1987 328 gts resurrection

Can you post any video ?

 

are you loosing power at fuel pump?

 

There's an electrical safety switch in the fuel distributor that switches off the fuel pump when ignition is on but engine isn't. I would check that your getting fuel when ignition is in on position, not cranking position but engine is running. The switch is connected by a small blue plastic clip on type terminal. Disconnecting it allows the fuel pump to run when ignition switch is turned on.

 

did you clean out the fuel system - no blockage in the filter/lines? In-tank filter? It seems the car is burning through available fuel then starving.

I dont think coolant/gear oil level would make a difference but I admit I dont have a lot of experience with these cars running (mine is in pieces).

There was another recent post about the fuel pump relays but if your pump is running then the relays aren't likely the issue.

 

No coolant? Like zero water? Dry cooling system?

 

Long shot, but you aren't pulling a vacuum in the tanks? The accumulator you referred is just a spring loaded diaphragm inside a canister. If the diaphragm is leaking fuel will leak out of the breather,which is at the top of the canister. You can often hear them slightly creaking (need a silent space) as the diaphragm moves when the engine is first turned off and the fuel pressure gradually reduces.
If you've got a CIS test kit, I would put this on the system to see what happens to fuel pressure when problem arises.
No after market weird immobilizer fitted?

 

I saw you used a flushing system. It is difficult to know the amount of old fuel varnish in these tabjs when they’ve been sitting this long. Might be worth pulling your new fuel filter to check if it’s gummed up again and you’ll have your answer.

 

Doesn't answer the question, I'm still not sure if you're saying the system is dry or filled with old water.

 

Running an engine with a dry cooling system is not good at all for the water pump seals. Hopefully you had the water pump belt removed.

 

Plunjer in the fuel distributor stuck in closed position. ?!

 

What was wrong?

 

Floating liners without any coolant to mitigate heat. Yeah it'll run for a short bit, wouldn't want to do that for more then 20-30 secs tops. Aside from the water pump seals going, the heat of combustion is going to cause expansion that will seize the rings, guides etc..
Priority at this point would be to sort the cooling system.
I don't understand why you'd want to run the engine without coolant. There's a reason the coolant system is very large on these engines.
The CIS also utilizes coolant sensors for optimal running.

 

this happened to me recently a stuck plunger causing fuel distributor to dump a lot of fuel flooding the cylinders thereby soaking the spark plugs ,w/c results that when the engine is started it starts momentarily then it shut downs .

 

You could try disconnecting the cold start injector from the circuit. Rules out of it's trying to run solely on that or if it's flooding the engine.
The other issue could be the location of the flapper door, if it's too high it'll restrict air. Usually getting another helper can help with this but having someone else crank to start while using a thumb or finger to slightly depress the air door down to see if it'll run and not using the throttle.

Are the plugs dry or wet after trying to get it start and run? What's your compression numbers? Leak down? It's not ideal as the engine is cold.

It was running prior for longer but then stopped doing so?