Head removal gt4

This is common. You need to heat cycle them, get the head very hot with a big propane torch, use a heavy soft-head dead blow hammer from Harbor Freight or wherever. Strong wood 2 x 4 under the correct safe areas, whack whack with big heavy dead blow. May take a few heat cycles. You won't do it with use penetrating oil, heck I don't think that does anything in these situations.

torch:

https://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-91033.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12129614380&campaignid=12129614380&utm_content=128613442307&adsetid=128613442307&product=91033&store=202&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuaCc-L_KiAMV2ElHAR3c_gnvEAQYASABEgJBM_D_BwE

 

Concern about warping the head with this much heat?

 

I mean, don't get it absurdly hot, but up around operating temp or just a bit more. So 200-230F or so. Use an infrared temp gun to check while heating so you don't go overboard.

 

I use 300 F as a limit. Done it many times.

We know coolant goes to 200-230 with no damage. When coolant is 230 the metal is much hotter.

We ran a Rodeck at Bonneville at 260-270 water temp many many times.

Needs to be heated through and through. Hard to imagine getting that job done with a propane torch. Might as well use a cigarette lighter.

Might as well pee on it as use penetrating oil.

 

A small propane torch, yeah it's not happening, but a big one like I use? No problemo. Use it to superheat blocks to fit interference liners too.

 

Or make a puller jig.

 

Try the rope trick:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/observations-on-a-gt4-engine-pull.458208/

 

or use a puller: https://www.dinoparts.com/en/detail/index/sArticle/20266

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