Hi, I need a place for my lift switch. Actually I'm using a remote added to the existing key ring on the fob. Not the most convenient to use especially when you need to reach it under column while arriving fast on a speed bump. My lift switch is ready, I just need some room to fit it in. Image Unavailable, Please Login My first idea was to find a way to modify the wiring to use only one switch to lock and unlock the doors instead of two as it is stock, but it seems too complicated. So... which switch to ditch? -the suspension one? I don't use it (can't feel the difference between sport and comfort mode). But it looks cool. -the fog lights switch? I never used it either, but I might need it one day. -same for the rear window defrost one. - central lock switch? This is the one I'm using the most, but I can lock the doors with the lock knob. (obviously I have to keep the release lock switch so I didn't include it in this poll) So, what's your opinion about his?
Rear defrost. I mean, I doubt you will drive it in the freezing weather or iced over. I have only ever used the fog and suspension switches in nearly 10 years of ownership on multiple 355’s. I would leave it plugged up and laying under console. Or extend wires and put near ashtray - you can get to it if you ever had too…. My thoughts on keeping it looking stock, yet you know what has changed. Looking forward to pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I too chose the central lock. You’ll still have your central unlock which seems to be more important. Nice!
I can't say I would miss the Sport comfort setting on a 3-pedal car. The 355 suspension seems pretty soft already. If you leave the OEM wiring intact, you can always change your mind and use another switch. To me, the lock switches are a safety issue. I don't think I would be messing with those. What do the laws say about foglights and rear window demisters?
OK it's done. Bye bye the suspension switch; hello the lift switch! Image Unavailable, Please Login There is a slight variation in color unfortunately, but I think it looks much cooler than this (not my car): Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not so well... I blown a fuse yesterday, changed it and it was OK, and then today the whole system is out of order. Having a lot of trouble just for this switch. I guess using this switch directly by bypassing the control unit is no good. There must be a safety in this control unit, when arriving on top setting that is cutting current. Something that can't be when going manual.
Looking at the other switch, the size and the style. It definitely has some feedback or control of some type. It provides a brief signal to the controller and internal feedback. The factory style 355 rocker switch probably provides too much voltage? Basing this on my experience with my 458 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did you blow a car fuse or a fuse associated with the lift kit? I didn't realise you were bypassing a controller. Does this mean you were putting the full electrical current of the lift system through the switch? Even the Ferrari F50/Enzo uses a control unit (P/N 161589)
I connected the switch directly to 2 +wires that go from the control box to the UP valve, and the DOWN valve. The control box + is from the inside fusebox (red wire). Image Unavailable, Please Login Yesterday I changed the light blue fuse and it worked again. Today it's not working. The fuse is OK but there is no + from this wire anymore. I guess something else went down.
Is the lift kit switch designed the same as the Ferrari switch? Why didn't you tap into the switch wires going to the control unit. What is the fuse powering? Does fuse power go to one side of the switch in your current setup? Is there a wiring diagram available (online) for the lift kit? We don't have diagrams for either the Ferrari system or your system at the moment.
There is no wires to the control unit with the Roberuta switch. Only remote control. The fuse is powering the control unit only.
I think something must be lost in translation here. If the Roberuta switch wires go straight to the valves, what is the function of the Roberuta controller and what is it connected to? What is the OEM switch providing to the Roberuta valves? Volts or earths?
I mean there is nothing physicaly between the remote and the control unit. The only way to control the lift kit is wireless, (or the buttons on the control box but those those are for emergency only) The control unit is sending + alternatively to both valves to activate them. So, to control the lift with a wired switch I had to bypass the control unit and send the + directly to both the UP valve and the DOWN valve (I added some wires from my switch to the wires coming from the control box to the valves. Everything was in order. Unfortunately neither my friend (who knows about electric), or myself, thought about a safety that could disconnect the system to avoid overload. First I blown a fuse on the fusebox, but now, I don't have anymore + coming from the fusebox were the red wire is connected.
Oh man!! That was a bad idea. You could have reworked the switch to send the wireless signal. A couple of ways to work it. But it was never designed for 12v direct. It has a controller. It is a remote and not switched for a reason - ease of install in multiple vehicle types. Definitely microprocessor controlled. Please don’t take this the wrong way…. You spent all of this time wanting and creating a factory like switch, but no consideration of the operational requirements and input signal understanding. It could be as little as 3-4v signal or less it is input with, then the controller powers the pump for ram actuation. I am sure you are realizing this now. You need to put the switches back and build a small mount for branded switch and hide it in the ashtray. Open ashtray use switch, close ashtray. Problems solved. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As you can see I’m not an electrician specialist So I asked some help from one. Unfortunately he didn’t think about this issue either ( by the way, the issue isn’t the voltage: it needs 12v; it is about a safety to cut the current when the lift is on top) Sorry but I don’t want a switch in my ashtray ! This is absolutely inconvenient for such a use. I’d rather keep the remote hanging on my key ring as it is right now. But you said I could control the wireless signal with my oem switch? I’m all ears.
Hey another remote switch and then open it up and see how it operates. I imagine a membrane contact that when pressed connects two circuits on the board. I am not an electrical engineer and my terms are not accurate, but I have down this before in the 12v audio world, etc. solder two wires to the circuit board and when you move your switch if completed that contact. In person I can show this and make sense, but typing it is not ideal for me. I have solved many issues with decent execution be understanding, but it is all in my head and getting to someone is not easily done for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like an expensive way to experiment. Does it look easy to disassembly the remote? Are the remote pushbuttons "push and hold" or "momentary push" (for full range). Is the OEM switch push and hold for both up and down? The OEM switches usually have a common earth (single pin). You may need a wiring diagram for the remote to know if it is compatible with the switch. Do the remote up/down buttons have a common earth?
Both buttons are push and hold type. I don’t know about the rest. Right now my problem is to know why I don’t have anymore +12v from the fusebox where the red wire is connected. I need to fix that before anything else because until it is, I won’t be able to take my car out without a fonctionnal lift system.
I think the “controller” is damaged. Can you post a pic of the wiring diagram for the lift system? Where does the red wire originate and terminate? That is what drives the pump I am sure. I think we can help, but maybe some pictures and diagrams. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you have 12 volts at the fuseholder? Image Unavailable, Please Login Are your turn indicators working?
The red wire doesn’t drive the pump but the control unit. I can’t check my car those days but I think don’t have + from the fuseholder ( or it’s possible I did test it with a bad ground). Need to test again. I didn’t check the turn signal as I was focused on the lift but I will when I’ll return home
I still don't understand how you've wired this up. Image Unavailable, Please Login What is the ECU sending to the up/down valves? Power or earth? If it's sending an earth, where are the valves getting power? What is the new switch sending to the valves (power or earth?). If it's sending power, what is powering the switch?
