Fiammenghi Exhaust + StickyRx Switch

Has anyone installed the StickyRx exhaust switch on the Fiammenghi exhaust valve? No one can seem to tell me the correct way to wire it and I’m not keen on experimenting with the electrical system of a 24 year old Italian car.

 

i have one on a 430 connected using the forza controller with no issues.

 

Did you splice into any pre-existing line or did you run a separate line from the switch to the controller?

 

No idea i barely put gas in my cars

 

So you're not using the Fiammenghi remote (wireless?) system?

What are you trying to do? Create a totally manually controlled system with no input from the Motronic ECU? If you are trying to create a parallel system, the complexity increases 10-fold. Either way, you may have to fool the (RH) ECU that it was still hooked up to the solenoid normally.

I assume you are using the vacuum operated Fiammenghi exhaust valves

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On the OEM system, the RH ECU provides a ground (earth) to energise the solenoid valve (on the grey/red wire, if you can see wire colours). The WSM doesn't specify if the activating the solenoid valve closes or opens the exhaust valve. On the 355, activating the solenoid opens the valve. On the 360 and 430, the solenoid closes the exhaust valve when energised.

With your new exhaust, what happens to your exhaust (car idling) if you:
A) disconnect the electrical plug on the OEM solenoid valve?
B) disconnect one of the vacuum hoses on the vacuum capsule?

 

My mechanic claimed Fabio’s remote install was too complex compared to the capristo remote so he used the capristo remote set up.

I think a few of us discussed this in the Fabio thread? I’d have to check.

 

He now produces a simple "plug and play unit" that plugs into the solenoid with a remote control. Easy as, I installed it myself and works perfectly

 

That would be lovely cause from memory I think the capristo remote charge with install was $900. I was just so excited to have the valved Fabio I didn’t care.

 

After buying a very expensive switch which matches the other switchgear in the car, I imagine @BarthVader is pretty intent on using the "non-remote" option (???). That means he'll have to string a wire from the switch all the way to the solenoid valve (as well as wiring up the switch backlighting, which should be somewhat easier).

 

Eric- My techs in Albuquerque had no trouble with the Fabio remote install. Different principle from most others but works great.

Need to ask Fabio how to hard wire it to the converted blank switch on the center panel.

 

If he does go with the long wire option.... The circuit would probably look something like this:

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Cut the grey/red wire and splice in a long wire to the switch (shown in purple). The wiring would have to be confirmed with voltage or continuity checks and by doing the checks in post #6. With the grey/red wire cut, the RH Motronic ECU would no longer see the solenoid. This might generate a fault code or, worse case, a CEL. You may have to add a 50 ohm (?) resistor to the wire and earth it.
Do NOT leave the grey/red wire from the ECU hooked up to the solenoid plug.


Sockets are easily found for the switch switch

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/325435772857

With the remote option, at least you don't have to cut into OEM wiring... unless you still want to use the OEM-looking switch.

 

On my car, i no longer use the rear connector and electronic valve. I put the vacuum hose directly to the T which supply vacuum to both exhaust valve actuators. Instead, I installed a brand new electronic vacuum valve beside the battery in the engine compartment on the vacuum line which goes backwards from the vacuum acumulator tank which is installed under the battery and ran the ground wire directly to the battery and the + through the fire wall to the lazer engraved «EXHST» switch I bought from Car Plastix in Prague. So my system is completely manual. I always drive with the valves open, and if I come very late home at night or go in an underground car park with small children inside it etc., I just close the valves and the car is dead quiet. I installed self-made «silencers» into the pipe of the mufflers which is still open when the exhaust valve butterfly is closed to further reduce noise when the flap is closed. My FUCHS rear mufflers are a bit noisy even if the flaps are closed, so decided to make a «restrictor» with opposite facing baffle walls and installed them into the outside pipes of the mufflers. My switch is backlit and dimable together with the rest of the instrument lightning. The supply power wire for the solenoid valve is taken from the fuel fill door opener, so the switch can stay in «ON» position all the time, but is only energized when the ignition is on, otherwise it would drain the battery.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaAWQgIqnBUFhpiPZpc_h4wPk9-zCTwYMuO5Ag0/?igsh=MXU5eHRidGN4dW1vaA==

 

There is a thread explaining this more in detail here somewhere. The reason I don’t car to use the original automatic opening of the valves is because the 550 ECU open the valves far too late (if I remember correctly only at 73% throttle opening if over 3000 rpms., and always above 5000 rpms. The V12 engine is so powerful that while normal driving, I never reach those levels and the valves never opens, while one the never Ferraris, they open very early….
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On the OEM 550 system, does applying the vacuum to the capsules on the exhaust valves open or close the valve?

I don't quite follow you. What is the ground wire? Does it go from the negative terminal of the battery to the solenoid, like this:

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Did you move the switch down for soft or loud?

 

my Fiammenghi system uses a remote on my key chain.

 

Ian- The Maranellos have fail-closed valves so vacuum holds them open. Later Ferraris went to a fail-open system with vacuum holding them closed.

 

Thanks, Terry
Now all we need to confirm is that the new Fiammenghi exhaust valves do the same thing. When folks fit Capristo valves, it converts them to fail-open, but you need the Capristo solenoid to go with it. The Fiammenghi exhaust may do the same. I'm surprised there are no downloadable manuals for these exhaust systems (or at least I couldn't find any on their site).

 

Pulling the switch down (towards you) make the valves open. The ground wire is one of the pins on the solenoid. When you engage the switch, you give + to the other pin of the solenoid, and then the vacuum makes the valves open. I hope the solenoid don’t suddenly fail at 330 kph. and 7000+ rpms., because that would make a huge back pressure and possibly damage the engine. The solenoid valve is a Pierburg unit bought from a BMW 3-series for 30 euro, so not expencive to change out every three years to ensure it will not fail. But it is pretty simple stuff. Anyhow, my old solenoid did not work so they can fail.

 

So, possibly like the diagram I posted. That means that if you leave the switch ON with the car parked, the solenoid would slowly drain the battery.

That's why I don't understand why people install purely manual switches. If you forget that you have the valve selected closed and then go racing...

 

The fuel flap opener only works wheb the ignition i ON and that is why it will not drain the battery. In my car it is left ON all the time. No problems.

 

Your fuel flap opener is left on all the time? Or your exhaust valve?

I don’t understand the comparison between your fuel flap filler and your exhaust valves. Even if the flap button was hooked up directly to the battery, it would only be drawing current when you pushed the button/switch.

The solenoid current is probably only around 200mA, but aren’t you worried about longevity?

 

The 550 must be different from the 575M, where the filler door opens fine with the ignition off. I believe 360s also only worked with the ignition on.

 

I think this was only on the 360 Spiders. Perhaps an extra level of security if you wanted to park with the top down.

 

On my euro 550 («completely» original), the fuel filler door can only be opened when the ignition is in ON position. So the + power supply to the fuel door opener also gives power to the solenoid valve for the exhaust. That way, the exhaust flaps can only open if the ignition is in ON position. This is why my exhaust switch can stay in ON position all the time without draining the battery. And if the flaps for some reason do not open, I can see if the fuel flap door opens to veryfy I have power to the switch.