355 Fiorano Handling Package Vs Challenge Suspension ECU.

As mentioned, the OE manifolds have already been replaced by the previous owner and are on the lower mile side. I didn’t buy them. However, if I wanted to keep OE manifolds, I’d rebuild them for better reliability. But what I did buy are Larini manifolds, which I’m positive functions just as well if not better than the other after-market options for the 355. And yes, I do think they will function better than Tubi manifolds.


I consider looks and function when throwing parts in my car.

 

I can’t think of a part I put on my car that didn’t actually function or function better than the standard part I replaced… and it still looks OE .

 

Once again, you are making assumptions without background of the situation.


This is my second 355. I’ve only put about 100 miles on this car since purchase and before putting on a lift. It was already roughly due for any engine out upon arrival, BUT it only had 800 miles since its last service. According to invoices, all noticeable leaks were addressed. There’s no reason to be alarmed by an original coolant cap, which may or may not be leaking. All engine related concerns will be addressed during the engine out. If a coolant cap leaks, replace it . Why should I be concerned about leaks, header failure on low mileage headers if the car doesn’t even move??


Secondly, it is true headers can be put in while the engine is in, but it is more difficult, particularly installing the passenger side. Dealers quote an 8 hour job. Why should I strain myself if I already have an engine out service planned soon where headers can be swapped in 30 min?


Thirdly, I still have a desire to dyno the car with stock headers to compare dyno graphs when the Larini manifolds are installed. This may or may not happen. Depends on how I feel when I test drive the car. I also gutted the OE Y-pipe and I was curious how it would improve the sound of the X-OST muffler without introducing other variables (different manifolds etc..).


Fourthly, since I am the new owner of the car, I wanted to go over car thoroughly in any area that is immediately accessible separate from dropping the engine. The car also came with painted red calipers I didn’t like, so naturally, brakes were going to be addressed as well.



I’m experimenting and testing things out. Lots of before and afters for personal data. My priorities will be different from yours. Pull up any header thread on Fchat and there’s a 50% chance I’m in it. Yes, I’m well aware of header issues. Replacing (at some point) is already a given. Your manifold concern is a non-concern for me because I already sorted it before I even bought the car. My concern is building a spec 355.

 

Oh, I almost forgot to mention. The car arrived with 3 dampers leaking, so naturally I wanted to overhaul the suspension.

 

Well, stock is fragile unless rebuilt with a better SS grade.

Larini claimed roughly 15hp gain, which I would like to verify if the opportunity presents.

Larini Bespoke shielding should do a better job of keeping the heat in.

Larini headers were 2 lbs lighter than stock on each side .

Larinis are still 4-2-1 design. There’s some hopeful chance they sound better than stock… or not.


Having said all that, if I didn’t already have these I’d go for James Moranifolds .

 

The situation of car was mentioned earlier in the thread if you bothered to read it. You didn’t and you assumed you knew more than I do and that your logic is better.


As mentioned, all engine related issues will be addressed during the engine out. Apparently, the logic of this is difficult for you to understand. What I meant by the “the car doesn’t even move” is the car is already due for an engine out service, implying the engine will be pulled shortly after my suspension and brake overhaul. We’re talking maybe 500 miles. I mean, I do need to drive the car to notice any leaks. Are headers gonna blow up in the next 500 miles? I betcha $10k they won’t. I’ll betcha $10k they’ll last at least another 5k miles. Your concerns are overblown.

The logic is simple. Once the engine out is performed and all leak issues addressed, the car is on a time clock (5 years) until the next engine out. My car has been on a lift for 2-3 years addressing brake and suspension related issues and mishaps due to failed vendors along with the high difficulty of sourcing FHP parts. Had I done my engine out first, I would’ve wasted 2-3 years of belt life with the car being on a lift addressing these issues. I know my car better than you do.


You must be new to 355’s. Stick around longer. Replacing headers is such a beating a dead horse subject it’s below my pay grade. You didn’t reveal anything I didn’t already know 10 years ago. Why don’t you start a thread on concerns of OE headers and see if anyone cares?

Now if you don’t mind, stick to the rookie discussions elsewhere, and let me finish up on more interesting tasks.

 

Replacing a coolant gas cap and headers (while engine is out) I would categorize in the easy task list. They’ll get addressed when the time comes. Implying the tasks are so easy, it’s not of immediate concern (car isn’t currently being driven), not because it’s not important.

Some people prefer to attack the more challenging tasks first, not because they prioritize the importance of it, but because they simply want to get it out of the way.

Hopefully, this is not a difficult concept to grasp

 

Perhaps no one ever taught you proper manners of when and when not to make smartass remarks.

 

You made an attempt to discredit the findings and work being done here simply because you saw I was still running stock headers implying, “look at this idiot spending $$$ on fancy suspension and brakes, but he’s to cheap to buy better than stock headers and a new coolant cap.” I know a smartass remark when I see one. You weren’t genuinely concerned.

I still gave you the benefit of the doubt by explaining my reasons stock headers are still in hoping you could put 2 IQ points together. Instead you doubled-down insisting my priorities were wrong in an attempt not to look retarded for assuming I didn’t “spend a dime on replacement headers.”


Now you’re attempting to triple-down by bringing up a random vacuum actuator thread. If you could put 2 IQ points together you would realize no one on Fchat ever posted the correct part number for the Ferrari 355 Pierburg actuator. Only alternative Pierburg units for other cars speculated to be the same, but never verified … until I actually bought one and confirmed it was not the same. It can be modified to work, but it’s not plug and play identical to the unit that comes on a 355. If anything, I fixed the misinformation in that thread.

Why don’t you post the part number for the 355 Pierburg actuator if you think you’ve got it all figured out?? If you’ve actually replaced your actuator, chances are you are running a $2 China-made one you paid $60 for. Congratulations.


In regards to be-littling, if you can’t take it, don’t dish it.



If you’ve got nothing valuable to contribute to this thread, then what are you doing here? Perhaps you should start a thread on 355 coolant caps.

 

You weren’t here to offer advice or concerns. Owners who are genuinely concerned wouldn’t word things the way you did. A simple, “do you plan on replacing your OE headers? Those are known to be unreliable” would’ve have sufficed. I call it how I see it. Your responses show I called it correctly.

Ironically, I see the insecurity coming from you and the fact you need to desperately bring up misc issues from other threads is suspect. Almost as if you’re keeping mental track of my perceived mistakes to discredit my ownership. What’s next?? Are you going to point out my radiators and fans are still original??

Timmo, you don’t need to worry about me or my car. Worry about your own insecurity.

 

I never lost face to begin with. Perhaps you did when I proved your logic was misplaced. Keep reachin’ though .

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Referring back to factory recommended specs for 355’s equipped with FHP. How many FHP 355’s are actually running these specs? My guess is not many.


I don’t recall exactly where, but someone posted somewhere an FHP 355 is 10mm lower in the front than a standard 355. That is pretty spot on, give or take a few mm.


The highest FHP front recommend setting is 158mm and the rear is 178mm measured from ground to center of the fork bolts (with driver and 1/2 tank of gas. 20mm rake between suspension pivot points. *Keep in mind the FHP rear fork sits roughly 10mm lower than a standard fork. This is important.

The range for a standard car if you take the median recommended range is:

Front - 164-171mm. 167mm rough avg
Rear - 184-191mm. 187mm rough avg.

20mm rake between suspension pivot points.



Because the FHP rear fork sits roughly 10mm lower than standard, 187mm ride height on a standard 355 is effectively nearly the same as 178mm rear height on an FHP car. However, because the FHP 355 is supposed to sit roughly 10mm lower up front, the chassis rake is now 30mm, not 20mm between front and rear, although suspension pivot points are still at a 20mm rake.


This results in a visually unusual 355 raked stance. Naturally, owners are going to attempt to raise the car upfront about 10-15mm if unaware (most are unaware) of factory recommended specs.

According to @Mitch Alsup, rake settings on a 355 influence the under/oversteer characteristics of the car drastically even with what seems to be minor height differences.


Before I installed my front and rear dampers, I studied FHP height setups to minimize adjustments post installation. I did 15 threads up in the rear and 10 threads up in the front. I observed several FHP cars with this rear setting. I couldn’t find any clear pics of cars from Japan in the front to mimic. I simply went thru Serie Fiorano cars on BaT. Most were set at 10-15 threads up from the lowest thread. I decided on 10.

For reference:

1 thread = 1.5mm. Front height aspect ratio at .7 and rear at .85.


When my car settled on the ground, my rear ride height (15 threads up) was spot on at 178mm (without driver), which is the highest recommended FHP factory setting. Throw a driver in and the driver’s side sinks roughly 3mm. Implying I should probably raise the driver’s side up 3mm.


Now with the fronts set at 10 threads up, my rake was barely existent. The car was in the 174mm range up front. Roughly only a 5mm rake. I was very surprised. Keep in mind I have genuine Ferrari FHP springs front and rear. The only way I could get the car lower to anything remotely close to 158mm up front (or 154mm) is to lower the spring perches pretty damn close to the lowest thread.

*10 thread turns x 1.5mm/ .7 = 21.5mm drop.



I ultimately decided on 3-4mm up from lowest setting.



In short, factory recommended FHP settings are pretty low up front and the chassis rake is fairly aggressive at 30mm. MOST FHP 355’s are not setup like this. Either an owner, dealer, etc raised the front upon sale to appear “normal.” New owners are driving with raised fronts.

I can pretty much tell from a picture now (mentally comparing to my 355) if the fronts are setup to recommend settings.



In short… so how many have experienced an FHP 355 as the factory intended? My guess… not many.










Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Here’s 550 FHP for comparison. They have ride height settings for each tire!


Image Unavailable, Please Login