Do you get 5 volts on the pins mentioned in Miro's post #48
Update: car is fixed 100%!!! What did I do??? Well, I got the drivers bank to right at 400 and got the passagers to right at 200... called it good and put it back togather. Cranked it up , let it relearn and boom..no codes..no issues and drives great. Thanks for all the help guys!!!
I have no idea what you mean, but I'm glad you fixed it 200 what? 400 what? millivolts? And how did you achieve it?
I presume you mean Bank 1-4 is 200 mV and Bank 5-8 is 401 mV? Why couldn't you get these readings before? Were the TPS connectors wrongly re-pinned (wires mixed up) or were you taking the readings at the wrong pins? It would be good if you could inform the forum what exactly happened as it could be helpful for somebody else having similar issues. It is a bit surprising that your Bank 1-4 reading is 200 mV whereas, on a brand new TPS, I measured 270 mV as the smallest reading when I did a bench test (at 5.0 V supply to the TPS) and turned the TPS to its internal limit. When on the throttle body, the TPS does not go to its internal limit but is stopped earlier, thus the spec 400-600 mV. What are the Bosch numbers on your TPSs, including the spare/old ones that you tried? Anyhow, your Bank 1-4 reading is way out of spec - it should be 400 mV as a minimum. You also need to set the TPSs so that the voltage reading difference between them is no more than 80 mV (see the extract I attached to post #31). At present, you have a difference of 199 mV which may cause some idling/running issues.
Those numbers are only good for books. I'm not saying that it doesn't have some value but at the end of the day..much like people, motors want to be happy. If happy is a 0.200 mV split is where it's happy, then so be it. The car is now running crisp, no issues,and no codes. It idles perfectly at about 900 and feels right. I see no reason why I should go away from running great just to get the numbers "right" just to hopefully end up in the same spot and that is...running great. I do appreciate yours and everyone's help. It's part if the journey and the fun of owning these cars.
Ian, with regard to the TPS resistances you posted earlier: Image Unavailable, Please Login For your archive, I attach more detailed information and a diagram of the TPS which explains why the resistances are not like in the case of a standard potentiometer: Image Unavailable, Please Login In the case of 348/355, the signs (+) at pin 2 and (-) at pin 1 apply to the LH TPS; on the RH TPS, (+) and (-) are reversed due to opposite direction of rotation.
Thanks for the reminder, Miro. JohnK... posted the image here: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/148248201/ The info is already incorporated into my 2.7 and 5.2 diagrams. I know the OEM Ferrari diagrams were wrong for the F355 5.2 regarding the pinout. I'm still not sure how the F1 car is wired up. It has two plugs on the TPS.
