I used a map gas torch to melt it into a pile of plastic. You can see the o ring that leaks on the table. Image Unavailable, Please Login
There's gotta be a non prancing horse cross-referenced replacement. The more I dig, the more I'm finding these things are Frankensteins. I'm not complaining. This is a good thing.
That whas a drastic way to open up that valve !! There are other non-F replacements cheap to buy in the internet. But they work to other way... When closing, the red lights of your switch go on, opening the lights go out...
Claiming Ferrari's are "Frankenstein" cars is not strictly true or accurate. Whilst Ferrari do often use parts from other "domestic" cars to save on production costs (as do other limited production number manufacturers, such as Lamborghini, Aston Martin and Bentley), they also use a lot of parts that look similar to "domestic" car parts, but are actually bespoke to their car. With the 328 for example, Ferrari are often accused of having used FIAT switches, but the switches don't match any FIAT switches.
Thank you for that open closed info. That is very helpful in adapting a new valve. Now, if only my lights worked. I've seen these mostly when searching for the 328 Heater valve. However, that looks nothing like what i have. Mine is the style in the pic below. Maybe the latter cars had these, the older the one you posted? In any case, I'll likely buy that from amazon for $38 and make it work. Part Number: Four Seasons 74004 (Thanks Rbolt) I will need to machine a piece that will screw into that thread on the handle and have a square female on the other end for the motor. After that i think it'll just be some bracketry to make it work. Here is the pic of the valves that are on my car. Same part number on ebay which is weird. 126324 Image Unavailable, Please Login
All the 328 and I believe 412 have those valves like on your last picture. The one on my picture is a substitute that can be used and is sold by some suppliers like Eurospares. But it is not the OEM style that are unobtainable.An other bracket to hold the new style would do the trick and a piece between motor and valve should be possible.That is the way I would go in case my old valves are leaking again.
Car will STILL not idle. I have checked the Throttle body idle adjustment screw, TPS switch seems to Click when just coming off throttle which i think is correct. I've also tried running it with the TPS unplugged. Same result. I've unplugged the O2 sensor, same result. I have unplugged the WUR injector, same result (Actually worse wont start at all) and the other black injector by the CIS unit. Same result. I have bypassed the Aux Air Valve, same result. I have adjusted the idle air screw on the CIS, same result. Car starts and dies after a few seconds. I can keep it running if above 3,000 RPMS. Revs up nice and runs great. Let it go below 3,000 RPM's and it sounds like its being flooded, sometimes flooring the gas pedal will bring it back, most times it just bogs and dies. What would cause too much fuel while idling? Yes, plugs are soaked with gas and nice and clean.
Seems that you've already turned every adjustment screw , but you should confirm/deny if the Protection Relay is working or not (if it is a US version 328). Unplug the Safety Switch and turn the key "on" = you should hear the fuel pump run even though the engine is not running. Then touch the Frequency Valve = it should be vibrating. If it isn't vibrating = Protection Relay system probably not working. (Please forgive me if you've already confirmed it's OK, but not going thru a ~300 post thread to find out.)
Yes sir. All of that has been confirmed. I've tried starting it with the safety plug unplugged and same result. Verified Fuel Pressure before, during and after running. Frequency valve is vibrating. I'm almost sure the pump runs key off with the safety plug disconnected. Hmmmm. I'll have to verify. Thanks for the suggestions.
Some more “can’t get it running so I’ll keep cleaning it up” content. Cleaned up the fender wells with degreaser, a brush and a hose. Coated with 3m undercoating. This is the best stuff I’ve used in my experience. Dries quick, and doesn’t stay rubbery or tacky and get all over everything. New stainless #10 screws #14 for the front two, replaced some u-clips. Remember to paint the one spot that isn’t part of the removable fender well. (I didn’t, yet) also added new seals on them. Same as the trunk seal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Realized I never posted the boot cover. Sourced from superperformance, new seals from Amazon worked perfectly. Had to make new plastic backings for the hatch latches to match oem. Traced the old ones and glued them in. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you want to make the wheel liner screw/washers disappear you can blacken the stainless yourself, or buy pre-blackened pieces from Bel-Metric, which is what I did. Much easier than DIY and not expensive. I used the blackened M6 washers (25mm OD) with M5 flat head phillips screws for a very low profile.
How do these inserts for the headrests come out? I’m guessing carefully with a push pin removal tool? Seats and door panels have been dropped off to get freshly redone in Ferrari crème leather also sent the fuel dist. Unit back out as it had developed some leaks. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Anyone know where to get inner window sweeps that rivet to the inner door panels? I bought the ones ferr parts and superperformance sell and it’s generic Amazon type seals that don’t match original (assuming mine are original, they seem to be, or at least much better fit and quality) mine have a folded over rubber flap that has the felt lining on the outside, and also a small rubber lip that would go on the upper inside part of the door panel. Let me know where I can get replacements if anywhere. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is what its supposed to look like. But, when you google the superseded part number MC3475/4 , I have found it to be just that flat junk i received already. So before i buy it again and get something different (Wrong) than what they show in the picture, I'm emailing Maranello and superperformance to get an actual pic of the actual product. This is just crazy that something not even remotely close is considered a superseded part. Much like the heater valve. Very frustrating. I'll reply back with my findings. Hopefully i can find the correct seals. Image Unavailable, Please Login
And here is an other one https://www.elvezio.com/product-category/ferrari/ferrari-208-308-328-gtb/rubber-sections-ferrari-208-308-328-gtb/?lang=en Is it this one ? https://www.elvezio.com/product/internal-glass-scraper-ferrari-208-308-328-gtb/?lang=en
And one more = https://mrfiat.com/collections/glass-and-seals-91/products/ferrari-208-308-328-gtb-inner-glass-scraper-set
That first link is great! Found a few things i need, but not the seal unfortunately. The second & third has the same "Superseded" Part that's just flat, no rubber.(Shown below) I may just end up using the old worn out ones. Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's the same as above too. I appreciate you putting in some time on this. I did bookmark that first link. Thank You again.
