1980 Ferrari 400 Auto (Carb) Chassis 27919

The car showed up yesterday, a day early! I got it home, immediately put a new horn button on, and then took it for a short drive to start figuring out what to tackle first. The upper driver side timing cover leaks pretty badly, the only thing actively leaking that I could find, though there are a few others weeping, but I'll start there. Do the cam covers have to come off to re-seal? It looks like the large o-rings that mate the timing cover to the cam covers might be difficult to seal with them installed, though the cover came off without issue and they're still pliable, so can they be fed into the groove on the timing cover and then the cover slowly be lowered to seal up properly? Otherwise, surprisingly there are little issues I could tell. The trans seemed a bit reluctant to shift and there are a couple of wet spots on the radiator not even from the repair area, it's completely shot, so that will be the next thing to tackle. I figure if I get this oil leak fixed I can actually start tuning the carbs and driving it a bit without risk of it lighting itself on fire.

 

Normally you have to cut the big O-ring, see the WSM for the corresponding explanation. The angle between the cam covers and the timing chest is definitively a location were a dab of sealant makes your life easier as the seal is never perfect. Not sure what others are doing, but as far as I am concerned it's always a leaky place here!

 

Well, I attempted to re-seal the upper timing cover and it didn't work, still leaking right where it meets the cam cover on the very bottom. Looks like I'm going to have to do the whole cam gasket on that side which should be 3-4 hours of cleaning RTV off if it's anything like the timing cover....Should I attempt to thread new seals through where the timing cover meets the cam cover? The existing seals were cut as you mentioned. That looks fairly fraught if theyr'e a tight fit...both getting the old ones out and the new ones in place. I did liberally apply sealant in the corners but did not seal.

 

My mechanic uses a black sealant (hondabond?). I prefer hylomar sealant in a spray can. Does not leak all over the place.

A wood chisel allows to scrap residues.

New gaskets do help. Can't tell how many I've bought...

 

Hey, congrats on the new car! I’ll tell you what that color just looks absolutely amazing, even better in the video while moving.
For the record my carbed 400 also has the choke disconnected.
And if you get a message from BAT about someone inquiring as to whether this will be parted out or fixed the answer is obvious. That was me looking for a part. My dumbass never looked on here to see that you might have started a thread, which you did.
Congrats again, and enjoy the restoration! These cars truly are masterpieces. Kinetic works of art…

 

I wrestled the radiator out, had to remove the hood. There was no way to get it far enough to the rear of the car with the trans and oil coolers there. Local shop says they can rebuild it, so I'll get it there this week. While it's out I'm going to clean the front of the engine and see if I can reseal the upper timing covers. I'm also going to flush the system as there was a decent amount of gunk in the lower radiator hose. That and new tires should be enough to actually get it on the road.

 

Be VERY careful when you put the hood back on. Having it too far forward can catch the hood on the front body work, damaging the lip on the front of the hood. Ferrari used an aluminum sheet wrapped around the front hood framework. If it is damaged, it is quite difficult to fix. Ask me how how I know about this!
Good progress. Love the updates.

 

Bad news on the radiator - it's too far gone to be fixed. I'll have to either shell out $3k+ for a new Ferrari one or build/modify a custom one. Going to see if I can find an aluminum radiator with the correct dimensions and at least either inlet or outlet in the correct place, then take to my buddy's shop to have the other moved and a bung for the temp sensor added. If not, I'll just bit the bullet on a new one (ouch!).

 

sucks, but alas with a new radiator you've all but eliminated any future cooling problems...
keep the old one so the car at least 'still has all the original stuff' even if on the shelf...

 

Pete - I would think a good radiator shop could build one from scratch for less than 3K. Did you check with Bill at GT Car parts here in Phoenix?
My car's radiator was a special order "large" unit since the car went to Saudi Arabia when new. It came from the factory that way, and unlike my previous C4, has never run hot even in the weather here.
Good luck.... could be a real challenge.

 

I did call them about that and the side window, still waiting for a call back. I think Griffin will make custom radiators for around $1500. There are also a few aftermarket Honda radiators that are close, and I have a friend with a tig that can make some modifications if need be. We'll see what I can dig up now that I have the old one back so I can get dimensions.

 

Maybe this would work. Good seller, I'm told.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202511448976?itmmeta=01HZD1RZJQMGBGP3P8FAN6HMM6&hash=item2f269f7b90:g:VAkAAOSwy3Jb9tLb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0JjMf%2B2nfEwvbFw01q9NtFXf8c%2B2gC%2F5nT9KLtLp2oQ2Yfz37UACSk2vEnalBnCbhewfKR%2BqTSc71g%2B%2BeXhoFZWZUhgL1awcd3%2BhtmUm5fbVTK7SbJuHWC548imesYkdFCVZOtEdH2mrBCOsSY8CBUQabvjhHo0jNG0x843B5Pu8Y2EJ80HqSb9kucSXi8teNQtFiIt%2FkvhTeBIRgxtvsNUrxlsw%2FmlfEmw4RdJoE%2Bf6VgxRv08BGZGGj52nwmEgqqJZlTFQI%2BDHbevKQ43Jb1w%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9L546H7Yw

 

Good find! I'll give it a try.

 

As a quick update, I have the used radiator and ds glass sitting in my garage waiting for install, will be installing them this week and hopefully driving by the end of the weekend!

 

I hope you have given the radiator a good clean and pressure test before installation.

 

New and old radiator are at the radiator shop, the bracketry is almost completely different on the new radiator so needs to be swapped over from old to new. Hopefully will have it later this week so I can install over the weekend. Eventually I'll get a radiator in it...

 

Welp, the radiator is in the car and mostly fits. I had to cut some excess brackets off - first time taking a cutoff wheel to a Ferrari, which was fun - but it's sitting in the car. Next I need to source new hoses and then flush the system before filling and (hopefully) it will be ready to drive. I also re re-sealed the DS front upper timing cover with (hopefully) the correct permatex, we'll see how that holds. I tried to pressure wash off as much sludge and grime off of the front of the engine as possible in hopes of easily pinpointing any further links. I'll post some pics once the radiator is hooked up, but at least some progress.

 

So things did not go as planned - the water pump is completely clogged with debris and dried coolant, so now I'm opening that can of worms....Hopeful the engine doesn't have to come out but if it does, no biggie, it'll be a good winter project and then I can restore the engine bay. I know I'm doing a bad job of posting pics but they're not very exciting, just radiators and hoses.

 

Good on you for doing the right thing for a classic beauty like the one you have. There really is no other way for such a vehicle…

 

If you work on the coolant pump, makr your best to replace the short output hose. It is so tefious to replace that in most cases it is just as okd as the car.

A thin walled silicon hose make this somehow easier.

 

Oh yeah, that thing certainly looks crusty! My goal is to just get it running and driving - I will then go about more stuff of that sort - like replacing every single vacuum, trans cooling, ps, and fuel hose etc. I have all new hoses for the rad and thermostat I was able to piece together relatively easily from off the shelf parts store stock. I may tackle that hose while I'm in there as it doesn't look too bad honestly, cut the old one off then get the replacement just the right length so it can be slid up one side and then back down with just enough hose for the clamps to grab. This thing honestly is not that bad to work on, just requires a bit of patience and if something looks like it's going to be in the way, just proactively remove it instead of trying to work around it. It's when you don't do that last part that you make things difficult as I found with trying to maneuver the radiator with the ancillary coolers still installed.

I currently have a buddy's Mondial 3.2 on my lift for a clutch, so will get the 400 back on there this weekend but it's been a bit slow going, just doing a little work on it when I have spare time and motivation, though with the weather cooling down a bit it's prime season for me to be out wrenching!

 

It's been a while since I've had a chance to really dive in on the 400, but got down to it this weekend. My buddy came down and our goal was to get to the bottom of the cooling system issues, and we did exactly that...
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So short story appears to be that us filling it with water and firing it up caused it to pick up all the dried coolant and corrosion debris, then deposit them into the water pump as the water slowly drained from the radiator leak. A subsequent startup (either to load/unload the car from transport or when I was messing with it) caused the pump driveshaft to break in the solidified debris that was clogging the pump. After removal, the front pump cover is destroyed as it was corroded to the pump housing and had to be pounded out from the back side once the pump was off the engine, the pump housing itself is probably usable but not great, and the impellar and other parts are surprisingly fine, minus the busted shaft. So, I need a front pump cover and shaft along with water pump rebuild - bearings are fine and it was not leaking at all into the oil or vice versa but should get a new seal. I've been able to find all of it except the pump cover, but will start calling around to see if I can procure one. While it's out I'll reseal the front timing cover and inspect the timing chain/tensioner etc and give everything a good cleaning.

Pulling that engine was a major PITA, one of the worst I've ever done but in the end we got it out with no damage to anything except a spark plug wire pulled out of one of the distributor caps. Let me know if anyone wants a proper step by step as if I had one, it would have taken around 8 hours less than it did.

 

Congrats. Good thing you found the problem. Still enjoying watching this journey.

 

Check with GT car parts here in Arizona for a pump cover. Bill Young. 623 780 2200.
You may be able to repair the cover with JB weld..... don't laugh, as Bill Rudd (a great engine builder) did it on my previous C4 rebuild.... and I watched him do it.
Make sure you put the pump seals in correctly. If backwards, you'll dump coolant in the oil. Ask me how I know.
Good luck. Love following this thread.