The driver's seat seems to be ok, so I'm assuming the wiring is good for that. It's just the splices on the car side of the driver's plug that I'm worried about. The spiced wiring on the driver's side goes to the passenger side. Is the harness too short to drag it forward of the seat?
Oh, the two wires that are doubled on the driver's side go to the passenger side....that makes sense. But why would the seat stop and then continue when I unplug the pot on the driver's side? Is the pot not set properly to the forward most position? If that's the case, would unplugging it as I did, then moving the seat all the way forward as I did, and then reconnect it fix the early stop issue? As if it's in the forward position and the pot is at the stopping point now..... they'll be matched. Yes? No?
It's possible that the driver's pot is not set up properly, but it may be best to take the car to someone with a Ferrari SD1 tool. It may set a safety buffer so the seat doesn't ram into the endstops when using the roof or seat switches. Without the SD1 tool, you could be pulling the chair in and out a lot of times before you hit the sweet spot. The pot is designed to slip if it hits its own endstops before the seat hits its endstops. This basically resets the pot position. From here you can use the SD1 tool to set buffer zones (at the forward/aft stops)
Unplugging the pot does nothing to the calibration. The pot is driven directly by the seat drive mechanism. You can't change this relationship unless you start playing with the internals of the pot, changing the relationship between the pot and the drive.
I'm probably going to be in a lot of pain tomorrow after this (lol), but I was able to check continuity and there is continuity between the passenger and driver side (grey and black) connections.
In that case, I'm running out of ideas related to something you disturbed on the driver's side. It seems to point to a new problem with the passenger seat. Anyway, check out the wiring at the ECU as suggested.
Or a signal isn't getting to the ECU because the seat works fine by the regular forward/backward switch, but not the convertible top switch.
The roof switch doesn't have separate wires for driver/passenger. Either the ECU internals are faulty or, more likely, the ECU is not getting the right signals from the passenger seat pot. The ECU pin test should tell you what the pot is doing (for the most part). Seat aft, you should get a low resistance. Seat forward you should get a high resistance.
Tell me if this logic makes sense: What if I move the seat fully forward with the pot connected, then remove the seat and remove the pot, then reconnect the power and move the seat fully forward, then replace and reconnect the pot. Wouldn't that properly set the pot in the correct forward position? It's a lot of work, but it seems like that would solve the limiting travel problem....
After you remove the pot, you might have to manually move it to the nearest mechanical limit before reinstalling it (or just shy of that limit). Can this be done without opening the case or is the gearing too high? Alternatively, look on the forum for resistance values of other people’s seats at the fully forward position (and set your pot at the same value). I’m not 100% sure either technique would work if your ECU memorized values are not good.
I would actually have to pop open the plastic housing and remove the pot element, as I did before when I was putting it back together. I think what happened was before I removed the seat the first time, it popped apart and missed a few turns when I moved the seat. Maybe the passenger side isn't moving because the two pots resistance numbers aren't close (equal) enough?
I doubt it. People’s pots break all the time and it doesn’t stop the operation of the other seat. I stand to be corrected.
Not the normal operation of the seat, only when you use the convertible top button where both seats move forward simultaneously. That's a current issue. Driver's seat moves forward but passenger seat doesn't move at all.
Passenger seat connected, driver's seat not connected. Passenger seat moves forward and backward under a normal switch, but doesn't move when hitting the convertible top switch.
If you move the passenger seat manually forward with the seat switch, does the roof then close with the roof switch? Are you having pax seat issues with both forward and aft movement with the roof switch?
The roof will close no matter where the passenger seat is. It's currently in the back position and when the driver seat is forward, the roof will activate. Idk what pax means.
In both (seat) directions? Confusing. Usually when the seat pot indicates that the seat is forward, it allows the roof to operate. I was under the impression that when you disconnect the seat pot, it simulates a fully forward position allowing the roof to operate no matter where the seat is. This first made me suspect that the pax pot is showing the seat fully forward all the time, but I thought this should allow the seat to move back during roof operation (if you first fully move the seat forward manually) . I think all you can do is check the resistance between those two ECU pins with the seat manually set fully forward and aft to confirm that the pax seat pot is ok.
Yes, the pass seat won't move by control of the vert switch. Update from messing with it all day: I messed with the pot....pushed seat all the way fwd with pot connected (stopped early), then I pulled the seat and removed the pot gear from the housing which disconnected it from the turning gears, and put the seat back in and moved the seat all the way fwd. Pulled the seat out and put the pot back in. Put the seat back in, hooked it back up and then it wouldn't go back all of the way. It stopped a few inches short. So I did the above process again but in the reverse direction. Now the driver's seat won't go all the way forward as far as the pass seat just like before, but it does go all the way back now. So, now I either still have something wrong, or nothing is wrong and the driver's seat simply doesn't go as far fwd as the pass seat. I assumed it did, but maybe it doesn't? That can be checked on any car. One of the times I had the seat out, I noticed one of the pins wasn't clicking in place in the new connector and was backing out. Something went bad in the connector so I removed the pins and installed a new connector and new pins on the effected connections. Now all three are connecting properly without any doubt. I thought that may have been the connectivity problem with the pass seat not going fwd when hitting the vert switch, but it didn't change anything. I'm at a loss..... I am curious if the driver's seat goes as far fwd as the pass seat...
Well, I assume the seat tracks are the same, so it would depend on the original calibration. SD1 tool recalibration may give you a few extra cm of travel at either end. Folks have reported different resistance readings on their pots, so it may depend on manufacturing tolerances and other things.
I still can't understand why the passenger side doesn't work when I hit the vert button. Makes no sense....
