360 window micro switch

99% I wouldn't know how to do it nor what to look for. Lol.
I think I saw a diagram of which pins to check while lifting the door handles. There's only two probes on a volt meter. I could possibly stumble my way through it and hope I'm reading it right.

 

I see Radio Shack has closed in Fresno. Is there a Harbor Freight near you?

https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/9-function-digital-multimeter-with-audible-continuity-59410.html

If you find something online, post a link and we can tell you if it's suitable (not too complicated, no selections with 10 different functions depending on how many times you push a button, etc). I can draw diagrams showing you how to hook up the test leads.

Then all you need is a screwdriver to remove the door plug.

 

I have a bag of micro switches if anyone is looking

 

Grabbed a meter. Now just gotta figure out where to put it.

 

Assuming driver's door, older car....

Put probes across pins 12 and 14. Note the odd numbering of the connector on the door. Smaller pins and large pins are numbered separately.

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Select ohms (R). If there is a variable ohms setting, pick the lowest. Observe readings when you lift and drop the handle. If the switch is triggered at a reasonably small angle, that's good.

Maybe post a photo of meter, just so we know what we are dealing with

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Sorry, wrong type of door handle... Pull and release.

 

This, I can do. You've been a huge help, thank you. In regards to the driver's door, my car is US version so hopefully it's the right driver's door lol

 

The door harnesses should be pretty much identical left to right. There is only the outside air temperature sensor wiring which is different (on the driver's door)... and, on both left and right hand drive cars, the sensor is on the driver's side.

 

Car is a 2000 Modena, US spec. I'll be working on it tonight, to see how it goes. Now that I have it literally drawn out for me, it will be easy peasy. I can *do* anything, but finding where to check and probe electronics is where I am most weak. Meter:

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Looks good.

Use these inputs/settings for your resistance/continuity check.

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If the door handle switch is activated, you should get a beeeeep.

The only issue with these kind of meters is the amp (A) limit for measuring current. When checking fan, pump and battery/alternator circuit currents, you'd need a special meter.

 

By door plug, I assume the wire harness literally attaches to the door at the front, and that's what I am removing. Wish me luck, I'm headed out right now.

 

Correct.

Hopefully you have enough garage space to open the door (or fine weather outside)

 

So when I read "screwdriver" I thought that meant I needed to remove the screws mounting everything to the door, although it looked like everything snapped together. Not wanting to break anything, I removed the screws lol.
For anyone reading this: you use a flathead screwdriver to help unsnap the harness from the door.
Tested the outer handle. Saw a change in ohms. Then my friend reminded me of had an issue while opening from the inside, too. So I thought to check the switch for "window up". I saw increased ohms with window down but couldn't check to see if it closed when up because windows won't stay up with the door open. Lol.
So, I swapped the ECU for a Maserati unit. So far, so good.
If it happens again, I'll be certain it's the window switch.

 

Sometimes just connecting and reconnecting the ECU plugs improved the pin conductivity. I don't know if that would have helped (but a cheaper first option than a new ECU).

Not sure what you mean by increased ohms. I thought the reading should have gone from infinity (OL) to short circuit (0.1 ohms or similar).

You may have achieved what you were trying to do by leaving the door open and mechanically triggering the door latch with a screwdriver (to simulate it hitting the door striker on the door frame). Just don't forget to unlatch it before you close the door later

 

I saw a "0" then a reading, so took that as zero Ohms then reading Ohms.
Not being too great with electrical components, I did not think to short out the door to meet the car think it was closed. I wouldn't know how to do that without probably catching the car on fire, anyway lol
In any case, I will continue to monitor and see what happens. If no issues I might swap the old computer back in to re-test. Then connections were solid with no issues that I could see on any of the plugs but I have read that they seem to basically have internal components melt. Maybe I will open up the original and take a look.

Thanks, again, for your help. I have cataloged all this information for future use.