I installed a new pump last night. But it was very odd. The old pump was leaking but functional... no issues. Took the old pump out... put the new pump in and it wouldn't run. At first I thought the pump would "prime" in the key-on position (not start position) so when I didn't hear it running I was concerned about that. Tested the pump with a powerpoint tool and verified the pump was running when power was supplied so I knew I had a good pump. Then took a test light and verified it wasn't getting power in the on position of the key. So I pulled the fuse and no issue with the fuse. But I did notice the terminal for the pump wire (the brown wire) was discolored on the connector like it got a bit too hot. Unfortunately I don't recall if it was that way before. I replaced the fuse blocks with uprated ones with the blade fuses... going to go back and see if I can see that wire in the footage... was a while ago. Anyway I had a helper get in the car and turn the key to start and THEN the test light came on. So now I knew that there was power going to the pump. Hooked everything back up and the pump worked and the car fired. I'm thinking the wire to that pump might have issues since the terminal was discolored.It's just odd that it didn't have issues before? Wondering if I should run a new wire at this point, but don't know how involved that would be... anyone have something like this occur and did you run a new wire?
Probably not -- unlike EFI cars, the CIS fuel pump does not run at all with just the key "on" and the engine not running. The CIS fuel pump only runs: 1. During starter motor cranking, or 2. With the key "on" and the safety switch open (i.e., with the engine actually drawing in air and deflecting the airflow metering plate). IMO, you should learn how to unplug the safety switch on the airflow metering unit (simulating an open safety switch) so the CIS fuel pump will run with just the key "on" and the engine not running -- can be very useful as it's easy to just listen to determine if the CIS fuel pump is running, or not. Also, allows you to check for fuel leaks without running the engine.
Yeah I was able to figure out that the wire wasn't supposed to get power until the car was actually cranked. The issue though was it wasn't getting power while cranking initially. I'm guessing that when I pulled the fuse and then the wire and reconnected both it then started to work. Maybe it worked itself loose... but it's very coincidental that it happened when I changed the fuel pump.
Do you still have the (terrible) stock fuse blocks, or have you replaced them with something better or made improvements (like soldering) to not solely rely on the mechanical rivets for an electrical connection?
