Testarossa Clutch choices in 2025 (USA)

The clutch on my 1988 Testarossa is slipping (at 50k miles) and I've been busy search this forum. I've gathered there are 3 options from most expensive to least:

Choice #1 512TR Clutch from Hill Engineering around $5,800 (Ricambi price incl 15% US tariff)
https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/cck-testarossa
https://www.ricambiamerica.com/testarossa-clutch-conversion-kit.html

All inclusive kit and upgrades the dual plate to the 512TR and later single plate design, drop shipped from Hill Engr in a week. The Ricambi rep said comes with no instructions, take it to a shop.
Found a few references here from folks that said they've done it, but couldn't find details on either installation or satisfaction. Any links or feedback?

I looked at the 512TR WSM and appears simpler that the shimming and clearances required on the dual plate option below. Not sure if it's worth the added cost for me, easier clutch operation and subsequent changes will be easier/less frequent is the claim I suppose?


Choice #2. Dual Plate "OEM" or similar.
Lot of previous mentions of an AP Racing clutch kit, but I can't seem to locate a dealer that carries this - so NLA?
Rutlands: "OEM" is $3850, TO bearing $480, seals $250, so approx $4,600
AW Italia: Mfr is Come' or something like that, $3000 clutch, approx $3,400 incl seals and TO

From the threads I've read, getting the pressure-plate preload and various clearances is hit or miss, with some saying they just popped it in and it worked fine, and others struggling with getting it right. It's not clear to me if the clutch assembly comes with various spacers or I need to hunt and search for them.


Choice #3 Rebuild your current clutch
Looks to be the cheapest option if you know what you're doing, sound like you'd better check each dimension and it often requires sending it back if its not right. Need to diametrically oppose the heavy "H" parts of the twin clutch plates, balance the combo of PP, intermediate ring, and spacer. Check taper pins that have a shoulder, and turn it down, etc. All this in addition to the above. Groan!
www.allfrictions.com
https://clutchmasters.com: $1,800, 10 day turnaround. They claim they will rebalance, etc. Do they?

Oh boy, I'm stuck in analysis paralysis, could use some help.

First off, is this list the additional seals and parts I need, or am I missing other items like gaskets and such? I know I'll need exhaust gasket and bolts - any body have specs/source?




For the X = B - (A+C+D) equation, the WSM shows how to get A and B. For D, I just stick a feeler gauge in the flywheel slot?

Any other choices/retailers I should look at for under the Choice#2?

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https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/part/ferrari/124680

cheaper - scroll to Italian aftermarket
https://www.superformance.co.uk/testarossa/clutch.html

 

I was factory trained on them, have worked on them ever since and have had a 90 TR since 1998 so have some experience.

Choice 1. Great conversion and a far superior clutch.
Choice 2 with AP unit. You have been told a lot of nonsense. Take it out of the box and install it. Works just great. Some people are too stupid to pour piss out of a boot with the instructions on the heel. Ignore them.
Choice 2 with the AW unit. Bad idea.
Choice 3. I have tried many times to get a quality rebuild on a multi disc clutch and never end up with anything I want to give a customer. It always costs me a lot of money in the end having a pile of scrap parts on the floor I will not use.

You have 2 good choices.

 

Thanks Brian, Where is this available to purchase? It's my first choice, but no one seems to have it in stock, I've called the usual vendors

That's good to hear, would you mind expanding your feedback?

 

Expensive part for 35 year old car. Are you surprised no one stocks it? I suspect anyone can order it.
I gave you feed back.

 

So from Superperfornace, the Hill Engr clutch is USD $3,185 + $75 shipping, and I'll be responsible for customs/tariff, so assuming it would be 15% that's a tad over $5K, so slightly cheaper than Ricambi

 

The cheap one was an Italian aftermarket for 1600 or so.

What's the lead time on the AP? I've seen 7 days.

 

I have that 550M upgrade kit from Ricambi. I'd recommend it.

 

AP is backordered and superperformance as well as US retailers are saying that is NLA (no longer available).

Does anybody have an AP Racing clutch pack for sale or know of a retailer that has it in stock (listed on website generally means nothing) ?

 

https://www.ital-spares.com/brand/ferrari/6451/ap-racing-clutch-set/kupplungssatz

Don't know if the 7 days is accurate.

 

What do you like about it? I am just curious on its improvements over the original equipment.

 

I didn't notice a huge difference in feel, however it's supposed to be very robust. I drive my TR very conservatively, but I still like the peace of mind knowing it's just better/improved over the OEM.

 

Every one I have installed the owner (and myself) noticed vastly better feel and it is a very robust clutch unlike the dual disc.
They were designed for cars with considerably more torque. Also the design for all of them do not allow the self adjusting feature to compensate for wear over the entire life of the disc. The twin disc is even more so do to all the additional overall disc thickness. Ferrari by design is cheating you out of the use of considerable clutch material because of that design. My old friend Mac Tilton of Tilton clutches insisted it was intentional.

 

Interesting point, when I was searching I saw a couple of posts that asked if the clutch could be adjusted by removing spacers. If I recall, the posts said this was in the BB manual, but it should apply to the TR as well. Never saw an authoritative answer to that question, but it seems like if you’re doing all the work to get open the bell housing, you might as well replace. Had the Hill Engr kit incorporated that it would have been compelling for me

 

Had the Hill Engineering kit incorporated what?

From a running car you can have a TR clutch laying on the floor in an hour. I guess it only makes sense to go ahead and install the $3000 clutch with such a heavy investment of time.

 

I installed the Hill single disc clutch conversion in my '88 TR from Ricambi and couldn't be happier. The drag between the plates is less as there is only one thus shifting is considerably better as well as clutch pedal feel with the new slave cylinder. Is it pricey? Yes, but only adds to the value of the car.

 

So I got time to work on it over the weekend and got the bell housing off. Before taking off the pressure plate, is it possible to measure the “C” dimension (“distance between working surface and pressure plate supporting surface”) in the WSM? Or anything else so I have a “before” and “after” set of measurements?

it also looks like the X spacer is installed above the leaf, not under like its supposed to be?

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A few questions with Testarossa clutch install

 

It is unfortunate that they didn't include a figure about this in the TR WSM, and yours does seem wrongly assembled. Some further implied evidence is given in the TR SPC figure that the assembly order is 7 - 11 - 8 whether it's a solid part of 8 or the leaf piece on 8 (otherwise, 11 for the leaf position would've been shown between the leaf piece on 8 and disk 2):

https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/testarossa-tr-90/028-clutch-controls-(starting-from-car-no-80095-80146-ch-80177-us)

 

The difference in spring deflection between the spacer being above and below is miniscule. I have seen so many assembled both ways working fine it seems to make no difference. As far as calculating shim size I have done it a lot. I gave up long ago measuring anything. I assemble so it has very little convex shape to the spring fingers. Get it too flat and it goes just a hair over center with full compression and at high RPM centrifugal force prevents the clutch from reengaging until RPM drops. .

 

The weekend shade tree wannabe mechanic is back at it. Decided to go with the Hill single plate unit, can anyone advise if it comes with the rear main oil seal and the two O-rings around the transmission shaft? I assume “while I’m in there” I do want to change out the RMS, correct?

Anything else I should be changing that’s not included in the Hill kit?


And here’s what the clutch looks like, is this OEM original clutch or has it been swapped out previously? It’s got “FMA” logo and “57528 flywheel side” stamped on it. Any comments on its current state?

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what is RMS?

 

Rear main seal

 

I don’t recall all that’s in the kit. My advice it to call Ricambi, give them your serial number and tell them what you’re doing as they have a list of all that’s included. Your serial number is important as there is a change in the slave cylinder at some point. Enjoy and be sure to have the clutch alignment tool.

 

Every few years I see an OE rear main seal that leaks. Every rear main seal I see that has been replaced leaks to some degree because it is almost never correctly installed. They last for decades why replace it ? The ONLY rear main seals I replace are replacement seals.

That does not look like an OE clutch. And it was installed by someone clueless.