Question about water temp switch and oil temp switch

IMO, you are worrying needlessly about this . You can't compare those temperature values so directly because the thermoswitch controlling the relays for the water fans is mounted in the bottom of the LH radiator (after the coolant has been cooled) while the thermister controlling water temp gauge in the dash is mounted in the pipe where the hottest coolant exits from the top of the cylinder heads. Additionally, the accuracy of all of these components is only plus or minus several degrees C. About 90 deg C on the dash water temp gauge (or even a little above) for the cooling fans to come "on" is A-OK (and the TR cooling system is so over-designed that, unless it's a very hot day, the water temp on the gauge should drop a little after the water fans come "on").

Also, be aware that when you turn the exterior lights "on", it's normal for the temperature and pressure gauge needles will all move up a needlewidth or two -- so don't let that concern you when driving at night.

 

This aftermarket one sold for the TR is also 87/82 C
https://awitalian.com/product/oil-temp-switch-123277.html/

The one on the fparts uk site is a honeywell 2455r type

 

As far as the oil goes its pretty unusual for the oil cooler fan to come on at all. Ferrari decided not to even install one on most versions on the 512TR and it was a good decision. Considering modern oils can tolerate temperatures in excess of 300 F the fan is just excess weight.

 

Completely agree that those switching temps for the Intermotor 50172 seem far too low -- and agree with Brian that the usual complaint for the TR oil temperature is "why is my oil temperature always so low?". The only information I have about 123277 is a note that I wrote in my TR SPC from the same turbo-joe post that you've already quoted, and his temperature values seem far more reasonable to me.

Totally agree! If you do a search using the F part number of "123277" you should get most of the available prior threads on the subject.

 

101507 was originally for a long list of cars built over many years. 168008 was originally designated for the F40.
I just pulled and read both factory service manuals and the on/off temperatures are exactly the same.
Your source of information is incorrect .

22mm temperature switches are very ubiquitous and I suspect many suppliers are just selling generic parts.

 

What's quickly and in what ambient temp?

Generally it takes forever to warm up.

 

Even on a race track I have never seen 300 degrees in a Testarossa. And with 100+ MPH wind going through the cooler all a fan is going to do is restrict air flow.

 

Might be a little bit of worrying to much.

 

One with partially blocked oil passages would heat up faster wouldn't it?

 

Your being at a relatively high elevation (low density air) won't help the situation, but still surprised that you are having any issue. Are you sure that both water fans are working well? When the oil gets hot, does the water also get abnormally hot? A test you can do is remove relay I (for the oil fans) and connect a jumper wire from the female metal terminal 30 in the relay socket to the female metal terminal 87 in the relay socket like this:

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The oil fans should run even when the key is "off". You can do the same test at relays H & L for the water fans. Won't test the thermoswitches operating those relays, but will test everything else (fuses, wiring, connections, motors). Just putting your hand in front of each rear wheel should give you an good indication of the airflow (e.g., do both water fans have about the same airflow discharge, or not).

 

As soon as I ever hear of it happening I'll let you know. TR oil cooler is far bigger than needed. BB had no oil cooler and the race cars, the BBLMs had a smaller cooler than TR. F40 made more power and had a smaller cooler and we had trouble getting those up to temperature. The only complaint ever heard is it runs too cool. On 40 degree days the only time the needle moves is if I let it idle for a long time. As soon as I get moving it crashes back to the bottom.

 

Was referring to engine oil passages.

 

When that happens heat isn't the problem. Scrap metal in the oil pan and a seized engine is. You do not clog a single passage without it costing you a motor within a minute or two tops.

If you deprive anything in the engine of enough lubrication it results in a measurable heat increase the engine is being destroyed. Biggest cooler in the world will not change the outcome.

 

But you could have a partial obstruction that goes on for a while before the engine is destroyed.
A bit of sealant or filter piece that moves along until it blocks enough of the flow, most likely to the heads.

Hypothetical, not saying it applies to his car.

 

Hypothetically Elvis was abducted by aliens.

WTF does your imagination have to do with oil temperature?

And why do you insist on wasting time discussing it?

The passage feeding the heads in less than 1mm. When it gets clogged the 1st and only symptom is the engine is now running on 6 cylinders.

 

That's the final stage. Before that happens you could have a long period of partial obstruction.

 

You don't know enough to know how stupid your statements are

 

Maybe not. Yes, when it gets to the heads, it's all over, but before that, there can be partial blockage.

How long do you think it would take for bits of excess sealant between the engine and the transmission (a la that Boxer that's being restored - you saw the pics about a month or two ago) to come off and enter the oil passages.

And once they come loose what's the route they would take?

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/testarossa-camshaft-seized.44299/

 

Hi Alex,

What is the difference ? Displayed temperature is lower, or ?

Cheers,

Stefan.

 

difference between what?

 

Hi Romano,

I meant, what is the difference after replacing the old thermoswitch with the new thermoswitch. As far as I understand, Alex bought the new thermoswitch because he thought it would help with his oil temperatures.

Cheers,

Stefan.