I'm preparing my popcorn..... In seriousness, the fact that you are doing the work yourself is fantastic.
It's kind of par for the course... The throttle bodies were loose, I easily just pulled one off. The valve covers were leaking(I found this while pulling the clutch). There was also leaking into the spark plugs. Glad I caught this as that could make me car eat some coil packs. The timing belts were loose, so I am just going to replace those anyways(there were just done). For a BAT car that's excellent shape. People need to realize that these auctions are wholesale auctions, and be prepared to fix them correctly. You can't PPI these cars before buying them. There is less recourse buying a car on one of these auction sites than getting a car from copart. Especially, when buying from a dealer. I have been doing this for years and was prepared to fix a few things.
So.. I had a weekend of disassembly since I am waiting on parts -Pulled the pedal box -Removed the intake(makes it a lot easier to do the valve covers) The seals were on borrowed time -Pulled the valve covers -Removed 3 of the 4 headers. The back left one requires disconnecting the steering rack. So I will wait until I put the headers back on to do that one No top tips for this week. Everything is pretty straight forward. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sunday I rebuilt/tested the injectors.. Had to fix my Chinese injector cleaner. It's not the best made machine, but it gets the job done. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
@otoupalik this exact comment is so true and very depressing. I know BaT people like to see a new belt change but what happens when a ding dong is the one that did it 8-( https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/150197544/
The car has 12,500 miles. Believe it or not they all flowed pretty well from the get go. Only two flowed slightly less, but were fixed with cleaning/new filters. This is surprising from a car that spent most of its life sitting. I probably didn't need to do this, but I'll sleep better at night knowing they are ok. As odd as it sounds, BAT is one of the few places you can get these cars at sane prices. Not sure why private sellers like to take the market value and add another 50-100 grand.
Pedals. I will do this in order. 1. I removed the brake pedal and measured the length with a set of calipers. 2. Cut off the extra brake pedal length, by the length of the clutch pedal. 3. Fine tuned the length of the brake pedal buy using the calipers(Putting both pedals on the shaft, and measuring with the calipers). 4. Once that is fit, I had to drill one side of the brake pedal to fit the new bushing(23 mm drill bit) 5. Installed the bushing on the brake pedal. 6. Fit both pedals back into the pedal box. I used Shin-Etsu grease on the shaft and the bores. https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M 7. Installed two 35mm studs for the master cylinder. 8. Installed the master cylinder with two BMW slave cylinder bolts(same material type as Ferrari). BMW 2 * part# 07129906196 9. Installed the pedal box. 10. For me it was easier to remove part #163587 from the steering system so that I can hook up the clutch return spring. So remove that part, hook up the spring, then reinstall that part. 11. I had to chase the threads on the bolt that holds the clutch switch(m12 1.5). 12. Installed the clutch switch. The wire harness is already there for it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I’ve been looking at 993 turbos lately and have noticed the exact same thing. Interesting, private and dealer asks are insane.
You'll have to give me a ride in your 993 when your purchase it. Or..at least let me look at form 15 feet away. I did purchase a 355 GTS today that I will convert as well. The difference in price between a 3.6 964 turbo(my favorite)/993 turbo and a 355 is astounding. I just sold my 996 turbo track car, and it was extremely reliable over the last 7 or so years.
I have a 996 turbo and a C2 993 right now…fantastic cars, some of my very favorites of all time to be honest. The 993 Turbo is a “maybe”, as it would mean moving some things I maybe don’t want to…but as you mentioned with 964 Turbos, I feel like I should grab one while they’re still _somewhat_ reasonable. Not really reasonable at all, but this market continues to be bonkers so the whole frame of reference is screwed haha
Still waiting on parts....come on DHL. Anyways, cleaned up the wires and removed the tcu. The picture below has the wire you need to ground. Will probably remove the harness from the car in the future, but it's tough to work on the interior due to the cars location. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had mine done by Wil de Groot. Had I known how easy it was, I would have just gone to home depot and bought some husky tools. Damn !!
I did finally get some parts, some were better than others.. Tried to fit the clutch, but the disk was too large.. The HILL crank lock, doesn't work at TDC. Maybe my clutch was installed wrong before I got the car, but as it is, it won't lock at TDC. Anyways, I did the rear main seal. If I can, I usually will install the seal on the panel off the car. It is easier for me to get the seal in straight that way. To install the back panel on the crank, I cut up a solo cup. Then I put it on the crank to slip the seal over it(if you look closely, you can see the plastic on the crank). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This next post dedicated to @ClydeRomero bent valves. I wouldn't trust most mechanics with this task, as there are a lot of ways you can ruin your motor trying to replace these bearings...It takes a lot of "feel" to get it right. To replace front cover bearings.. 1. Remove the front cover. This is a pita. 2. Remove the front pully. I had to use a press to remove the gears from the bearings. 3. Remove front and rear c-clips. 4. You can hammer out both bearings. 5. Clean all the front cover, and any corrosion off the gears. 6. Hammer in the bearing, using the old bearing. Stop when it gets about half way. 7. Install the 0-ring in the middle. Slowly hammer in the bearing and keep checking the seal. 8. Once it's passed the seal, I installed the rear conic washer and c-clip. 9. Hammer the bearing the rest of the way and install the front c-clip. Makes sure there isn't too much pressure on the front and rear clips. 10. I hammered in the gears from the back. I used a bearing and a socked to distribute the load on the installed bearing(you don't want to mess up the new bearing).
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Why didn't you use the press that you had used to remove the bearings? Using a hammer sounds unnecessarily brutal to me. I used a press both ways and that made the process as smooth as silk.
I would have, but it just tapped in(no hard force). That way I can control the pressure better so that I can get to the o-ring. If you clean everything properly you should not have to use a press(no brutal force, just tap in). The factory service manual did not use a press either.
Replaced the inner gear bearings. The race in the old ones were plastic which seems a little weak to me. I am waiting on a crank seal before I reinstall the front cover. I am considering pulling the cams so that I can do check the backlash on the gears.
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Using a press allows applying the lightest effort required to push the bearings in and in a continuous, smooth manner. That should always be preferred, when possible, over any method using hits with a hammer. Whatever works best for you anyway.
Yet again waiting on parts(clutch/front crank seal). I did replace the boot on my brake booster. The boot on my booster just disintegrated. Replaced the camshaft seals, using an old bearing tool.
