360 Touch the brake and no throttle until restart

Hi.

I recently brought the x-silverstone experience Blue 360 that been on and off sale since autumn last year – £25k one.

It’s now running quite well on startup, will run up to temp and moves revs ok.

If I press the brake pedal my gear selection changes for “-“ to “N” and I can shift to 1, 2 and R. As soon as letting of the pedal it reverts to “-“.

However, the moment the brake is pressed the throttle stops having and real effect of rpm – throttles won’t respond. If I release the brake pedal completely, I still get no throttle – and can only get it back by restarting her.


The rpm does sound like it’s moving a little on pedal press but the rev counter is frozen at idle and orange engine light comes on. it kinda feels in the car like your trying to move away with the handbrake on in gear on a manual - revs sorta held back.

If I try starting holding the brake pedal it won’t really start.

If I start her with no brake, don’t touch the gear selectors, revs fine, engine light out, touch brake pedal, no more rev and engine light back (though gbox then shows "N")

I have a Launch X431 mini. Connecting as a 360 this won’t connect to the right ECU – but the left shows…
- The P1675 Instrument Panel: CAN Line Timeout (B2) & P1632 F1 Gearbox CAN : CAN Line Timeout (B2)
- Gearbox gives P0720 Gearbox Output Revolutions, P0600 CAN error code & P1760 Brake Error.

As a 430 I can connect to both ECUs and see data…
- The Right bank gives P1674 Instrument Panel Timeout & P1672 Gearbox Timeout
- The Left gives P1655 CAN error Instrument Panel Timeout Lhb Intermittent Signal & P1632 CAN Messages Timeout from lhb gerbox ECU
- Gearbox gives P0720 Car Speed, P0600 CAN error code & P1760 Brake Switch.

When I got the car the brake pedal sensor had what we believe is the redundant clutch sensor plugged in and the brake sensor had a jumper wire plugged into it – removing the jumper allowed the throttle bodies to respond though gear selection would only show “-“.

The brake pedal sensor I cleaned, and it activates the brake lights and can be seen moving between on and off viewing live data on the TCU.

Battery light is also up to something. on startup it goes out but then comes back, flashes once, then stays on. Launch is seeing 14+ volts when running.

Any suggestions on how I might diagnose this further? I’m guessing the primary issue is the ECU to TCU coms and my iffy brake pedal issues are perhaps just the effect of the dicey comms? Also the instrument cluster was removed to hydro-dip - could something have been disturbed that might have these sortta symptoms?

Cheers! Jez.

 

Thanks both.

It's an earlier 3 pin. The car has two of these 3 pin connectors coming from the loom by the brake pedal. Someone, at some point, had plugged the redundant clutch one into the brake sensor rather than the brake one - and had also jammed a wire into the actually brake pedal sensor plug to trigger it - perhaps in trying to diagnose the issue i'm facing.

Good to know the "-" should not be apearing on brake press - as you suggest I'll go a hunting with the probe on the CAN and brake wiring.

Battery is not that old I believe - but it did sit in a barn for quite some time so I'll sitck a new one in just to be 100% and deploy the old one as dedicated to the QuickJack

again, many thanks.

 

I think it was just plugged in in error. same connector. Car is a 99.

This was how it was when I got it...



/sorry meant to be a link to 30 seconds in - keeps turning it to embedded video link sorry.

I swapped to the correct connector and cleaned out the sensor switch (wasnt make a reliable contact) and from that point car had brake lights working on the pedal, see it activate on the Launch and throttle boddies happy.

That'd be very useful if it differs from the "360 spider wiring diagrams.pdf" that I have?

 

@Qavion thanks again for the wiring diagram - been super useful!

the issue seems to be the ABS/ASR ECU. With the brake pedal pressed the white CANBUS line coming from the unit into connector 2b/22b is sitcking out 12v down the white wire - i guess then messing up the canbus network and thus all my issues.

HTML:

<a href=https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WIKcjs8wjhI>small video of the issue</a>

the wiring diagram just shows the 22b output as 120 ohm and no refference to where the go...

... but if im right and its the ABS/ASR ecu then i suppose that doesnt matter really.

Just hope can be fixed as they seem very pricey!!!

 

pulled the ABS unit - It's off to SinSpeed to get checked out... fingers crossed!!!

 

nope gets nothing on white wire at all. i get 12v into pin 14 on ABS (from brake pedal) but the green and white (pin 29 and 30) that go out of abs into connector 2b stay zero'd. the 2b plug is a few inchs from the main abs hookup and i was measuring voltage with this unplugged from the connector to dash so just a few inches of wire from the ABS/ASR plug - no shorts in wires of the connector block itself... thus the 11.5/12v in to the white pin 30 must be coming from the ABS unit itself is what i believe. Interesting to see what the say when hook it up on test bench.

 

yup you got it - no 12v on the 22b side - but do get 12v on the white wire on the 2b side with pedal pushed.
the red wire into 1b (pin 14) from the brake pedal is 0 volt not pushed and 12v when pushed as i guess im going to expect.
so unless 12v is meant to be coming down the white wire its defo iffy abs unit - as say i dont see a short from pin 14 to to pin 30 (and into 2b) on the wiring harness itself.
love to know what the voltage is to both the pins on connector 2b... but i guess being canbus it should basically we the same as all the other green/white combos elsewhere right?

 

so crap news on my ABS from SinSpeed...

"...we have found that there are no loose wires in the connector, but there is clear evidence of water damage.
Unfortunately, the unit has failed the tests, and based on our findings, it appears to be faulty.
At this point, we are unable to proceed with a repair, as the damage is significant. Additionally, we are currently unable to source a replacement part."

So I guess my only option is a replacement unit. or run without ABS/ASR