Evans waterless coolant experience?

I ran it in my '51 Dodge truck and it works great and a zero pressure radiator cap. I tried to use it in my '64 Buick Electra but the heat indicator light kept coming on. I believe the radiator size and or efficiency wasn't good enough on the Buick to keep the temperature in the normal range. That said, the higher heat shouldn't be a problem as you wouldn't experience boil over like you would with normal coolants and water.

 

Many years ago I tried it in a car -with- cooling system improvements and it ran much hotter. From the 190's up into the 240+ range. No surprise really.

I wouldn't try it in anything again.

 

My Dino runs great in all types of weather on traditional cooling fluid mixed with water. I think money is better invested in radiator maintenance or re-coring rather than changing to a significant different cooling fluid type on an engine system that’s designed for water mixed with corrosion inhibitors and anti freeze, typical as ethylene glycol.

best, Peter

 

I looked into it and it was quite expensive and requires an absolutely clean cooling system for it to be effective. In the end I decided that regular maintenance changes was preferred to leaving the coolant in. From experience I found the cast iron block to really contaminate the coolant on the Dino so a flush every two years is the way to go for me.

 

Mr. Mayor: I would go to the No-Rosion website and see what they say regarding the Evans Coolant. They have a vast amount of valuable info on cooling and fuel systems. Feel free to PM me and we can talk in more detail. NOTHING cools better than straight water.

 

While my vintage car driving experience adds up to only little more than half million miles between few hundred cars (100+ of my own) in past 40+ years, I've always managed fine with conventional 50/50 mixing of traditional (green) glycol anti-freeze coolant & water, but due to a recommendation by DRW46 awhile back, I now add No-Rosion during each coolant change to any older vintage cars, including Ferraris, etc.
I also switched to using reverse osmosis water.

Neither No-Rosion or r.o. water has since shown any ill-effects on any of the subjects I've used both in.

Call me old-school, but only time I would consider experimenting/trying something like "Evans" is if the vehicle in question was something completely insignificant, i.e potential throw-away if things went south.

YMMV.

 

I have been tempted to try it based on Dykes comments in the past.

Mayor, talk to Dyke. Credentials don't get better.

 

Beware it makes the water more acidic with a PH around 5 so you need to adjust it. De-ionized water is just a good and a PH around 7.

 

I have no idea but I looked at the page and could not figure out what the "Evans thermal conductivity" is.
Boiling point is one thing, thermal conductivity is another.
It will not boil, but how good does it do the job?
Distilled water has 0.60 W/m·K thernal and 50/50 coolant usually has 45/40. If "Evans" is close or more, then go for it. If it has less... dont.

Can somebody check what Evans say their TC is?

 

0.27W/m-K @90C

 

So it is a lot less than water or 50/50. From these numbers it seems that 50/50 or distilled water transfer heat from engine to radiator more efficiently.

 

It really depends on the composition of the coolant being used. Some vary a lot but most put in far too higher concentration just to be .....safe. In a severe climates a 50/50 mix is needed but in more temperate zones then a 20/20 mix is best. TC of that is about 0.45 against possibly 0.27 for the 50/50 mix.

Check the label but the higher the mix ratio the worse it gets!

IMHO - The waterless idea is best left on the shelf.

Best
Tony