612 F1 Fluid choice

Mobil 1 ATF is just fine .. been recommending it for 430s and newer 360 .. I do recommend Castrol Dex III for older cars for power steering and older 360's since there was talk about some seals that may not like the newer stuff
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I researched this topic before doing my first F1 fluid servicing in my 612. I found this post on FChat which helped guide me. I sampled the F1 fluid that was in my car when I bought it, and saw that it was clearly amber in color (not red, not green). So, I proceeded to do my servicing with Petronas Tutela CS. My F1 system works really well, and I'll keep using Tutela CS unless I discover some reason to change. I would recommend taking a look at your fluid color and then match it to MotoB's suggestions below. I have always heard that you should not mix different fluids, and I would tend to agree. I hope this helps.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f1-alarm-or-death-scream.605122/#post-146757300

Post #19
(From MotoB) "The original spec fluid for the F1 system in your car was Shell Donax TX, which is no longer made, now Shell Spirax S4. Both of these fluids are red in color and are basically a synthetic version of Dexron 4 ATF. Neither of them is available in the USA, except from a Ferrari Dealer.

The F1 system in later Ferraris used Fiat Tutela CS Speed, which is amber in color, and then finally Pentosin CHF 11S, which is bright green in color.
I have seen earlier cars with the amber Fiat Tutela CS Speed fluid in them, which is probably what is in your car.

I wouldn't worry about it, as long as it is hydraulic oil/ATF and not brake fluid then you should be fine. Many people use Redline D4 synthetic ATF, which works fine."

 

Good point about color - I usually ask but forgot this time ... so change my recommendation above with "if red..."

 

That Mobil1 ATF DEX III

 

Chindit described how he changed his F1 fluid in this thread: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/i-did-the-major-service-on-my-612-here-are-my-thoughts.678220/#post-149604163

 

I've done this several times now, as recently as a week ago. I've gotten pretty good at it and now it doesn't seem like such a big deal. Still, the F1 reservoir is in a pretty crappy location and really is only accessible by feel. You can use a telescoping inspection mirror or an inexpensive digital endoscope camera like this one...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8HKQFPD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

...to get a good look into the top of the reservoir. Recently I realized I had misunderstood the workshop manual servicing instructions. Now I know that the reservoir is properly serviced by 1) topping-off the reservoir and then 2) moving the key to the accessory position to get the F1 pump to run (pressurizing the systems and drawing fluid from the reservoir), then 3) draining the reservoir until the fluid level is approximately 5mm above the metal dividing plate that is inside of the reservoir. That is the purpose of the Ferrari tool described in the manual. It is designed to allow the ~5mm of fluid level to be accurately achieved. Thus, I modified my servicing tool to have that 5mm gauge (see pic below). Basically, the chambered tip of my copper drain pipe rests vertically on the metal dividing plate inside of the reservoir. I then siphon the fluid until I see bubbles in the drain line and then I remove the copper pipe. That way I know I have the correct 5mm fluid level in the reservoir.

I used to do this procedure while my car was up on the Quickjack 7000, and I would be laying on a creeper. That worked ok but it was a little awkward while trying to reach way up into the reservoir. I'm fortunate to have a 4-post lift in my garage now and that makes the procedure SO much easier! I hope this helps.
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When you want to do the suction and replenishment method you want the fluid in the reservoir to be at the highest level so you can take out as much as possible and replenishes as much as possible... that is why you want the system pretty much with no pressure ..sometimes the easiest way is to remove the relay and the let it sit

When you want to measure the level of the fluid you want the pressure to be at its highest which is right after the pump shuts off after a cycle so hopefully that clarifies everything..the way is to turn key on motor off cycle thru a few gears (1-n1) until pump comes on and then immediately measure after the 3 4 seconds it runs

 

Ah yes, I'm sorry for the confusion on that. As Flash32 says, leave the system unpressurized when you want to draw-out the maximum amount of old fluid. But you must have the system pressurized to ensure you have the proper level of fluid when you are finished with your work. That is the step that I neglected before, and I ended up over-servicing my F1 reservoir. That is what caused this fluid leak inside my undertray. And it smelled bad with a kind of "rubber burning" smell...likely caused by the spilled F1 fluid contacting my exhaust pipes. I haven't had any further trouble once I learned how to properly service my reservoir. And yes, you must remove the cross member and then the heat shield. Access to the F1 reservoir is pretty easy after that.
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