My 77 308GTB restomod

From where did you source the fiberglass parts?

 

And the added advantage that the rear lid will fold right over onto the roof for much easier access

 

Or I pull the two hinge pins and it lift it off. I'll be replacing the straight pins with hair pin clips for that reason.

 

Good call!!!

The factory decklid weighs a ton. Probably the heaviest thing on the car. Factory doors/window assembly is really heavy too. I'll have to check my records but I think the next heaviest item was the pop up headlight motors/assembly.

 

Nice! That’s the direction I’m looking to go in as well. I’ve been keeping a resource list for suppliers of the glass panels, curious who you acquired yours from. The fit - and those gaps - look pretty darn good.
Also, looks like you fabbed your own hinges? If so, nice work; they appear beefier than the Gr. 4 examples I’ve seen.
- Dave

 

We made the hinges. The lid and bumper came from MAT. There are other sources that make them in any material you wish.

 

Sorry to bother again, but Google doesn't seem to help when searching for MAT, a company with whom I'm not familiar.

 

https://www.mat.fi/

They are in Finland and do just amazing work

 

2 1/2 hr time-lapse video of MAT building a Gr. 4 replica ground-up from a donor 308. The workmanship and attention to detail is ridiculous:
Enjoy.
- Dave

 

Awesome, thanks.

 

Why do you wish you hadn't? I've been contemplating this.

 

For me it didn't really do anything other than add weight and its really hard to remove. I just didn't think through that I have a GTS that I normally drive top off and windows open so the noise just is.....noise canceling earbuds are about the only way to hear music (other than the engine). Even windows up and roof on I can't honestly say I noticed a difference....it must of helped but not enough that I could tell with my ears so my plan is to joint Paul on the remove it all journey

 

Oh

Oh ok, yeah I have a GTS too. I was thinking more for heat rejection, but I don't know how much it would help since the engine is behind you. But those coolant pipes run directly below so that was my thinking anyway.

 

I also used the foam cover the sound stuff and made sure to cover the pipes, and fire wall, lined the roof trying to keep sun heat out....again I can't honestly say I noticed any improvement.

 

Thanks man, I think you just saved me a lot of work and expense.

 

One of the cars that benefits from it the most are boxers. I've only ever done it during a restoration. The carpet sticks really well to the dynamat and I seal the cabin to prevent hot air from entering through gaps along the tunnel. I also block off the air path through the front of the tunnel on the outside just below the rack where the central pipes run. It's easily removable when the central hose needs replacing and it blocks radiator air from finding its way in through the heater controls. The added weight is irrelevant really. If I wanted to, I could say the new XWX tires vs the originals is a 28lb unsprung weight savings so the dynamat weight is offset.

 

Sealing out the hot radiator for i think is the the key, boxer or 308....and i failed on past attempts....at was leaking somewhere

 

Experimenting with this group 4 flare kit and some pin drive wheels I have here.

I've also played with the wheelbase in photos (that I haven't posted yet) and figured out the best place to cut if I go ahead with stretching the car. A 288 clone is not the goal here and group 4 cars aren't stretched.

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It looks good, what size wheels and tires are we looking at?

Some years ago I remember reading.. bert308 I think? was doing a sort of gro convertion and stretched the wheelbase buy just swapping a-arms side to side not cutting the frame... which must have caused other problems but made a wheelbase change easy.

 

I dream about stretched but otherwise stock body GTB with longitudinal carbed qv engine/gearbox.

 

Late to the party.... You're a pro so I have pretty high expectations for this build. So far you are hitting all my funny bones - exposed shifter, recessed lights, carbon kevlar weave on proud display, those wheels that I just saw on a video of the 308 GTU cars yesterday. I look forward to seeing what you do with the engine! 3.5 liter build? Also how much wheelbase are you trying to get? I could understand massaging it a little to get an inch - otherwise go full GTO or stay grp4 - those overfenders could mask a little playing room. What are your plans for suspension / brakes? I have been spec'ing up a set of competition wilwoods but they require a 17" wheel.

I think we should start a secret club of modded ferraris - our own r-gruppe....

 

Sooooo….a Group 488 car then?
I think I know where you’re headed, but whatever you have up your sleeve I’m buckled-in and ready to go.
- Dave

 

Good day Paul,

I love your wall "art" (512BB logo/script)!

Cheers,

Sam

 

A 288 is roughly 4.5" longer in wheelbase than the 308. I like the look both stock length and a 3" stretch with the narrow 308 front bodywork and the very obvious rear flares, it looks right either way. If the bodywork is widened fore and aft then it needs more wheelbase for the proportions to looks right regardless of the engine layout, it's why a 308 length 288 doesn't look right, they look plump rather than sleek.

 

I'll check the tire sizes tomorrow.