This is the problem I ran into with my Espada. I could not get it to run well with the stock jets and when I ran into a slew of Countach owners dealing with the same issues I found out that the idle circuits and accelerator pump circuits on those DCOE s just had to be modified due to how differently these engine run on gas with alcohol in it. What a PITA! Somewhat anecdotally I had a chance to compare gas with and WO alcohol on a more modern car my 2005 Jaguar S-Type R. A car that doesn't sip gas anyway. It's very hard to hit 21 MPG on the highway even if you're very careful. Round trip from my house in NJ to a spot in PA that sell alcohol free gas at a then reasonable price. I approached 24 MPH on the trip home .
Afternoon could one of you kind Bora owners tell me what version of the Carello H4 7” headlight are? should be a part number on the glass- xx.xxx.xxx
Both heads are now removed. Trying to do this with the engine still in the car would have been extremely difficult. Getting both chains to have the master links visible while the engine is at TDC is a task by itself. I probably rotated the engine 50 times before both links were visible at TDC. Ivan Image Unavailable, Please Login
Insane actually. Not that dropping the entire assembly is easier either. Are you taking the transaxle off to check on the clutch etc?
I was not thinking of looking for additional work but I will use a horoscope to see if I can determine the condition of the clutch lining and throw our bearing. The clutch was not shattering, which many Boras do, so I am inclined to leave it alone. Ivan
One of those two huge bolts that the shocks and springs hang on never came out of my car. Even after I had the sub-frame out, made trickier by the one bolt all efforts failed. I suggest some anti-seize. I wonder if a bigger version of the tool you utilized on the shift linkage taper pins would have worked.
The shock bolts were not a problem to remove. Anti-sieze is a good idea. I was told by a Maserati mechanic that the springs would not be under any tension when the rear tires are in the air .... not true. When it comes time to re-assemble I plan to reattach the springs before the cage is fully back in its place. Ivan
Perhaps it wasn't a typo You sometimes need help from the stars in order to work on these cars. The heads are now in the very capable hands of Ferraripilot, who is checking them out. I now know that two V8 heads fit in the trunk of a Granturismo. Ivan Image Unavailable, Please Login
When things got really difficult in all of my early early Biturbo travails I used to post about building a huge bonfire and dancing around it naked whist swing a dead chicken around madly.
I have some HI-8 video if you'd like, I didn't say I did the dancing. It was my female Voodoo priestess/mechanic.
This thread has become even more enteraining. Heres a boring question: How big a PITA is it to replace the clutch master cylinder? I though the slave was bad because the master had been rebuilt in the past. So I replaced the slave but still only can get a firm pedal by pumping it. I dont see any brake fluid anywhere under the car or in the drivers footwell. I think the master has a blown seal or something interal. I'm thinking its a couple hours with my head painfully in the footwell but any advise is well appreciated!
Never had to ... but I can only imagine how difficult that will be ... but not as bad as doing it has been so far in my Espada. The Espada's packaging for brake and clutch hydraulics is even lower and tighter than the Bora is and given that its a far shoddier built car than the Bora you end up having to re-engineer quite a few things. You begin by removing the wiper blades and arms, then the wiper motor on the LH side of the car, followed by the cable drive for the wiper in front of the driver. I gets a whole lot worse after that. so have fun. Requires at least two bonfires ... Just remember that it's actually brake fluid. So here's an interesting if insane while you at it upgrade idea ... Khamsin style clutch circuit! Clearly a 3 bonfire project and lots of naked Voodoo priestess's
There’s two nuts holding the master in place on the sled it goes back and forth on. The bottom nut was quite tight. I needed a half inch drive ratchet with a 13mm socket. The upper nut….well that may be my Waterloo. I cannot get a socket or box end wrench on it due to the high pressure banjo fitting causing interference. I can get a tiny 13mm open end wrench on it but I just cannot get enough leverage with that to break the nut loose. I have a longer wrench but again interference is an issue with all the other stuff up there. Trying to remove the banjo fitting looks challenging as well for all the same reasons. Anyone have any bright ideas? Has anyone here replaced a clutch master cylinder ? I see this as an engineering or design fail. But for sure people do replace these. Appreciate any advice.
By Neptune’s Trident!!! Two hours to get this out I was able to get the banjo fitting off with a ratcheting box end 17mm wrench. 2-3 clicks at a time due to interference. Then I could finally get a 13mm box end on the mounting nut and break it loose. Hopefully mounting the replacement will suck a bit less. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I do not know if this can be done on a Bora but on Ghiblis (which the clutch master is also a pain to remove) I replace the seals without removing the clutch master cylinder. From inside the car, disconnect the rod that goes between the pedal and the cylinder. Remove the rubber boot and the retaining circlip for the rod. Work out the internal plunger and seals. Once the internals have been removed, feel inside the cylinder for wear grooves. Use a 400 grit sandpaper to polish the inside of the cylinder. Put it all back together. Ivan
The clutch is very difficult to bleed and get all the air out. I have only been successful by reverse bleeding. ie put pressure on the slave cylinder
