A GENUINE KIND of gear replacement for 63307100 f355 timing actuator

We all know that f355 timing actuator 63307100 is discontinued and NLA. Although few genuine new and second hands could still be found but all with crazy price and limited life span. For years, there are threads discussing the broken part and I have seen and appreciate different kinds of way, including Eurospares which need adaptation and ECUdoctor which stopped repairing.

Given it is genuine kind of replacement gears different than others, sorry I have to start a new post to let more hopeless people easily see, it is not meant to replace previous threads.

Mine once replaced at 2015 had been found broken in the last two years. After I bought a good one from Japan with crazy price, found a healthy genuine gear from same outlook cheaper actuator, handmade molding and casting with trial and error and improvements, I have precisely recovered and replicated genuine kind of replacement gears. ...Easy said than done.

The gear from Japan weights 3.4g runs ok but noisy due to off-centering or hard material I think, so I give up using it.

The healthy genuine gear, which I have sourced some, weighs 2.7g will eventually break due to life span, so I give up using them.

Looking into genuine gear, it is two pieces structure and the material of the broken part is different which I believe there must be a reason, so I use the original shaft and recover it to a beautiful genuine kind of gear, 2.5g weight, similar material. solid, smooth and QUIET.

Do not throw away your faulty actuator and broken gear or leave it to the car shop when replacing a new one, especially the shaft , it can be recovered. No worries anymore.
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Yes, short of spare is really really a pain! So there are many chatters herein share experience and help with each other to help ourselves!

 

I have seen many people asking the same thing in other threads.

It depends on which solution you choose. Supposedly they, as far as I know, are offered by the individuals who make it.

If you are referring to the molded genuine kind gear, it is ONLY me I guess but I am not yet thinking about the sales thing. Others like Steve D. mentioned that he offers 3D printed gear which is one piece I believe. And, also as I mentioned in the beginning, I bought one from Japan with issues and it is listed on Japan Yahoo auction and eBay as well but with crazy price. I also bought and leverage same outlook actuators listed on eBay to get some genuine gears but with residual life span.

What is your situation with the gear? You do not have a working gear or you just need a spare?

 

Sorry I did not make myself clear. I have made the genuine kind of gears as picture showed but I am yet thinking about the sales thing.

If people need the genuine kind of gear and want me to offer, I have already several on hand and yes I am ready making them to sell but you will need to send me your shaft as a interchange. Hope I have answered your kind question.

How much would people expect as reasonable? Shoot me a PM please.

 

Yes, I have not considered Eurospares' substitute since I know it needs adaptation but I have no ideas for how.

Thanks to Qavion for helping me explaining one of others like steve D. offers his 3D printed version of solution as I explained earlier. So I said it is peoples' choice.

 

Qavion, with a little bit hope, I am now addressing the potentiometer.

As I said in the very beginning, out of the actuators I have hunted, there are two kinds of actuators, although with different internal gears and outlook, both with five wires as genuine does and both have the same potentiometer .

But the said five-wires potentiometer is different from the one inside f355 genuine actuator. I think you understand much better for the wires and electronic thing, how likely do you think it could be directly interchanged with genuine actuator as a substitute?
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Qavion, so much thanks at first for your prompt response. I have a quick glance and I need to read it thoroughly before I reply to you for every point.

 

So much thanks to your explanation. But I thought controlling the stoppage is what potentiometer does?

 

Are you all referring to the actuators I hunted?

Sorry it is beyond my knowledge to tell or test it is resistive or conductive?

As for the resistances, I can do it but I have no clues where to start since the wire color is different from diagram you draw for the genuine.

 

Actually I have attached battery before to tested the samples alone to see how it operates.

On the socket side, black or purple, different for two samples, and green to potentiometer side brown wires are connected to the motor. Yes you are right, The other 3 wires, orange/blue/white, control three stop positions.

I have now again attached a 12V battery alone to double confirm the behavior with a video recorded, it runs stop-and-go at three positions as below steps. From what I observed, 90/135/135 degrees between three stop positions and totally 360 degrees as a cycle. It seems like no 180 degrees things. I guess it maybe switching (conductive)? But since it is not tested on the car so I do not know what actually happens when connected to the control panel on the car?

1. connected positive to black wire/pin and hold.

2. negative connected to green wire/pin then it moves 90 degrees clockwise and stop.

3. negative switched to connect white it moves a bit and stop,

4. negative switched back to to green, it move 135 degrees to next stop.

5. switch negative to blue it moves a bit and stop.

6. negative switched back to green, it moves 135 degrees to next stop

7. switch negative to orange it moves a bit and stop and back to the position started.

 

Qavion, thank you so much for the prompt confirmation. Yes, very disappointed indeed.

So, is it saying that genuine actuator is potentiometer (resistive) and my samples are switching (conductive) circuit?

As for 3 or 4 stopping you assumed, actually I had recorded the movement of the genuine timing actuator on the car as a video. FYI as the same 6 stages on the knob, it moves like stop-and-go pattern and did stop accordingly 6 times at 6 different positions I think. Unfortunately the file is too large to upload for the time being and I am still trying to find the way to make it smaller.

The 180 degrees range is only for the first time calibration but all stops do not reach the limit position.

Not sure whether anyone else had looked into the rotating pattern on the car for their genuine actuator? Is their's the same as mine?

 

Seems like no one is in the need of the genuine kind replacement gear?