A GENUINE KIND of gear replacement for 63307100 f355 timing actuator

Thank you so much Steve for coming back with a thought on the material. Hope you come back again with your testing result.

When choosing over-molded material for casting, I finally chose Enduro SOFT – Soft Rubber Casting Resin for my genuine kind of gear replacementI although I did have once considered the Smooth-Cast Onyx Fast - Ultra-Black Urethane Resin but I was not sure by then how hard urethane is. There is a series product line with different hardness for urethane by Smooth-on.

A strong but too hard material might be an issue for having noisy clicking as I mentioned at the very first beginning.

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It is so nice of you for coming back with a update for polycarbonate 3D printing! Come back again with what you see for a longer-term case.

Will you try urethane as steved033 mentioned or any material other than polycarbonate?

 

Thank you very much Steve. Please keep us updated.

Just a kind reminder for less confusion, in this thread, two different ways have been proposed to self make replacement gears.

One is molding and casting replacement for the genuine kind over-molded two-piece timing actuator gear as I did.

The other is 3D printed replacement for one piece gear, just like steved033 already did for timing actuator using nylon as well as Steve C already did for lid actuator using polycarbonate, while the material is kept trying with updates.

 

Interesting! But I do not follow you well.

I have looked into the gears one by one of https://www.igus.co.uk/gears/iglidur-gears and also looked back to your picture. However, I could not find one from igus.co.uk to match with your smaller broken part for replacement by stacking?

Or, are you saying to order and procure the smaller part from igus.co.uk ,instead of 3D printed it?

 

Not sure which method you are referring to? Molding/casting or 3D print?

 

Neither am I good at 3D printing.

Guide to 3D Printing Materials: Types, Applications, and Properties told me that the material first subject to which printer, FDM, SLA or SLS, you have.

Maybe steved033 or redwedge would like to help on your question by their own experience.

 

Many thanks to Eric for elaborating on the 3D printing MJF Multi Jet Fusion technology which steved033 and redwedge once mentioned earlier, other than FDM/SLA/SLS in the table. It is a lesson for me.

 

For those interested in 3D printed replacement, a blog Finally a COG I’m happy with FYR. It is for sales as well.

 

An update.

A over-molded gear with perfect formula of PU rubber is now presented to you. Finetuned craftmanship, fixtures and mold.

Just to be clear, It is not 3D printed one piece. It is handmade over-molded two-piece gear the same as genuine/original.

It had been listed on ebay for sales. Kind of restore service and your remaining useless disk shaft needs to be sent to Taipei first.

 

Steve and Qavion, thank you very much for your "like" and compliment. It's being a honor!

 

Thank you very much for your interest.

New old stock or used one is hard to find now. However, even if one located as I did, price is crazy and aging gear cracks only a matter a time.

To have a direct spare is nice and reasonable. If I were you having a working old one, I would think about the same thing too. To send the reaming disk shaft first is indeed annoying I know.

Any idea for the age of your gear? Have you opened the case and check the gear?

If yours is fine, there is no too much sense to exchange your old good gear unless you think the same as I did, old one and even new old stock exist a aging issue with limited life span.

Yes, it is possible you have my direct replacement without exchanging your good one. As mentioned earlier, I did have several good old gears and good disk shafts. However I am hesitated to sell then for the time being given the insane scarcity. Especially they serve as the standard for developing molds and fixtures and need to be kept. It is very unlikely for me to sell the good old gears given the aging issue. The most I can do is to use the good disk shaft and over-molded but it will cost much more if people like. Or to replicate the disk shaft which is not a option currently since developing fixtures, molds to make it precise and perfect, ex. no off-centering, will cost me lots of work and then cost much more.

Long in short, I am not making money so honestly speaking, before a spare alternative is available and acceptable, live with the good one alone and come to me anytime when it cracks.

 

Sure. Thank you so much for your patience and interest among so little demands. "Whatever it takes", do you mean it? On the contrary, you deserved a discount of my cheap labor.

A new old stock gear I based on to create molds happened to crack today, which I believe its time has come as a aging gear. A matter of time! Therefore I got a new disk shaft which could be possibly released.

It is a bad news for me but might be a good news for you.

 

Deeply appreciate your interest among so little demands.

Everything I sold shall be new. The disk shaft is an unused new old stock, either a new genuine disk shaft with no aging issue itself or a brand new duplicated one with much saving.

I had sourced more than a dozen of similar now old stock actuators at a significant cost, after opening then I realized some with different gears and some with same genuine gears. However, out of these same unused NOS gears, some already cracked with no surprises and some luckily remain complete. The genuine gear broken this Monday was nice and complete at first, now it turned to be a new genuine disk shaft and is now working on duplicating.

Certainly will let you know when duplicating is done which I hope soon. The price will listed on ebay with a discount for you. Payment needs go through paypal either on ebay or offline. Do you have a paypal account email?

 

Forgot to attach the picture of what I mentioned unused new genuine disk shaft.

It is now undergoing duplicating same disk shaft for who has a working actuator but want a spare complete two-piece gear, instead of a over-molded restore, less cost though, with annoying need to send the remaining disk shaft to me first.

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