Heater control switch 328 part number 6188300

Mine on the passenger side is stuck. Its just the micro switch worn out. A replacement is just stupidly priced. Anyone know someone who fixes these?

 

Maybe reach out to O.D.D Parts.

I was talking to them last year about my heating/ac control issues and they were working on solutions for another customer with similar problems.

 

No idea who might fix them, but the part number should be 61808300

@ $3000 new (but not available), @ $1275 ~ $2030 used, depending on condition.

The heater control switches are just one of those parts you can see are all but guaranteed to fail sooner or later

 

Yes take the switch out and resolder the contacts this was my problem the lights would not move 2 wires came loose working fine now

 

On my switch one of the lights stays illuminated. It’s the first light. Does anybody know why this one light stays on. Otherwise, the switch works fine. All the lights will illuminate as you press the button, but when you try to turn all the lights off, the very first light stays on

 

The lights go one or come off as feed back from rotary contacts on the heater valves and air ducts. They can get out of sync or the valves and ducts can be restricted in movement. There are access holes on the back to adjust pots to sync them.

 

Thanks Brian. Much appreciated.

 

This is a useful document for calibrating the lights.....

 

Excellent. Thanks for posting

 

Are there internal contacts that may be cleaned? replacing at $3000 is much!
On many switches I squirt Wurth OL 'De-Oxidizer spray and it cleans so much

 

not to be a total jerk, but I'm felling pretty smug about my choice of 308 instead of 328 right about now...

 

We did try that. I'm going to try again.

 

I feel like I should provide some value to offset my snark; I've repaired dozens of switches in my old bentley using this (DeOxit 5): Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I have the same problem! (The lights go to the full and can come back to 2 lights, but never to off) do I need to remove the switches before spraying the cleaner? If so, could you provide any information or instructions on how to remove them?.

 

WOW I just bought that exact stuff 2 days ago. Should arrive on Tuesday. I have 3 total switches. One works perfect, one has a problem opening and one has a problem closing. To me its just a contact problem.

I'll report if it helps.

 

Been using Deoxit on all the switches, contacts and connectors on my car for years! It's great stuff!
Alden

 

Because 308's never suffer heater control issues, such as seized cables?

 

Can you remove and disassemble?

 

Yes I saw the micro switches under the cover. I’ll try to spray them on Wednesday.

 

Are you guys spraying Deoxit directly into the interior of the switches, through the crevices?

 

That can be done, that's the way I do it as a maintenance item, but the switch can also be removed and the contacts sprayed directly.
Alden

 

Thanks for your reply. I believe my contacts are already clean, but was wondering if there were things inside the switch casing itself that needed to be sprayed

 

I think it really depends on the construction of the switch, and whether or not the contacts are easily accessible without removal or disassembly, so far all my switches are working fine, even better after I spray them with deoxit, so I guess it's getting in there.
Alden

 

Please recall these switches face up and catch every dusty dirt over the last 40 years and it gets in the switch. Not like dash vertical switches these are positioned to catch it
When i removed the frunk cover to watch the slide switch activate the heater valve it was quite cool but to complicated imho

 

Are you guys also spraying the electrical parts of the heat valve underneath the frunk ?