Hey everyone. I have a super simple question that I'd love some advice on before I do anything that I regret. Very simply Im in the middle of my regular yearly oil change on my 2002 360 Spider, something I do myself in my garage. I realized that the oil sump suction filter has not been taken out or checked for longer than can remember.. must have been years. But after taking out both securing bolts, the thing don't budge. I've forcefully tried to yank the plastic with all sorts of tools to the point it starts bending, but nothing. I'm guessing maybe the rubber seal seized or something else and my question is, is there a trick to take this thing out, should I even try, or better to just let it be and not touch it? Pulling it any harder than I have already and its gonna break. Anyway, thanks a lot
I've been delaying for the longest time.. always "I'll do it next time". Maybe 5 or 6 years since Ive changed it. My bad, I know.
In the event you're lucky and its just needs cleaning then its a simple process assuming it comes out easily. Good chance it'll break coming out. Its about $250 to replace roughly through Ricambi america and if you've never changed it or checked it, its likely it has rubbed a small hole in the mesh screen element from casting flaws on part of the gearbox casing. Easily fixed with some filing and cleaning up. Re-install requires a rubber mallet and a few light hits and the o-rings to be lubed up well. Probably a good idea to take the drain cover/plate off too here during this process.
Thanks a lot. Will do as suggested and hopefully not break it trying to get it out. Its stuck like its been glued.. crunch time
Get a 3/8" drive extension and put it behind the plastic lip that is exposed. It will be at an angle, but that's fine. Then just tap the extension lightly with a rubber mallet. Keep tapping and it will come out easily.
Thank you, collegeboy. I managed to take it out as you suggested, but before I had taken a photo after removing the drain cover/plate. The filter itself looks sparkling clean without any debris or shavings.. unfortunately whoever put it in the last time damaged it by rotating it in during the install and getting it rubbed against the engine's inside (its a clear rotation-shaped damage on the mesh.. so it has been like this since installed the last time (wasn't me and can't remember where it was done). I'm gonna try to see if the damaged area can be filled or welded as the rest of the mesh is impeccable. If not, I'll have to order a new one. Everything else looks good aside from a dark yellow oil deposit leftover that I have no idea where it came from. I'm considering doing a clean oil refill with a flushing additive, engine running for half hour, all out, then re-fill again with new oil. I have mixed feelings about flushing products and and the flushing efficacy itself and have never done one myself before, but I think in this case might be justified. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions in getting the filter out Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just remember that this is the filter before the oil is sucked into the oil pump itself. If the mesh is damaged an there is a hole or tear, i'd just replace the filter out-right rather than try to fix it. If the fix doesnt work for some reason and comes apart, you'll wind up with debris in your oil pump. The oil filter for the motor will catch it up top before it enters the bearings, but you definately don't want to damage the oil pump gears at all. Just food for thought.
Fully understood and thanks much for the detailed info. I was wondering on the issue of proper oil level measurement.. yes, the engine has to be running and hot, but is the measurement ideally taken with the cap fully screwed in or just resting on top? The thing is, fully screwed in, the dipstick sits almost 1/2" further down. Thanks a lot
Got it, thanks for the info. Getting ready for a full oil and coolant change. Since I am living in a very hot climate I will maybe use a slightly heavier oil this time. The oil that I took out (even though with very few miles on it) looked literally like water. Thanks again.
Really make sure the engine is hot when you check the level. Even do some driving before and get it real hot then let it idle as well. Then check. I have overfilled mine twice, because I thought I was checking at the correct temps and was not. It's a PITA. I believe start with just 8 or 9 quarts. Would others agree?
Thanks a lot for sharing.. I plan to fill it with 9 quarts to start as I have left the oil draining for several days while waiting for the oil filter that got stuck in shipment no one knows where.. should finally be here tomorrow or the day after. I think 9 quarts is a safe place to start without overfilling worries or that there's not enough oil. I've come across some true overfilling horror stories and I think even well below the minimum on the dipstick, there is still plenty of oil to have the engine running before topping it off.
Yeah, I just fill it with about 9 and let it warm up sitting at idle as much as possible then hold the rpms at about 2-4K for a short bit to get things a bit warmer or so and then let it sit for a few minutes at idle running and check it and add. Holding the rpms helps circulate the oil obviously and gets the cooling system working a bit with fans cycling without having to drive it around. If you have Catalytic converters still (most do) and no challenge grill this makes it easy to get warmed up fairly quick as we all know that rear seems to keep heat in more than we'd all like. Driving around is also a good idea but, if you do major services replacing quite a few things at once I tend to not want to leave too far from the garage/tools just in-case for any reason. All personal preference though
Followed your sugestions and its done but not without one hiccup along the way. After all what's life without some excitement, haha. So, after the first 6 quarts filling in oil, the tank started overflowing! I stopped immediately and went to weigh the reservoir holding the old oil I had taken out.. I still had it. It weighted 9 quarts. So I knew that no way I had put too much oil. Went under the car again and loosened the drain plug near the gearbox.. lots of air and gargling sounds and once actual oil started coming out, closed it up again. All the extra oil filling the tank was gone.. dipstick in, and nothing. Slowly managed to add another 3 quarts and with the engine hot and running for 45 minutes is now measuring touching the maximum level line. All good. I noticed two things: 1) Only right hand side front cooling fan turns as the car for hot while idling for long time on and the whole front and side fenders got super hot to the touch. Not sure if this is the way it should be or why the left fan doesn't kick-in, and 2) I've noticed I'm starting to have a small oil leak on both sides of the crankshaft bearings. The one at the front worries me little, the one behind the clutch worries me more because if the clutch gets wet, I'm a dead man. I only have 12.000 on this clutch but because of lots of stuff happening in my life these past 3 years, I have hardly driven the car and I realized lots of stuff has dried up and looks iffy. But the car does run beautifully. Now getting courage to take the back bumper off and do a transmission oil change followed by the coolant.. first time I'll be doing those. Bought a vacuum set to suck-up the air before refilling the coolant but didn't arrive yet so that procedure needs to wait a few more days. Also, I think I need timing belts done even though they have less than 1000 miles on them.. but it's been almost 5 years. I will not do it by myself, don't have anywhere near qualifications (or courage) for that. Thanks again for all your advice and insights and the time you took on answering my doubts, much appreciated
