Okay.. I've been all over this site and every other I can find online. I've read about window drop issues until I almost went blind. I see the tests: "Does it only do it with the outside handle?" "Does it do it when using both door handles?" "Try rolling up/down to reset the ECU" "Try checking for continuity at the harness plug" "Can you hear the switches clicking when using the handles"? etc. My problem is the issue is intermittent so testing can be inconclusive. I could test a component once and it check out but then go bad on me again the next time I try. If only there were a way to test every component, each time I try to open the door LOL. But, I digress.... -I can let my car sit on the tender for a week and the window will not drop. I can drive the car for a while and then it will drop. I can drive the car home and it won't again. -I can open the door and roll the window all the way up from the inside and it will go up, then drop down as it should, every time. -When the window *does* drop, but I leave the door closed, I can leave the door alone and the window will go back up after a bit, as it should. -I just went out and the window dropped for me 25 times in a row from both inside AND outside. -I do not believe I've ever had it *not* open from the outside. -The only thing different from the passenger door is that the switch is adjusted so that the window drops with just the slightest lift of the exterior handle. I like it that way, but maybe it's stuck "open" if it's adjusted that close, never registering the lever as being down so that it can reset? Next time this happens, I'll push DOWN on the exterior handle and then lift again, to see what happens. Am I doomed to spend money until it's fixed? I guess to start with the exterior handle window switch and then the module?
Well, that narrows it down a bit. There is probably nothing wrong with the exterior handle microswitch... and the "2cm down" switch mounted on the window drive assembly must be working as the window always comes down to the 2cm mark when you use the exterior handle. The same 2cm switch is used whatever handle you use. Exterior handle window switch? What's that? Why not change the interior handle microswitch, then inspect/clean the pins on the ECU plugs and reseat the plugs. I assume the interior handle microswitch is the cheapest and easiest to change. Image Unavailable, Please Login Do you have two microswitches on the inner door handle assembly? Or do you have the older version where the lock lever is purely mechanical? I believe on the newer system you can only lock the door using the armrest lock lever, not unlock the door. If I know this, I can provide you with the correct wiring diagram if required.
I had this issue and it was the microswitch on the exterior door handle. Try this. Next time you open the door, with the door open, pull and then push on the exterior door handle and listen for a little click, like the microswitch is activating. That was my problem. The microswitch was just slightly misadjusted so that it would occasionally tell the car that someone was trying to open the door and it would therefore drop the window. Also, try closing the door by pusing on the handle to see if that eliminates the problem.
@kaj750 Can you clarify whether your window is NOT dropping when it should or IS dropping when it shouldn't? If the latter, I will have to change my response.
I was just responding to @kaj750. My issue is fixed. But it was doing both. Dropping when it shouldn't and not dropping when it should. When I closed the door, the window would go up, then drop an inch, then go back up after about 30 seconds. It then would not drop when I pulled on the exterior handle and my interior window switches would not go out. It all had to do with that microswitch which was never closing due to misalignment. Thanks!
Understood, Pete. I just wasn’t sure what Kaj’s issue was. You seemed to have a completely different take on what he (?) said. Your interpretation may be correct, but I won’t know until he answers. This appears to be the result of manual input. This is more ambiguous.
I can't seem to be able to edit my post. Of course THE MOST KEY information is wrong LOL. ***I don't believe I've ever had the window not drop when opening from the INSIDE*** As far as I can remember, the window has always dropped when opening from the inside, which leads me to the switch for the exterior handle. I'm not sure which version of the inner door handle I have. I'll be pulling the car apart in the next week and can follow up with you, though. Thank you for that info. I thought about something along those lines while trying to fall asleep last night. I've been obsessed with thinking about this problem haha. Yes. I will try that. I was thinking maybe the switch wasn't "resetting itself" and the switch was sticking in the "open" position. Especially considering how the window drops when I just *barely* lift then handle. I'll try and report back. The window is not dropping when using the exterior handle only. I'm 99.9% sure it has worked fine from the interior handle. The issue is intermittent and I've come to the same conclusion as the post I quoted above yours. I'm really, really hoping that it's an alignment issue. **somewhat unrelated: I feel like I should buy a switch or two, if I plan to keep this car. They are getting harder to find and seem like something I should have in stock. Do they fail often enough to worry about it? Thanks for all the helpful replies, guys!
The switch inside the door is most likely the culprit. Mine was not dropping at all after a while ... you need to remove the door card and adjust/check the microswitch which is responsible with the window position as it goes up and down. Window ECU does not know what is the state of the window, hence not dropping when needed.
The interior door handle works all the time, so I don't see how it can be that window position switch. Given the new information, I think it's the exterior handle switch. If it happens again, you could try resetting plug C on the Window ECU. Or pull plug C and look for a ground on pin 7 coming from the exterior door handle when activated. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login (grey white wire)
I'll give it a shot. I'm not very good at electrical stuff, so "look for a ground" is something I'll need to look up.
Just use an ohmmeter to check to see if you have continuity (close to zero ohms) between that ECU pin and the chassis (any piece of bare metal on the car). The Window ECU mounting bolts may be suitable. Image Unavailable, Please Login Plug shown from contact side (not wire side)
Ah! now THAT I can do. I have a really good volt/amp meter. LOL Confirming that's PIN 7, correct? There's a diagram in another thread where someone was using PIN 6 and grounding to PIN 10 on plug B (easier for me to ground to chassis).
Oops.. pin 6. Well-spotted. Grey/white wire. You could use the ground on pin 10 of plug B (blue/black wire). I just thought it might be easier to only pull one plug.
Update (sort of). I could not find this this thread for the life of me. Now that I have, I will doing this tomorrow and report back. Sorry it took so long, but a whole lot of life happened over the last 6mos.
