I turned off my master switch to replace the battery but the everything in the car stayed on? I removed the switch and tested it and when in the off position there is no continuity. I tested the ground side battery terminal to ground anywhere in the car and I have continuity this seems incorrect to me and have no idea where to start looking. It's like the switch is bypassed. is this normal?
Aftermarket equipment wiring may be keeping the car alive. Are there any additional wires attached to the battery ground terminal? Is your battery charger still connected (and is it wired directly to your battery?)
As I recall one side of the switch is common to the body and the mounting screws ground it to the car. If connected backwards it will do that.
Any chance the switch was bypassed? Plenty of reports of these switches going bad and causing problems. Maybe the original owner decided just to bypass it and save the hassle.
Not sure what you mean. Battery negative goes to the cutoff switch (28B side). You just have to figure out which side is which. If you disconnect the battery negative and open the switch, you should only have continuity on one side of the cutoff switch to the chassis. This is assuming the switch is still hooked up to the battery on your car.
Double checked the battery goes to the insulated side (white plastic) and the chassis side goes to the upper non insolated
Ah, I see what you mean... I didn't realise there was an insulated side. Image Unavailable, Please Login Does the metal case touch the chassis, as Rifledriver says?
I would like to follow up on what I found. The CD player was replaced with an Amplifier for stereo system. It was mounted on non conductive material. The Amplifire is wired directly to the battery terminals. This would not be an issue but the case of the amp was touched the chassis so when the master switch was turned off battery power follow though the have gauge wire on the ground to the amplifier and completed the circuit there for bypassing the switch. It seemed odd that there was enough contact to allow the starter to work and the car to run. The fix was insulating the amplifier case from the chassis. The switch now works and the car powers off. Thank you to all who responded.
