Shifting from 1st to 3rd after cold start

Answered your own question. Just drive.

 

My car simply cannot be shifted to 2nd until it's warm, on a summer day that's about a mile and longer in the spring/fall. As noted, if yours shifts fine then no need to avoid it

 

same as my car.

if the gearbox inside is adjusted right and of course outside from the shifter to the gearbox then you not have problems shifting when cold from 1st into 2nd. before I rebuilt my gearbox I also had this problem, but after rebuilding it is all ok

 

It certainly is not from a lack of lubrication. Many of the gears are sitting in a pool of oil before even being started and as soon as you start it the interior of the gearbox looks like a blender with everything drenched in oil in the first second. Another wives tale. Both prior posts pretty well cover it. My only addition would be if you have an issue shifting to second when cold you really should consider different oil. It does not need to be that way.

 

I always let the car wrm for5- 10 mins or so before pulling away. I like to see some temp on the oil needle before moving. By then the gearbox has some heat also which means this should not be an issue. In addition double declutch out of habbit esp while going slow(lack the coordinatoin at speed).

Best thing to do in genral is warm up the car before going on the move(helps gearbox too), then work the speed up.

 

I never had any shifting problems but one day Patrick Ottis mentioned it to me about being good to your gearbox, so I adopted the habit as good form.

From then on I did not leave my parking spot until the water temperature came alive, and did not shift 1st to 2nd until the oil temperature came alive.

It costs nothing and can't hurt.

 

so you always wait until the oil needle moves a little? but then you have to wait much more than only 5-10 minutes

 

My understanding is that idling for this long does more harm than good. Better to let the car warm under light driving conditions. Not to mention the cost of gas burned and exhaust filling your garage!

 

i sart the car and back it out the garage. Then I let it idle untill the oil temp rises off the peg. I have a BBI so smilar to a TR. I think there are 14 qts of oil in there. Do you know the damage of thick oil and revs. Ferrais have great oil pressure idlign does no harm. Running amtor esp and aluminum one before all the metal components have warmed and expanded is not a good plan.

Once I have the oil off the peg then I start rolling slowly working up the speed, when there is some good oil temp, well my car then lives in the pwerband between 4-6500k rpm with some moments above.

I always let my fast cars, boast etc warm up properly, Ive also done proper engine break ins(which is why used low mileage ferraris are such a potential time bomb).

I have one boat with a 1991 mercury 200 properly run in when new and always and warmed before hitting it, it still has great compression. My track car is approaching 12k miles all on track, equivalent to 120k road miles, dosent burn a drop of oil.

Always warm the engine(how much might be a debate) and then slwy work it up to speed over miles. All those different metals in there expand at different rates and full tilt requires everyhting(oil tranny internal metals) properly up to temp imo.

 

And you are suggesting not following your warm up procedure will result in less satisfactory results. Sorry, you are just wrong. Modern multigrade oils like 5-40 or 0-40 make such prolonged warm ups a waste of time. If what you say was true our road sides would be littered with dead cars.
If I had to wait for an oil temp indication on our TR before driving it on a cold day it would never leave the drive way. On cold days the oil temp needle never moves. Oh the horror.

 

I use 20/50 in the bbi
Not a big deal to get it off the peg before moving off.

modern cars are different

 

in the gearbox???

 

in the engine or motore invitation
I like tinker it warm up a bit before driving off and the. Use an I ceasing tempo to bring it fully up to temp.
When I drive the car it’s open roads and I’m not hanging about. I lien everything g up to temp before hitting it.

that’s 5 mins or so of warmup and the gently working the speed up for a few miles

 

Sean, we are talking here about shifting and this has nothing to do with the engine oil

 

Clown show question.

Conversation progressed. Keep up.

 

My theory and experience is the motor should be well warmed before really getting on it. Motor heat also transfers indirectly over to the box and box oil temp affects shifting smoothness. I cant think of any manual car I own that shifts as well cold as when the box is warm.

As an extreme, on my track car I always let the motor warmup untill the coolant get close to normal temp. I usualy shut it off then because I may not be going out for another 15 or so mins, it takes at least 5-10 mins to strap in helmet on get settled etc. In that time there is going to be a certrain amount of heat soak from the motor to the box. Its also true that on track the first one or two laps are under the yellow so speeds are not too extreme and Im not running the motor up near redline, by the time the checkered flag drops evrything is warm and flowing and you can just lean on it .

On a road car, say a modern toyota, with 0w20 oil these are probably not considerations and the motor is unlikly to be going anywhere near redline, and certainly not initially. Also on modern cars emissions are a big issue, and they desire you to get the cats up to temp as soon as possible, therefore discourage a slow warmup.
A freind who's wife had a new audi that parked outside. Every morning started it put it in drive and drove off, first part up a hill. In the winter maybe the tempos are well below freezing. Maybe its just an audi thing but I was not surpised to hear that the car by 50K miles was burning a quart of oil per tank of gas.


In a high performance car even if you use a high fllow light oil, there are things liike aluminum pistons that should heat uniformely and expand into the bore, blocks that expand at their own rate etc, so its not just oil flow. But a high performance engine is designed first and foremost around running hard up in the powerrband, thats where the components are or should be optimised. I try not to stress any component until they're up to temp. Gearbox oil when cold likewise does not flow the same and a box can feel stiff, as the oil warms and floes better so do the shifts. No question it shifts better after a few blocks, and I do like to double declutch and match revs esp in the beginning of a drive.

To me a ferrari or older ferrari is like a fine wine, you uncork it let it breathe and then enjoy. A porche is more like a beer, pull the tab and drink, They can both get you drunk but the experience is very differnt.

One of my issues with any used car esp say a newer ferrari or porche is that maybe it led a hard early life in the first 5k miles. We see all those peole redlining rigth off the bat, doing burnouts etc, they dont know and dont care. So you buy a 5k mile car that looks new, at 30k miles or less all issues crop up. Maybe you dont need to do 1000s of miles to break a motor in anymore, but to me the first few hundred are critical for the mtor box diff etc. Even on my track car, I did a few backroad gentle miles and then spent a few days at the track with self imposed rules on revs working the motor up over 3-400 miles, there were prbbaly afew redlines here or there but not much and very little full throttle and of corse evryhtign was warms and fully up to temp. .

As I said so far depite its 12k track miles which have all been in the powerband up to redline it burns no oil and runs great, same with the box. Ive seen plently of blown motors at the track and in my youth completly grenaded a 350 chevy, at 28k miles a motor that had no break in and was hammered.

i guess I'm saying two things, a decent warmup depending on conditions winter summer etc are different, then a few gentleish miles working the motor up to temp is great for the motor and the heat transfer helps with the gearbox,

More than that any new car esp a fast one should have some sort of break in before you really hammer it. That all pays many dividends down the road.

Yesterday took the BBi for a morning drive. Air was 70 degrees F when we started. I ran the mtor for Id say less than 5 mins before we set-off, coolant was mostly up to temp, by the time I had 3 point turned in the driveway and driven out the oil was off the peg. I dont think I used more than maybe 4500-5k briefly for the first 2 miles, thats 3kms. Then the road opened up, Id say the oil was below but close to normal and coolant normal. The motor by then had been running n maybe 10 mins 5 of which were gentle driving, the road oped up and I let her rip. Shifting etc were all fine.

If I just started the car and drove off first thing, i know for sure the box would feel difficult and stiff esp 2nd. My box has 90 weight oil in it.

On my waterski boat, if youre skiing the mtor is going to go from idle to 3500 rpm as fast as it can and then stay there under load of a boat in water which si extreme. In the morning before a ski I will let it warmup for 5 mins, even then that first start you can see the oil pressure is way higher than when its fully warm. Not saying thats harmful, just that a warm up to get everything flowing is great for longevity. The boat motor has 700 hours on it now also burns no oil runs fine.

Just had lunch with someone who told me he drove his honda accord 500k miles on the original engine. His service schedule was per the book, oil changes at 10k miles, so modern synthetic or near synthetic oils are great, this came up every 6 moths. He was also gentle on his car. . I never put my car to bed for the winter without fresh oil and one drive to bring everything up to temp, plus a tank of race fieul which does not degrade so fast. But maybe Im ridiculous, I hear with a modern synthetic if you're doing say 500 miles per year then tests show the oil is good for 2-3 years. Id always read that acids build up in oils and letting old oil sit is not good. But maybe Im too extreme.

Its maybe going off topic but my e46 M3 will do maybe 500 miles this year, It had fresh liqui molly put in last October before bedtime. So Im thinking maybe to let it ride another year given the mileage use so low and modern oils supposed to have great detergents..Thoughts?