of the locking rings to the fuel tank opening. Btw, if you smell gasoline in the trunk, most likely you have a cracked fuel pump cover.

    STEP 6: Use the customized Locking Ring Removal Tool and a long torque wrench and loosen the locking rings. It does take some considerable effort to loosen the locking rings. Wiggle around the fuel pump cover and it's probably still stuck on tightly. Use an angled pick tool insert it between the green gasket and the tank opening to loosen the fuel pump cover...you can also simultaneously use a plier and pull on the retainer bolt. Be patient the covers will come off the fuel tank.

    STEP 7: Carefully remove the fuel pumps from the fuel tank. Again, have lots of towels as there will be remnant fuel spilling out from the fuel pump housing:
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  3. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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  4. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    STEP 10: (Do this for each fuel pump) remove the Vent Pipe (looks like a black straw) from the fuel pump and pull the fuel pump from the housing/pan. Remove the 6 screws holding the filter housing and clean the housing. Now you should see the fuel pump support and I'm certain yours will have visible cracks. Remove the metal clamp around the fuel pump support and slice the support apart using a razor blade.
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    As you can see above, my fuel pump support disintegrated. Since the fuel support sits inside of the filter house, this is the reason why we need to change these supports ASAP to prevent the debris from being sucked into the fuel system.
     
  5. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    STEP 11: (Do this for both fuel pumps) install the new Fuel Pump Support. The one I got from Fiammenghi is a perfect fit and you attach it to the fuel pump fit a hose clamp. Screw back on the filter house using 6 screws and insert the fuel pump with support back into the housing/pan.
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  6. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    STEP 12: Now let's replace the Fuel Pump Covers. You will need to remove (by carefully slicing) the old corrugated fuel hose from both ends, and the return line on from the cover to the check valve (off white). Remove the plastic cover from the bracket and attach the aluminum cover. Cut the old fuel pump cable, solder the green wire to the top connector and black wire to the bottom connector. Now attach the new submersible fuel hose (clamp tight) and the new corrugated fuel hose. FYI the corrugated hose goes on by heating the connecting ends and immediately pushing them on...so make sure you heat them adequately...obviously do this far away from the fuel tank. Once done, the fuel pumps should look like this:
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    My old OEM cover has visible cracks on them (see arrows)...which explains why every time after I fuel up, I smell gas in the trunk:
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  7. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    STEP 13: apply light grease around the green fuel pump gaskets and reinsert the fuel pumps into the fuel tank. You will need to push the fuel pump cover to make it seat properly before you can screw the locking ring in place. Apply some grease around the lock ring and screw the ring back in place. Be patient as you can accidentally misalign the locking ring. Use the locking ring tool to hold the cover in place.

    TIP: may wanna rotate the aluminum cover counter clockwise so when the locking ring catches, the cover will rotate to correct orientation.
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    STEP 14: Reattach the fuel lines. Make sure the fuel lines are seated properly...if you see the O-ring you need to file the tip of the fuel line port down. Secure the fuel lines with retaining clip by screwing the nut tightly. Re plug the fuel level indicator and inspect for leaks. If none, please cut the plug that was attached to the original fuel pump cover. Please solder the black wire to the bottom connector and the beige wire to the top connector.
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  8. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    ***MODERATOR : Would you please add the following to STEP 1 in the first POST: "BE SURE TO SHUT THE BATTERY SWITCH OFF"***
     
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  9. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    STEP 15: Turn your battery switch back on and start the car up. Let the car come up to temperature and fuel the car up to about 2/3 full. Drive it around for 5 minutes, park it and see if there's any fuel leak. I waited for two days to be certain.

    STEP 16: Reattaching the luggage/fuel tank shield and luggage wall carpet.

    STEP 17: give yourself a pad on the back.
     
  10. Mirek

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    That was a great tutorial and the first one that gave me a modicum of confidence that I could tackle the job. Good work man and thanks. I had the Fiammenghi surrounds installed too.
     
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  11. F456M

    F456M F1 Rookie

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    Fantastic report of the job.
     
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  12. pchop

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    #12 pchop, Jun 17, 2024
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2024
    Thanks fellas. Just doing my part in giving back to the community. Btw, I apologize for any grammatical and spelling errors. Was in a rush to get this written up. Feel free to send me PM and I'll be happy to help.
     
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  13. 71veedub

    71veedub Formula Junior

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    Thank you for the detailed write-up, I need to do this job!
     
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  14. Jaredsalinsky

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    fantastic write-up and like Mirek said I feel like I could go do this right now without any issue. So when the time comes.....
    Again, thanks..
     
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  15. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    Welcome! Anyone with this fuel pump support setup needs to do it ASAP to avoid a pretty expensive fuel system repair down the road.
     
  16. Jaredsalinsky

    Jaredsalinsky Formula Junior

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    Shoot- I guess really the only way to know if you have this issue was to open it up and check. And then once you’re there you may as well replace everything.

    I know at one point about 10 years ago there was a repair/replacement on my fuel system With the fuel pumps, but I don’t have an exact detailed record. Sounds like I’ll be checking on this soon enough…
     
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  17. Aerosurfer

    Aerosurfer Formula 3
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    Fantastic write up! Glad I was able to offer some guidance and advice for you! You did a great job though.

    For anyone else, if you don't know... then it's time. Just do it. Once you get started, it's a mostly Intuitive operation.
     
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  18. 71veedub

    71veedub Formula Junior

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    Agreed. Last couple years have been kinda crazy and fell behind on my fun cars, but I'm slowly making progress.. the 993tt and 512TR are in line ahead of the 550 as they are closer to being driveable, but yeah I plan to do this before driving the 550.
     
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  19. Auraraptor

    Auraraptor F1 World Champ
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  20. pchop

    pchop F1 Rookie
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    we got a pair of 12” long corrugates ptfe fuel lines.
     
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  21. DrDweeb

    DrDweeb Karting

    Nov 30, 2013
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    An excellent report ... this task is undoubtedly in my future :( (or more accurately, some random wrench's future).
     
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  22. paulchua

    paulchua Cat Herder
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    I tip my hat to you sir, and want to say a big thanks for posting this. Great work!
     
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