are you are looking for the top one in the picture below? if so, it's PN 16327932 Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is the “superseded” part number. It’s not even close to the original. But that’s what all the vendors sell now apparently. I guess it can work kind of, but hey, you can probably put mustang wheels on the car too ya know? Problem is the originals have a flap of rubber that you lift up and rivet underneath to the door panel. These just have the felt part and an extension. So you not only have to make new holes, but it won’t bend around the 1/4 window frame correctly, and it doesn’t have the rubber lip on the inside to sit nicely on the door panel so you’ll have a gap there. It’s just not right. I compare it to something Temu would send you. That seal you have in the middle, is that what came off of your car? Is that original? In that case, what I have in mine is not original (seems much more likely it is) and the superseded part actually is correct?
those aren't Mustang or Temu parts (but maybe there are some on your car?) That weather-stripping is sourced from: https://www.cicognaniguarnizioni.it/Ferrari-163/208-308-328-gtb-163-l27 in Italy and matches the originals perfectly. In the photos above, the top piece is the replacement from cicognani and the piece in the middle, which is faded and worn, is from a 1976 GTB and absolutely original. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I only use TEMU & Pep Boys parts on my car. The occasional duct tape and zip tie too. Not sure why you are taking direct offence about asking questions. Perhaps you should be more concerned that our vendors are selling parts that don't work / don't fit / are incorrect. The seal you show is 100% wrong for the 328 GTS. Maybe its correct for the 76 GTB, but its certainly not for the 328 GTS even though they all list it as such. Again, the ones on my 1987 328 GTS that came off are nice, molded rubber pieces as described and shown above. And it appears they will be getting re-used. I'll get some better pics to show the fitment.
See how the seal has a nice rubber lip to sit on the door panel. That doesn’t exist with the what I’ll call aftermarket parts. (Certainly not a supersession). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is the correct inner window sweep seal. Superperformance sells them, but are currently out of stock. They source CORRECT reproductions from a mfg. Not the Temu seal other vendors are selling that is 100% wrong. Unfortunately, the aftermarket Temu seals somehow share the same part number. So, anyone trying to get the correct seal, I would start with superperformance. From there I would message who you’re buying from and get pictures of the seal they will physically send you. correct seal Image Unavailable, Please Login Incorrect aftermarket “superseded” seal. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is the correct inner window sweep seal. Superperformance sells them, but are currently out of stock. They source CORRECT reproductions from a mfg. Not the Temu seal other vendors are selling that is 100% wrong. Unfortunately, the aftermarket Temu seals somehow share the same part number. So, anyone trying to get the correct seal, I would start with superperformance. From there I would message who you’re buying from and get pictures of the seal they will physically send you. correct seal Incorrect aftermarket “superseded” seal.
Boy...you sure have got your panties in a wad!! What you are calling "aftermarket Temu seals" or "Incorrect aftermarket “superseded” seal" are the correct window seals for early 308's as 85QVEuro said previously. Glad you were able to finally find the exact seal you were looking for
Rightfully so. It’s weird to me that you cannot understand my frustration. All the vendors sell that seal, for the 328. It’s wrong. Yea, my panties are in a wad. I go through this process with almost every single part I try to buy. It’s extremely frustrating. Hopefully in the future people can search window sweep 328 and save theirselves a lot of time and frustration. That’s one of my goals throughout this process and one reason I’m documenting it all. I enjoy doing this and take pride in my work. I wish the vendors would do the same.
Hi Tyler, circling back to a previous topic you discussed, have you figured out why your car starts and then dies? I fired up my 85 308 for the first time today (after a comprehensive refurbishment) and it's doing the exact same thing - strong solid run for a second or two then dies. Then fires right back up for a second or two etc. I can send you a PM to keep this thread focused on your car. Figured maybe we could put our heads together on this one. Thanks!
Still fighting the same issue. Ive gone through Everything. The fuel dist. is still being rebuilt but what we found was a bunch of junk around the plunger and it was sticking. Hoping that is the issue. The rebuild tech is confident that is my problem. We'll see in about a week. No idea where the "Gunk" came from. Everything is clean and new. I'll keep you posted.
Fuel distributor installed. Same result. Runs for a second, then dies. Seems even worse now. Cannot rev it up at all.
Fooock!! I can't imagine how frustrated you are. Been there, done that and I'm dreading being there again in a few months when I try my first start. Just a thought, any chance the leads to the two flywheel sensors are reversed? (Sorry if you've tried this already - I've read this whole thread but I can't remember seeing this come up before.)
i don’t believe I disconnected those. Do you have a pic or location of said sensors / connectors? I see the one on the rear by the oil cooler line but don’t remember seeing another. I would say no, because it did run but only above 3,000 rpm’s. And ran well. I’m willing to try anything at this point that’s quick. It’s something dumb. I just really don’t want to start throwing parts like coils at it. I’ll be out $10k more with the same problem. I appreciate the empathy hahah.
got it. I’ll check this out as a possibility. My tach does go to 9k rpm and jumps around when the battery is hooked up. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/how-to-change-the-ferrari-328-crank-sensors.528254/
I love this thread in the link above. Especially where Eurospares sold him the wrong part and caused him 6 hours of work. Gotta love it!
I have a 1987 328 GTB, so I'm pretty sure you and I have the same motor. There are two sensors. Both are mounted in the bell housing. If you were to imagine looking at the bell housing from behind (as if your eyes were in line with the axis of the crankshaft), there's one mounted at about 10 o'clock (this one is sort of hidden underneath the cooling system hardline pipe that sits inside the "V" and underneath the intakes) and one at about 3 o'clock. The sensors are physically identical (same PN) and have the same electrical connectors into the wiring harness, so very easy to reverse. The reason I'm throwing this out there is because your symptoms are sort of similar to issues I had on an old BMW where the machine shop had left the crank/flywheel alignment pin out of the crankshaft, so my flywheel was about 60° out of phase and therefore the crank position sensor was reading way off. Frankly, I doubt this is your issue, but I thought I'd throw it out there. My guess is that when you find the cause of this issue, it's going to seem simple and stupid in retrospect - but finding it will be a challenge!
And here's a pic. The yellow tape arrows point to the approximate locations where the two sensors are mounted. And note the harness connections. I *believe* (fingers crossed) that I have these sensors hooked up correctly. The white female harness connection goes to the sensor located to the right in the pic, and the black female harness connection goes to the sensor mounted to the left in the picture. Image Unavailable, Please Login Also, while you're at it, you might consider just ohming-out the two sensors. They're just hall-effect sensors, so at the business end it's just a wire coil around a steel center. If you get some high-ish ohm reading - say high hundreds or low/mid four figures, then the sensor is likely OK. (I think you may be able to search for the correct number ohm number, but really you're just trying to confirm that you have continuity in the sensor and the ohm reading isn't 'infinity'). I could imagine that a bad crank position sensor could be yielding your results ... admittedly I'm spit-balling a bit here, but I think the ECU has to be willing to start the motor w/o a good CPS signal, but if it doesn't see one pretty quick, then it shuts ignition off.
I love it! Thank you. Its been so long i may have had those apart. But not likely. I'll check tonight and see what happens. Thanks again for the info. Im 100% spit-balling at this point too so i appreciate an extra set of "Eyes" if you will. Thanks!
Plugs seem to be hooked up correctly. I reversed them and it was worse. Ohmed the two sensors out with the volt meter on 2k and got 728 on the front, 760 on the rear. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Damn. Those connections and those ohm readings look fine. So much for the easy win. This thread is starting to live rent-free in my head (" ... OK, Compression? Ignition? Fuel?"). This feels like it's either a fueling issue (most likely) or ignition timing (seems a stretch). Ignition timing should be easy to eliminate. Do you have access to one of those old-school inductive timing lights? I'd do a quick test ... hook the inductive pick-up to your #1 plug lead, pull the inspection port cover above the flywheel, shoot the light at the flywheel & confirm that the #1 plug is firing at about the time you see the #1 TDC mark on the flywheel. Fueling may be more difficult (I seem to recall you've already checked operation of the fuel pump). One thought I had is this: Is the WU regulator or the start-up aux injector providing enough fuel to get you started, but then the injectors aren't actually flowing fuel? That might explain the behavior here. I haven't worked much with K-Jet or continuous injection systems, but could you pull one fuel injector, leave it (or reattach it) to is fuel line, point the injector into some kind of clear container, then have someone try to start the car? (Having raw fuel vapors blowing out near a running engine isn't a great idea, so maybe have an extinguisher handy.)
I’ll try all of that. What doesn’t make sense it why it will run above 3,000 rpm’s perfectly and rev up to red line all day unless I let it drop below 3,000. At least before it did .
Ok. Disconnected the fuel feed and pulled the blue plug and I had to scramble to pig it back in. Filled a salsa jar in about 3 seconds. Pulled number one injector and depressed the flap, and it’s spraying nicely. Still same Result, if I play with the pedal I can get it to run between 3 and 7 thousand rpm. All day. Below that, dies. Seems like it’s getting too much fuel again. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Pulled the Throttle body and hose off and saw some fuel pooling in the upper intake that could only have come from the WUR. So, i put it back together, blocked that line off from the WUR, same result. Starts, shuts off. Pulled the fuel pump relay, and tried to run it on starting fluid. Same result. Runs, shuts off.
Tyler, my car (85 QV) was doing the same thing, run strong for a second then die. I just replaced the electrical portion of my ignition switch and now starts and keeps running! I can post more info later, and not sure this will solve your run issue (or is applicable to 328) but wanted to share. Cheers, Mike
