Unbreakable Temp/Vent/Choke Lever Bezels at Last!!!!

No worries, no rush - have a great time on your vacation and we'll deal with it upon your return.

Regards,

Scott


Bill you are having too much fun but you did not show the bezels on the rear of your Dino!

 

Thanks Verell, I received them quickly.

The mushroom cap and spring are difficult to reinstall and I used a LOT of lubricant yet the lever action is far more difficult (binding) than the original - any hints before I do the other 3?
THX

Also, upon removing the black, round, paddle handle how do they come off of the lever shaft? Mine had a turns in the lever so it looks like you must rotate the blcak handle while pulling to remove it from the original shaft, correct? I ended up cracking one and don't want to do that again.

 

Hey Verell,

Any word on when your replacement black lever caps wll be ready for production & shipping?

Been waiting awhile, but will gladly continue to do so for your quality stuff.

V/r,

mwr

 

Crap Verell.

I plumb forgot. My bad. I'll post it ASAP. Probaly by the end of this weekend.

Mark

 

Verell,

Check Email.

Mark

 

Photos attached, apologies in the delay. The top row are the original pieces bith fully assembled and then the removed piece while the second row is the same for the new items.

VERY nice finishing on the Verell parts, Thank you.

First, sorry about that paddle handle turns thing, it is not threaded but was my fault in attempting to remove a stuck paddle - the black paddle was stuck frozen and did not come off easily. It suffered. I've first started on the choke lever which is the least important of all four levers/bezels.
Any help in hints to remove the remaining 3 paddles on a 37 year old car is appreciated. I've drizzled penetration oil on the shaft and left it placed the shaft up/paddle down position wth hopes it leeches itself in over time to facilitate removal. I'm in no hurry, just don't want to break another.

Secondly, there are two issues that may be related;
- removing/replacing the cotter pin/mushroom cap as the strong spring undernesth them requires a lot of counter pressure to remove. It appears I need a cylindrical tool with a slot in it to depress the end cap to compress the spring/relieve tension to allow the cotter pin out;
- and the tight lever action which is far more difficult to move on the re-installed new part than the original lever (I'm not saying the new parts are the culprit but possibly my re-assembly or deformation of the end cap).
The issue of "lever wander" under full range deflection is not that big of a thing.

Any hints on removing/replacing the msuhroom shaped end cap and cotter pin with the stout spring underneath it? I've made a mess of the choke lever end cap by using a vice but its not seen and again it is the least important of all levers.

I've thought of a few possible solutions
1) cut a small portion of the spring off to remove the tension
2) replace the spring with a spacer

Has anyone else encounter this issue?
Thank you in advance
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I ordered some of Verell's unbreakable bezels recently. I got them last week and have to report that they are more exquisite than any pictures suggest. Almost too nice to bury under the centre consol. The slight spots visable in my pictures are rain drops.

So yesterday I began fitting them. As you can see my old stuff had had it completely. Having oiled the cables and greased the moving parts the first one went in without any problems whatsoever. I am delighted. Then ran out of time so hopefully will finish the job off today.

My labels are original and in more than OK condition, just need cleaning up. I prefer originality where possible.

Will add pictures of the finished job later.

Mark Shannon

www.markshannon.net
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are these still available??? i have a broken choke bezel....

 

They most certainly are:

www.unobtainiumsupply.com

I would strongly suggest you take a deep breath and do them all whilst you are in there. The originals are just useless cheap plastic. I would have done the choke one as well, but it is in perfect condition having been replaced before and also I never use it, and have taken the chance, whilst in there, to actually disconnect the cable.

I finished the job today and spent some time oiling the cables (buy an oiler from a motorbike shop) greasing the moving parts and then adjusting the cables.

Forgot to take pictures today but will do so when car next out in daylight.

Good luck.

Mark

www.markshannon.net

 

Hi Verell,

Did you ever get to making the knobs??? I need one, but will take a set to make it right.

Your bezels and lables are holding up nicely.

Thanks for the fine work,

Chris

 

Sorry if it's already been posted, but how does one remove the existing bezels? Do I need to crawl up underneath the dash? I'm not getting any younger

Verell- Do you have a set of 3 bezels with labels for a '74 246 GTS? And do you have the flat black buttons?

 

Solly, best bet is to do them lying on your back and looking up into the area where your radio normally would be. You definitely have to remove the radio and, maybe, even the voltage regulator. I'm an old geezer, so I removed the passenger seat and laid on a blanket while working. I did one control at a time, making certain to not switch which cable goes on which slider. It's a very tight space in which to work but it's not a difficult job . . . just a bit uncomfortable. It's well worth the effort.
Bill

 

Hello,

I am looking for the choke lever for my dino 308 gt4, 1975.
Do you have any of them, or an idea where I could find one?
As far as I understand there are not exactly the same as the 308 gtb?

Thanks
Romain

 

Does anyone know if Verell is still manufacturing the aluminum heater/defroster/choke bezels? I finally had my center console refinished and the original bezels don't do justice to the refinished console. Over 20 coats of polyester. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I tried to contact him couple times by email, for his TR bulb holders, but got no response. Maybe he retired from doing this?

 

I have emailed and left two messages over a week ago and no response from Unobtanium Supply Company. Does anyone know if they are still in business. The site is operational.