1987 328 gts resurrection

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Is this what you're needing? It's from my '89, but might be the same.

 

lol. I’m not removing the dash to plug some wires in.

Yes! Thank you. Much appreciated. That is not even close to what I have. Thanks again!

 

Junior - if it's just "plugging some wires in," it should be easy for you and you probably have it figured out by now.

BTW, did you search FC to look for answers to your big ignition switch mystery? (which is the least of your problems based on the pics you posted)

 

old man - yes I searched. Got my answer above without the unnecessary semantics. Thanks.

 

It cranks!!!! Thanks to a member here who private messaged me and walked me through the whole thing. Amazing. I didn’t have to disassemble the whole car or buy more books. . Basically hooked it up like so, with the exception of the red wire with blue connector and electrical tape (no wire connected on this pin “R” ) and the brown wire (abs).
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Cleaned this thing up and got it reinstalled. Almost vroom time!!
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Couple of updates. Dropped the Oil and Gear box pans to re-seal. Figured I would do the seals, rubber boots and silent blocks on the shift shaft while I was in there. Not too bad just be careful pressing in the new silent blocks. I ruined one and had to wait 3 weeks for a new one. Put the silent blocks in the freezer and immediately press them in when you remove them from the freezer. Also adjusted the shift forks to get them right on as per the write up in here. Search for "Shift fork adjustment".

Had two small pin holes in the passenger tank that I cleaned up, and sealed with Quicksteel.

Pulled all the aftermarket alarm BS out of the car, and the stereo and all wiring. What a mess!! Now at least it tries to start. Does a quick run up to 2k RPM then drops, stumbles and shuts off. Im hoping there just isn't enough fuel in it. Only about 1.5 gallons from completely dry. Next is putting more fuel in and seeing what happens. If no change, ill be back here asking for advice why it wont keep running. Fuel Pump is good and running as it should. Pics to follow.

Seats and console are out as well. The console needs some love. Some missing plaques, knobs, weirdly spliced wires underneath, filthy dirty all around. I also broke the small pitot tubing going to the thermostat switch in the consol. Flush with the switch. Seems like that line goes to the TXV Valve? How do I fix this or is there a replacement? Upgrade?

Thanks for all of the help and for following along! Enjoy.

 

Pics
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pics 2
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Running Vid.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOwFNsmQR8dTDchF3wacAOZ1z187Q7CBcJJ6TKl

 

Pic of console before removed. All the plaques are upside down from what I’ve researched. man idk who messed with this car but I’m starting to think it was Ray Charles.
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Should clean up nice. Less the holes and rips.
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When you took the console off (seemingly intact) and laid it to the side to work on the shifter, did you only have to remove the four screws holding it down to the floor? I could swear there were another 1-2 hidden screws that required taking out the switch panel first, but that is going off memory from what I have read over the years. If it's just the four screws and there is enough slack in the harness to just lay it over on one piece, that would be nice.

I want to replace the shift shaft seals on my car at some point, but was not looking forward to pulling the console apart since I really hate mingling interior work with mechanical work outside the car . The interior on my 87 328 was redone by the last owner, and is so pristine I am reluctant to tear into it more than I have to.

 

Yes. Just the 4 screw and loosen up the "Front Console" thing as well. Another 4 bolts. Be sure to mind the TXV pitot tube when you lay it over. That's how mine was at least. Im sure that this has been taken out and put back several times over the years and likely, not 100% back original. I would start with the 4 screws and go from there.

 

There's no need to take the console out when replacing the shift shaft seals. Everything can be done from underneath the car.Whilst your doing that work, go for X rings, rather than O rings. X rings will last much longer.

 

And you can replace the middle seal even without taking of the engine cover, just the gearbox cover.

 

Correct. Both posts are correct. However, if you want to do the silent block bushings, you need to remove the console. BUT. My car has 80k miles on it, and i listened to the keyboard mechanics all screaming "Change the silent blocks"........... They were both fine with no wear and didnt need to be changed, But i had the parts and the thing apart. So i did.

 

After sump pans are off did you see, was there much sludge ?
I am considering an engine flush for mine but not sure yet.

 

What I've heard is that it is going to be challenging to slide the internal shifter rod all the way out of the engine/transmission with the shift shaft still connected to the shifter and dangling under the car. Some people either remove the console and disconnect the shift shaft from the shifter so it can be pulled forward out of the way, or they loosen the engine mounts and slightly pivot the engine so the internal shifter rod can slide past the shift shaft.

I did buy new silent blocks so I was leaning towards pulling the console out since that would kill a couple birds with one stone. I don't know that my silent blocks necessarily need replacement, and for that matter the forward shift shaft seal barely leaks (like one small drop on the floor if I don't drive the car for 2-3 weeks). But there is a little bit of slop in the shifter and going into 2nd has initial resistance about half the time (separate from the well-known cold-transmission characteristic) so I sort of want to chase down all the possibilities. That would include cleaning out the shifter box and then re-lube it. I've always felt like the occasional resistance I feel going into 2nd is happening in the shifter and not the transmission.

 

I've also read what you say about removing the shift rod, but it came out of mine without having to do any of the things you mention (above). It is a tight squeeze but no force was needed to do it this way. When your putting it back it is well worth using a tapered tool, which is the same diameter as the shaft, to ease the shaft over the seals. This prevents seal damage and makes reassembly much easier. I used X rings to replace the O rings. When your in there also make sure all the selector fingers are correctly aligned. There's plenty about this on the forum, and could explain some of your gear shift concerns. Also take care in reassembling the dip stick tube. The union should have a copper washer between it and the block. The dipstick tube needs a dab of sealant where it sits against the union, otherwise it may leak.
Re the silent blocks, my car had done 55,000 miles and these were as good as new. I did replace the one exposed to road grime, but it didn't really need doing. Be wary of replacing rubber items such as this. Sometimes, due to dubious sourcing tactics by suppliers, the new ones are less functional than good condition original parts!
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As the shifter internals are just a ball in socket design it seems unlikely the 2nd gear reluctance is in the shifter. Much more likely to be in the gearbox. Still a good idea to remove, clean and lube the shifter every few decades. It's also possible your choice of gearbox oil is having an influence on shift quality.

 

Not much sludge at all. Just pretty baked on oil. Very thin layer but I used about 8 cans of break cleaner and a brush to get it clean as seen in the pics. I doubt a flush would benefit anything. If i had to do it again, i would hot tank the whole sump, or take the baffles off at least.

 

Agreed, unlikely to be in the shifter. My understanding is that there is a mod to drill the gearbox housing in order to address the second gear issue, but some really knowledgeable people here indicate that isn't going to fix the issue except on the earliest cars (GT4, etc). It seems people have good luck running Redline MTL and that's what I'm planning to try in my QV.

 

MTL made a notable positive difference in my car over whatever was in there when I bought it.

 

Ok. I need some help figuring out why this car wont stay running. It will start, idle, can rev it up a few times, but whether you let it idle or are at 6,000 RPM's, it will die after 2-3 seconds. When trying to re-start it, it will not run. I have to wait 30 seconds to a minute, at which point it will start, idle and rev again. But again, dies after 2-3 seconds. What could be the issue here? Accumulator? This is not my wheel house (Ferrari systems) so any help would be appreciated in troubleshooting