2001 360 Blower Motor Issue

Hello

I have a non-functioning blower motor in my 2001 360. I've looked through the previous threads and done the diagnostics to roughly determine the motor and ECU are likely OK. That leaves me with solenoid valve regulator part number 64280200, I think. I've take the 2 mounting screws but can't seem to remove it from the climate control unit. It's loose and will move around 5mm or so, but won't come out.

Anyone have experience getting this thing out. Also, is this what's referred to as the resistor unit or is there some other component in here that commonly fails.

Appreciate the help

Pete

 

It's called many things. Fan speed regulator, electro-blower regulator, regulator valve, etc. Why it's called a valve, I have no idea.

I see it has a rubber gasket. Maybe that is getting caught on something or sealant has been used?

I'm curious to know what you've done?
Applied power directly to motor? Replaced the hidden fan fuse on the side of the evaporator?

The water recirc pump fuse behind the left hand seat powers several components, including the regulator. Of course, the regulator may not be getting a command from the control panel or ECU. They do fail from time to time.

 

I have not tested the "hidden fan fuse on the side of the evaporator". Can you provide some guidance where it is and what it looks like? Thx

 

Well, I don't know how hidden they are on the F360 (they can be tricky to find on F-cars that have carpeted shrouds between the centre console and dash). #7 is the fan fuse. #8 is for the ECU.

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i.e. on the same side as the fan speed controller.

 

Thanks Qavion. I did test that fuse and the ECU one also. Since those were visible I thought there may be some other in line fuse. I've tested the fan and it functions correctly. All the other servos and valves work as they should so I'm assuming the ECU is OK and it's most likely the regulator. Also reset the ECU, pulled the connectors to check for corrosion, found none. Checked all the other fuses behind the seats and in the boot, all good.

Anyway to test the regulator?

 

Not sure about the F360. On the 348/355 forum, @m.stojanovic (Miro) is the guru on fan regulators. He replaces components in the F348/F355 regulators to make them more bulletproof. His procedure for checking the F348/F355 regulator is here, but the F360 pin numbering is different.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/145911918/

Checking may simply involve finding the equivalent pins. The 6 wires on both types seem to have the same functions.

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There is a message thread on his project to refurbish the regulators, but I can't find it at the moment.

 

Since the blower resistor (64280200) is now quite challenging to find, what do people think about connecting the thinker blue and black wires and interrupt them with a toggle switch? That way you could turn the blower fully on or fully off. Not ideal obviously but full blast AC is better than no AC if this would work?

 

Hi, are you still around on the forums? If so, did you ultimately resolve this?

Also, when you removed the 2 screws to remove the solenoid valve regulator, did you remove the glove box or anything else to aid access to the screws?

I am unable to see how to remove this with the little space available and would very much appreciate some help.

Thanks in advance.

 

I had my resistor rebuilt about a year or so ago. It's really quite challenging to get out. I did remove the glove box. Actually also removed the airbag but now I can't remember if that was actually helpful. Once you get the glove box out, you can get a very small screwdriver in there barely and its takes some fiddling to get the screws out. There's one on top and another on the bottom. Look at some pictures of the resistor online for reference. To be honest, it was even more annoying getting it back in, but possible with some patience.

 

This is super helpful and very much appreciated. Thank you.

I did watch some dash removal videos and it seemed the airbag being out wouldn’t actually create much additional space from what I saw.

Once the screws are out is it fairly easy to pull out? Did you have yours rebuilt and if so, how long has it lasted?

Apologies for so many questions but just super thankful I found someone that has done this and want to take advantage of that.

 

It don't recall it being hard to pull out once both screws were out. Should come out with a little gentle wiggle. Don't pull hard on the wires becuase they are soldered onto a board inside the plastic case and you can damage the board. The hardest thing is getting the screws out (even harder to get them back in when you reinstall) since space is so limited. I recall reading that some people used an "offset screwdriver" which has the tip basically at 90 degrees. I bought one but it didn't really work for me. Ultimately I used a really small regular screwdriver. It was a while ago so I can't remember exactly what I did but I do recall it was frustrating with a lot of fiddling, shining a flash light at multiple angles, and feeling for the screw trying to get the screwdriver on it. It has been working fine since it was rebuilt. Its a really simple $10 kit with a couple MOSFET transistors lol. Found it online in UK from "Discount MG Rover Spares" since I think MG Rovers use the same resistor and its a very common item to fail lol.

 

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/repair-improvement-kits-1/products/mk2-45-zs-atc-transistor-pack-repair-kit-or-service-jgn000010

 

Again, thank you so much!

 

Thank you as well, again! I found another place in the UK that repairs then as well https://www.berlinettaengineering.com/products/electric-fan-regulator-ferrari-64280200?srsltid=AfmBOopIMb3uoTr4HHUGG3eMK0WPha8XfPyyUepDT4UVtA273g3q_HYu

I know this price is massively more than doing it myself but I’m so bad at electrical stuff and honestly I’d pay the extra for peace of mind knowing it was done by professionals.

Once I get it out I will likely go this route.

 

Probably best, knowing that it's sometimes not only the MOSFETs which fail. I would still check the current going to the fan with a jumper installed.

 

I’d prob need someone to walk me through that like I’m an 8 year old, unfortunately. I have seen the “jumper” term used, but not sure I fully know what that is or the intent.

 

As mentioned in the other thread, the regulator can be bypassed by using a short piece of wire to short two pins out on the fan regulator wiring....with the regulator plugs disconnected.

This is the jumper wire. It will make the fan run at its highest speed. One of the wires on the two pin plug will always be live, so you may want to use the battery cutoff switch to remove power until you have fitted the wire. You may need a 10 gauge piece of wire for this and something to strip back the insulation. Unfortunately, I don't know if the plug has pins or sockets.

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The easiest way of measuring the current going to the fan is to put a DC voltmeter probes across the 30 amp fuse (and use a table to convert the voltage to current). This is with the fuse fitted. Hopefully, the big fuse has small cutouts in it so you can put the meter probes on fuse metal part.


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If there are pins on the jumper wire side of the plug, you may be able to buy a crocodile clip style jumper wire.

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In this case, it doesn't matter if the two ends short out (as that is your goal to short out the pins). The wire gauge on those alligator clips doesn't look like they will handle 30 amps, but may be ok in the short term.

You will probably need a sharp knife to trim back the insulation on the wire if required.

 

Again, thank you so much for the help you provide on the forums.

 

In case anyone comes across this post again, I found the exact part/part # for Maserati for 90% less! It's also used in Rovers! https://masparts.net/product/maserati-electric-fan-regulator-x-a-64280200?utm_source=chatgpt.com

 

So you fitted this part? Or you simply used chatgpt as a reference?

 

Not mutually exclusive! Chat helped me identify the part. The good news is that I spoke to both Ferrari and Maserati parts departments and they confirmed that it is indeed the exact same part. Unfortunately, I am not the first person to discover this and the part is sold out (or heinously marked-up) everywhere. As mentioned earlier in this thread, I've also arrived at the conclusion that a rebuild or repair with the Rover part is the way to go.

 

Honestly someone needs to send this to china and have these made for the $18 part that this represents. More and more of these will be going as the years go by.

 

I'm trying to get my head around this logic as found here on Post #11
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/air-conditioner-on-my-360-modena.698246/

or

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" ...... With the blue and black wires shorted, leave the fan running to see if it fails (after a few minutes).
NB: Short the wires on the wiring harness, not the wires on the fan controller.

If the fan stops running after a few minutes with the jumper fitted, the blower fan is faulty. If it stops running with the jumper fitted, the ECU and fan controller should be ok....."

 

A jumper wire (on the light blue and black wires) bypasses the HVAC ECU-controlled Fan Speed Controller (hedgehog or whatever it's called) and runs the fan at MAX speed.



With the jumper fitted...

If your fan doesn't turn at all, then it's a power issue or fan issue.
If your fan runs at MAX speed, then the fan is ok.... unless it stops some time afterwards, then it's also a fan issue (overheating, etc).
If the fan runs indefinitely, then it's a fan speed controller or HVAC ECU issue (or in rare cases, the fan speed knob on the A/C control control panel)... or wiring.

 

Ferrari 355's have issues with melting wiring, so that's also a possibility on the 360. The connector pins can form poor contacts and that creates hot spots.

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Ideally, you'd want to check the current going through the jumper wire. Don't use a cheap digital multimeter to check the current (They only go up to about 10 amps). You'll probably need a clamp meter or just use the "voltage" method shown earlier (across the fuse) in post #17