No idea. Ferrari never tell you where the splices are. I would just add a local splice. The black wire carries low current. Yes, the big white connector. I would worry about repinning the connectors on the relay panel. I would only try to repin the dryer harness and add a single splice in the green/black and blue/white wiring (EDIT: I mean one splice per wire, not one splice for both wires)
Do you mean connectors A & C on the relay panel? If you replaced the wires, you would have to replace the contacts (sockets) on the relay panel connectors (A & C). That's what I mean by re-pin (re-pinning). If you break the plastic tabs on the connectors, you will have to re-pin all the wires on these two relay panel connectors. For example, if you wanted to repair the blue/white (LB) wire would you choose A), B) or C) Image Unavailable, Please Login
All right thanks, i didn't know relay panel connector was not easy tu work on it. Thanks a lot for your help, i will give some news when wire will be redone
One of the dryer switch 4 wires is ground so, if the wire in the harness that goes to the relay S (rad/evap fan) is touching the ground wire in the melted harness, that is the culprit causing your fan to run erratically. I believe everything will be fine when you clean-up the mess. As to your new inline resettable fuse, make sure that the thick brown wire ends are clean (the copper, when you strip the insulation, is not corroded or darkened due to overheating) and that they sit tight in the fuse sockets. After stripping the insulation, I would first solder tin on the wire ends (put as much tin as the fuse socket allows) then insert and tighten them up in the fuse. If the fuse socket diameters are considerably bigger than the wire diameter, you can strip insulation over longer section, fold the copper end and cover it in tin.
